What angle to sharpen new Inkosi on Edge Pro

I use the Sharpmaker and some freehand. And ALWAYS Sharpie the edge on the first few sharpening sessions on a new blade! I've never been attracted to a full-on guided system.
 
GermanyChris said:
With so much caution being expressed about the edge pro and the Sebenza is there a fixed angle sharpener that you guys recommend?

I've reverted to sandpaper on leather since I couldn't get mine sharp on on my flat diamond stone. The sandpaper on leather works fine for now but I don't think it's going to be a long term solution.
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Yes I use the TSPROF Blitz 360 for reprofiling and initial sharpening and it takes all the stress out of sharpening a sebenza it is clamp system and works great with an angle cube. The thing to be aware of is you must use a sharpie to first find your angle and you must use a digital angle cube to discover where you are at and you must recalibrate the cube for each side as the clamp will not give you the same degree on the opposite side. I have seen there be as large as a 3 degree difference. That is not due to the factory grind it is due to the way the clamp can not evenly hold a sebenza.

The TSPROF Kadet also exhibits this behavior but is not as easy as the Blitz to dial in your angle as you have to each time you go to work on the opposite side of the knife. Sounds like a pain but with the blitz it is pretty fast once you get used to it and you can remain super accurate. As with any sharpening system there is a learning curve. I have owned the wicked edge gen 3, the Hapstone 7 which is allot like the Edge Pro and the KME as well as many wet stones and the powered Ken Onion edition with the Griding attachment and the sharpmaker.

The sharpmaker is one of my least favorite devices, the Spyderco Galley V however is one of my favorites those ceramic rods work extremely well with a Sebenza but again there is a learning curve and it is only good for minor touchups that will leave you with a blade that cuts most everything equally.

Out of all the devices I prefer the TSPROF Blitz 360 for knives no larger than 6 inches The Kadet for knives 6 inches and greater.

The Galley V for touchups after cutting a bunch of cardboard, I can give the blade 10 super light passes per side and it cuts magazine paper like a razor all over again. I am talking about S45VN blades and as usual Chris Reeve dials the steel in just right with the heat treatment making it hard enough to work with but not so hard that it will not easily re-hone to a nice sharp edge.

Oddly enough I am finding out that my Chris Reeve large Inkosi in S45VN cuts way better than the Sebenza and holds an edge a bit longer. I wonder if the factory grind is at a lower degree than the sebenza as I have never had to do anything other than hone the Inkosi on the Galley V.

The Sebenza 31 in S45VN was purchased from a Chris Reeve Authorized Dealer and came in as brand new but was very surprisingly dull. The Sebenza was at 22.5 degrees from the factory I took it down to 22.0 degrees but am soon to bring it down another .5 degrees.

I have found the best way to control bevel width is to reprofile a little bit at a time trying to drop a 22.5 degree initial geometry down to 15 degrees is not a 7.5 degree fight I want to take on all at once. .5 to 1.0 degrees is far easier and more controllable.
 
Has anyone used the KME system with the convex sharpening rod? I would think that helps keep the convex factory like edge which helps keep the stability. I have the KME system just haven’t gotten the convex rod as of yet. Considering it but would hate to experiment on my new and pricey CRK to be honest.
 
I've used it but not on a CRK. It definitely creates a convex edge, although it may not exactly match the geometry of the factory edge. Overall it's a slower process because you have to allow the stone to run its full length over the edge. You can't use the sawing motion that you'd employ with the flat stones.
 
Modernflame said:
I've used it but not on a CRK. It definitely creates a convex edge, although it may not exactly match the geometry of the factory edge. Overall it's a slower process because you have to allow the stone to run its full length over the edge. You can't use the sawing motion that you'd employ with the flat stones.
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Is the best option then to sharpen by hand on a wet stone? Or use something like a Ken Onion belt sharpener?
 
I'm afraid I can't answer that. I don't freehand sharpen and I don't own the work sharp. I prefer V edges anyway, so my CRKs get reprofiled, usually on the wicked edge.
 
I found a video on how to sharpen a convex edge on the KME system which I have. Would just need to by the convex rod and the stop collar I guess. If I do, I’ll try it out on some cheaper knife and reprofile the v edge perhaps. I’m still not great at using that system but it does work really well once you get hang of it.
 
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