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    How To Finish & Give Micarta/G-10/TeroTuf the "Wet" Look

    Thank you, I appreciate it. G10 will polish much better than canvas or linen micarta since it's glass not cloth. Put some Windex on a piece of glass and then som on your pants and see which one takes the best shine :) Make sure to get all the scratches out from the previous grit as you...
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    EDC XIII Which knife or knives are you carrying today?

    Made an ultra light kydex (0.03" thick, and 0.125" rivets) neck sheath for the mini bugout. Rides easy.
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    How To Finish & Give Micarta/G-10/TeroTuf the "Wet" Look

    The quality of micarta really matters too. This I got from Trugrit and it's great to work with. I have bought some of the artisan "micarta" too and it's been horrible to work with. Whole threads coming out when sawing and it won't polish at all. Never again. 12-1500 grit then two different...
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    What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

    Getting away boar hunting for a few days, so decided to put other things on hold and throw together a couple of knives for this trip. One proper belt knife for gutting and skinning in 3.3 mm AEB-L, OAL 210 mm. And one small neck/pocket carry in 2mm 14c28n, 170 mm OAL. Both have slightly...
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    What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

    One of these is 200 euros at the hardwstore. It will lift and move it.
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    Cracked blade from peening - 14C28N?

    LoL no that's before straightening!!
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    Cracked blade from peening - 14C28N?

    I also use an anvil, and get better results now compared to when I used a piece of mild steel ,that was a bit off in the surface too. You can get a new 20 kg Kanca anvil on amazon.de for good money. It's what I have. I use a fairly rounded carbide tip, stuck in a hammer. I never hammer hard...
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    Paid heat treatment in the EU

    SI Knives and Mix Knives in Sweden coordinate heat treatment for knife makers in batches. You can also use Härdservice in Halmstad, Sweden, without the middle hand.
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    Old bandsaw repair options?

    Yes it's a metal band saw. I was only talking about those. Wood cutting saws typically run higher speeds and have more hp. Mine runs 30-90 m/min. I have it set on 30 always and use 18 tpi blades. For steel, micarta, g10. I don't use any wood in the shop.
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    Old bandsaw repair options?

    It's not all in the horse power. For example among floor standing industrial versions of smaller size (310 mm / 12" throat depth) 1/2 and sometimes 1 hp is most common. Mine has 360 mm depth and uses 2900 mm long blades, has a 1 hp motor and no issues cutting thick stuff. Smaller portable...
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    Old bandsaw repair options?

    Fix her up with a new 3 phase motor. Vfd is good when cutting g10 and micarta, which like lower speed than wood.
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    Cracked blade from peening - 14C28N?

    Oh the warping will continue... I would recomend building a straightening hammer.
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    What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

    In my experience they don't need a whole lot of breaking in. A minute or two. I find it is important to have 100% finish before using them to get it nice. Eg a complete 400 grit finish with no scratches left from the previous grit, then 400 grit cork.
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    What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

    A30 is a fine finish. From there I would go with grey (very fine) Scotchbrite I think. Have you tried cork belts yet? They also give a good finish and do some blending. But they keep the transitions crisper!
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    What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

    I'm still playing around with different belt finishes trying to decide which one I like best and where to stop. I have to say a clean 220 followed by green/blue Scotchbrite leaves a good user finish. Too bad them belts mess up the transitions a bit though, especially on thin high grinds.
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    Cracked blade from peening - 14C28N?

    I am not aiming this at you personally FredyCro, but I do think there is some exaggeration in this community in chasing highest possible hardness, and thinnest possible geometry. A lot if the time, it may just not be very useful/practical.
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    Cracked blade from peening - 14C28N?

    14C28N performs very well. And extremely well when also considering its silly low price. I have a hard time motivating buying another stainless because of this, but do use some RWL-34 as well. 14C28N is really good at 61 Hrc.
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    Cracked blade from peening - 14C28N?

    I changed from more pointy chisel to a rounded point in a hammer. It gives more control, less deep marks to grind out. Works great. And I imagine it stresses the steel less too.
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