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Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by TheOTBalisong, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. TheOTBalisong

    TheOTBalisong

    288
    Jun 28, 2012
    I'm diving into Knife making next week. Any last tips you guys can provide?

    I'm making a very simple Bushcraft, Drop Point, Scandinavian Grind.
    I'm using simple hand tools such as Files and Sheets of sandpaper.

    Wish me luck.
     
  2. chad2

    chad2

    999
    Sep 2, 2011
    Hand sanding is your friend. Do not rush any prosses it is easier to take material away, putting it back on is a hole other subject lol

    Take your time and pay attention to detail.

    Remember drill all holes before heat treating it sounds stupid but i was so eiger to finish my first three knives that i kept forgetting to drill any handle holes before heat treating and finally decided to take the time to write out the knife making prosses and check off each step as i went. It is an easy thing to forget because alot of ppl think that the handle is the last thing that you do but in all reality it is one of the first things.

    Grind shape of blade out

    Clean blade shape up

    Cut handle blocks out fit to handle so that there is enough material on all sides of the handle to work with.

    Clamp handle material to handle

    Drill holes through material and steel

    Rough grind handle to shape

    Finish blade grinding/ contouring

    Heat treat

    Finish handle grinding and sanding

    Finish blade sanding

    Screw, pin, and glue handles to finished knife

    Clean glue off with wd40 before it drys if pinning and gluing
     
  3. TheOTBalisong

    TheOTBalisong

    288
    Jun 28, 2012
    Thank you for all the helpful information :)
     
  4. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
  5. TheOTBalisong

    TheOTBalisong

    288
    Jun 28, 2012
  6. crimsonfalcon07

    crimsonfalcon07

    Dec 27, 2010
    Another thing I didn't know when I started was that you need to chamfer any holes you drill prior to heat treat, and you don't want to take the edge down too far prior to heat treat because it can warp.
     
  7. TheOTBalisong

    TheOTBalisong

    288
    Jun 28, 2012
    I'm sorry if I sound stupid, but what exactly did you mean by "chamfer," and I was told to take it down to about a nickel's thickness.
     
  8. 12345678910

    12345678910

    Jul 13, 2009
    Chamfer holes also = countersink you can search that.


    Especially if you are doing this all by hand, a nickel is VERY thick.
    measuring US coins I haven't that much US coin about.

    Quarters
    .066
    .070

    Average .068


    Nickels
    Haven't got one, so I used Canadian Nickels - close enough
    .069
    .071
    .071
    .071
    .072
    Average .071


    penny
    .057
    .063
    .060
    .058
    .061

    average .060

    Dimes
    .057
    .055
    .053
    .056
    .054

    Average .055


    The usual recommendation.
    is a dime's thickness, but this depends on the steel used and heat treat
    and cutting geometry
    Thin will slice and thick will splat

    I say that even a dime is way too thick if using hand tools
    It will take a long time to hand sand that hardened blade down to thin after heat treating.

    If you're using a carbon steel and heat treating in fire, you need to leave material to grind off to lose the outer layer of decarb where carbon is lost to fire scale.
    If you're using a stainless that is vacuum heat treated, you can go to final thickness and just finish at fine grits.
     
  9. Darrin Sanders

    Darrin Sanders Knifemaker Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    May 6, 2009
    Cut up all your credit cards and take your name off of your checking account.:p If you don't all your extra money will be spent on knifemaking tools and supplies.:D Just kidding, welcome to the addiction. As far as edge thickness you're gonna want to go as thin as possible when using hand tools only. I suggest .025"-.030" if you have access to calipers. If you don't then use a #70 drill bit which is .028" as a guideline. If you're using high alloy steel such as stainless or CPM you can go even thinner. Just dive in and have fun. You'll make plenty of mistakes, just learn from them and try not to make the same one twice. Each knife will be better than the last. Remember that no matter how bad they look 99% will still make a good usable tool. If you don't have access to heat treating I'll be glad to do your first one for free. This forum is a wealth of info., I'm pretty sure someone here will have an answer for just about any question you may have. Don't forget to show us some pics.:thumbup:
     
  10. TheOTBalisong

    TheOTBalisong

    288
    Jun 28, 2012
    Wow, for free? To be honest Mr. sanders I was about to send my knife out to you at a price,
    Thank you for being so generous. For some reason, I couldn't reach your E-mail, so what would be the best way to contact you?

    And Mr.1234, Thank you, as I just realized that I meant to type a dime but accidentally said nickel.
    Thanks for the help.
     
  11. Darrin Sanders

    Darrin Sanders Knifemaker Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    May 6, 2009
    I don't mind doing your first one for free, just pay the return shipping. You can PM me here or call me at the number below.
     
  12. Patrice Lemée

    Patrice Lemée

    Aug 13, 2002
    Spark resistant bathing suit? :D

    Just kidding, real advice is...Turn back now, it might not be too late... :D

    Just kidding, welcome to our addiction!
     
  13. TheOTBalisong

    TheOTBalisong

    288
    Jun 28, 2012
    Thank you Mr. Lemée, I really appreciate that.
     

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