to convex or not to convex...that is the question?

rabbivj

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So ever since getting my Large Inkosi, ive been debating on re-profiling it on the wicked edge @ 40 deg inc as is my usual angle...Im just curious out there, do any of yall keep the convex factory edge or not? and if not, what angle do you prefer sharpening the blade at?
 
I always re-profile to 20 per side. Much easier to maintain and keep sharp on a sharpmaker for years to come while also minimizing steel loss. Convex for fixed blades, kitchen knives and wood carvers for me.
 
I normally reprofile to 16 / 17 degrees per side without micro bevel, and use sharpmaker 20 dps side to touch up and to form the micro bevel and over time it will become 20 dps. It's a much better slicer at 16 / 17 dps.


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I always use a sharpie with angle cube and match the approximate factory bevel. Then go 8 degrees more for a micro. Ive seen factory bevels range from 22 to 28 degrees per side. If you limit yourself to a set angle you could end up with a large main bevel which imo isnt very attractive.

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I like a convex edge in general, so I always keep a convex edge on my CRKs. I only have a couple knives that have flat edges.
 
I always re-profile to 20 per side. Much easier to maintain and keep sharp on a sharpmaker for years to come while also minimizing steel loss. Convex for fixed blades, kitchen knives and wood carvers for me.

I normally reprofile to 16 / 17 degrees per side without micro bevel, and use sharpmaker 20 dps side to touch up and to form the micro bevel and over time it will become 20 dps. It's a much better slicer at 16 / 17 dps.


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This is typically what I choose. I don't actually re-profile it until in desperate need of sharpening. Usually just free hand with the Sharp Maker UF rod and strop until it gets chipped or beyond..
 
so i just sharpened my inkosi to 18 dps with a 20 dps microbevel using the ceramics and strops. I also have a sharpmaker, so with that being said, can i use the sharpmaker to maintain the micro-bevel and if so what is the best way to do it? I have the coarse, fine and ultrafine stones.
 
I like mine better without the convex. If the stock were thinner I would convex. But my 21 got v ground and will stay that way.
 
I have put both types of edges on my CRKs, and don't see much actual real life difference between them. At this point I have gotten into the habit of putting an edge on all my knives that is about 17-18 degrees(depends on my hands that day lol) and just using a loaded strop to maintain the edge.
 
This is typically what I choose. I don't actually re-profile it until in desperate need of sharpening. Usually just free hand with the Sharp Maker UF rod and strop until it gets chipped or beyond..

Yes, you can maintain that microbevel now for years. The best way to do it often depends on the condition of the edge, the amount you let it dull will determine what approach you'll need. When i feel the edge start to drop off or struggle on paper i give it a few light passes on the fine or ultra fine, usually brings it back to shaving within seconds. But, if if you do this for a very long time it's sometimes good to give it some passes on a the more coarse rods, this helps to knock off any tired and stressed steel or remove a stubborn soft bur that keeps rolling from side to side. Then just lightly refine the microbevel again working up to the finer rods. Everyone will have their own methods and they all usually work, but for me this has personally worked perfectly for years.
 
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