Any thoughts on using other steel?

B

benchmadebob

Joined
May 12, 2008
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i like 1095 but there are better steels out there have you guys thought about like a a2 or 01 And do you guys think that the other steels would hold a edge better than 1095?
 
"Better" is a subjective word. We are exploring the potential of some different steels but then again, it all depends on the use of the knife and what someone likes in a steel. There are those that say 1095 is as good as anything else for certain knives. Others say S30V, others say 154CM, others say D2, O1...the list goes on and on.
 
R.A.T. said:
"Better" is a subjective word. We are exploring the potential of some different steels but then again, it all depends on the use of the knife and what someone likes in a steel. There are those that say 1095 is as good as anything else for certain knives. Others say S30V, others say 154CM, others say D2, O1...the list goes on and on.
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Exactly right. I personally think it don't come any better than 1095 even though I have knives of s30v,154cm,d2 etc,etc,ad nauseum. It probably depends more on the personal preference of the individual than the use of the knife, although it shouldn't:D
 
soccergod04 said:
If you were to do the folder in S30V that'd be pretty cool. Just sayin...
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I know it depends on heat treat and edge geometry, but my S30V blades have all been prone to chipping in real world, hard use. I trust the RAT folks to use the most appropriate steels for the knives they design for the purposes they intend :).
Of course, if you are stuck on one path, you might never look at where other paths might lead. But I bet they have considered other steels.
 
Blade steels don't really matter (flame suit on) unless you are trying to do something that requires specific properties.

For instance, it'd be nice if/when the RC RTAK comes out for it to be in 5160 spring steel (IMO the properties of spring steel excel for longer blades) with a differential heat treat.
 
dogrunner said:
Of course, if you are stuck on one path, you might never look at where other paths might lead.
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That's about as true of statement ever made here. And something RC never wants to do.
 
I have always liked 1095. It's a good cutlery steel, and with the right heat treat it works for me. I like A2, 5160, and in stainless 12C27 and 420HC. There are more expensive steels that may be tougher and harder, but these offer ease of sharpening, good toughness, reasonable price, and good edge retention. The 12C27 used in Moras, the Gerber LMF2, some Kershaws, and some Bark Rivers performs comparably to a good carbon steel with the added benefit of better corrosion resistance.
Buck's 420HC works fine for me as well. I am not fanatical about edge retention because I know how to sharpen a knife. The new super steels are very good, but they are costly and hard to sharpen. Just my 2 cents.
 
Actually, INFI is one of the expensive super steels that is not hard to sharpen, but I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for it in the RAT Cutlery line. :D
 
I really enjoy 1095, very good qualities when done right... and we all know that Rowen do it right!
 
Horn Dog said:
Actually, INFI is one of the expensive super steels that is not hard to sharpen, but I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for it in the RAT Cutlery line. :D
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I think CPM-M4 can give INFI a run for its money. That would be an awesome steel for RAT to use!
 
I don't have a problem with most steels specially when heat treated correctly. Though I do tend to prefer simple Carbon steels when I can get them. If someone like RAT can make great knives out of Simple Carbon steels for good prices with good heat treats I'm all for it. 5160, 1095, 52100 are all good to me. :)

Heber
 
From the pictures I've seen posted, it seems like the steel R.A.T. uses is working just fine :)

No RAT for me yet, so I can't speak from personal experience, but when the Izula hits the stands I'll have one over-nighted here.
 
I love 1095, it works great, especially where I am in the northeastern US. I've done some very stupid stuff with a 1095 RAT 7, and I am always amazed that it hasn't broken.

I've always wanted to know though, why 1095 in the jungle. Seems too wet of a place for non stailess. Obviously it has been well tested in those conditions, but how much work does it take to keep the rust away?
 
If you wipe your blade off after usage or use protective oils they last a long time, even stainless steels rusts but a good thing about carbon steels is the edge retenion and ease to sharpen.
 
That's true. I've never been to a place that wet. If I end up going, I'm not sure what steel I would take. I know I'm not going to re-oil after every use during the day, and I'm not sure what the humidity would do to the edge.
 
Where I live isn't technically jungle, but it is tropical, and about 10 miles or so from the Atlantic. So, a very wet, salt water environment.

I keep a piece of silicone cloth with me and wipe my blades down after a day of use and never had a rust problem. I certainly wouldn't use a non-stainless knife at the beach or as a dive knife, though.
 
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