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What is the rated grit for the Spyderco Ultra-Fine ceramic stone, and would it be suitable for sharpening a straight razor?
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A Question About the Spyderco Stones
- Thread starter warden41272
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No on the straight razor, use a strop.
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I've got strops, but occasionally (about once a year, maybe) you need to put the razor to stone and sharpen it.
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I was under the impression that there are different abrasive grades in regards to the paste used for strops.
I've got the ultra-fine triangle stones and I can't imagine using them for a straight razor. Maybe one of the benchstones, but I still think a strop is the way to go due to the extreme acuteness of the grind.
I've got the ultra-fine triangle stones and I can't imagine using them for a straight razor. Maybe one of the benchstones, but I still think a strop is the way to go due to the extreme acuteness of the grind.
Orthagonal I have to slightly but respectfully disagree with you. The ultra-fine 302 Benchstone has done great on 2 of my Straight razors. Like the one brother said you do actually have to hone them on occasions. Now don't get me wrong because I am also a strong believer in stroping. I strop just about every knife I use.
Since I have had my Calypso Jr. With ZDP-189 the only sharpening I do to it is occasionally hit it lightly with the ultra-fine stone in my 204 Sharpmaker kit but I strop it more than anything and I mean to tell you that strop with just a trace of compound in it gets that knife scary sharp. I have even seen on the booklet that comes with the 204 Sharpmaker where Sal shows just how to sharpen a straight razor.
A lot of the old Straight razors even came with a really fine hone. Yep they have to be fine tuned periodically.
Since I have had my Calypso Jr. With ZDP-189 the only sharpening I do to it is occasionally hit it lightly with the ultra-fine stone in my 204 Sharpmaker kit but I strop it more than anything and I mean to tell you that strop with just a trace of compound in it gets that knife scary sharp. I have even seen on the booklet that comes with the 204 Sharpmaker where Sal shows just how to sharpen a straight razor.
A lot of the old Straight razors even came with a really fine hone. Yep they have to be fine tuned periodically.
The UF stones are capable of being used for honing a straight razor. The actual grit of the stone is always an elusive number to find out -- I think 4-6K might be in the right range.
I will warn you, though, that I've read reports that the stones must be lapped to ensure they're flat. One individual said that he chipped a blade on a stone that wasn't lapped.
I managed to use the UF sticks with the Sharpmaker, like in the instructions & video, without much problem.
I will warn you, though, that I've read reports that the stones must be lapped to ensure they're flat. One individual said that he chipped a blade on a stone that wasn't lapped.
I managed to use the UF sticks with the Sharpmaker, like in the instructions & video, without much problem.
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I'm not hip on laying a razor flat on the triangle stones. I've had less than satisfying results doing it. Lack of skill, whatever.
With benchstones, I've had better luck with very acute angles.
I also agree with the lapping to achieve flatness. My triangle extra fines were not flat when new (still aren't, for that matter).
I have two strops I made up, with two different grits of paste, for achieving "super sharp" edges or working with some knives that seem to only respond well to stropping (why? - got me).
With benchstones, I've had better luck with very acute angles.
I also agree with the lapping to achieve flatness. My triangle extra fines were not flat when new (still aren't, for that matter).
I have two strops I made up, with two different grits of paste, for achieving "super sharp" edges or working with some knives that seem to only respond well to stropping (why? - got me).
It's probably not the best method, but it worked in a pinch before I had other suitable hones.
Just for clarity, I used the flat sides of the stones & had them inserted into the recesses on the bottom of the Sharpmaker with the cover on -- that made it a fairly steady platform.
Just for clarity, I used the flat sides of the stones & had them inserted into the recesses on the bottom of the Sharpmaker with the cover on -- that made it a fairly steady platform.