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You can simply clamp the blade in a heavy vise (use smooth jaws!) and weld or braze to your heart's content. Clamp it where the tang starts.
Leave it alone.
If the kids are smart, they'll only cut themselves once.
Knifemaking.com has lots of nice blades.
To properly paint a knife with Cerakote, or to apply any finish-requires the knife to be disassembled and reassembled.
Increase the size of your drive pulley.
Scrub the handle with a thick paste made of Dawn, baking soda and a little water. Use your fingers and scrub it well.
Or, use a dab of Simichrome...
Paste wax- no olive oil.
Wax everything heavily. Store the knife out of the sheath.
Vises aren't used for tightening peened pins.
They should be further peened with a small hammer and very light taps.
Balsa is so soft, you will see little abrasion by anything you put on it.
I have engraved blade spines with a New Hermes pantograph.
If you want to preserve your stag properly, leave the oils off of it. Stag does not contain oil naturally and if the Maker thought it needed it-it...
Where's 'em pitchers??
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Depends on what you are soldering it to-
If carbon steel, tix, lead, silver-bearing solder, or silver braze.
If stainless, silver-bearing, or...
The larger wheels have a faster surface area, but are easier to bog down.
Anything larger than 6" will be taller than the machine (see current buff!)
Depends on what you are soldering TO.
Carbon steel: Tix solder, lead solder, silver-bearing solder, or silver braze.
Remove the loose buff. Buy Baldor left and right tapered spindles for the machine. These allow you to rapidly change wheels by simply "screwing"...
Even a belt with NO grit would quickly wear the ink off of the blade. Something else is going on.