anybody here into straight-razors?

Daniel Koster

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
20,978
I'm considering making some.....:D :eek: :p



something along these lines....;)


razor.jpg




Would be a simple friction folder...should be inexpensive!!

:thumbup:



Any suggestions for materials you'd like to see?

Forged finish ok?

Length, width, thickness, etc...


And it would, of course, have a nice convex edge. :D ;)


How much would you pay for one?


Lotsa questions....keep me motivated...and we'll see one soon!

Thanks!

Dan
 
I've been waiting for someone on this board to make a custom straight razor!

My dream would either be 1095 (just for old school, no-nonsense ass-kicking hardness) paired with either Ti or stabilized wood scales, or one of the new super-steels (ZDP189, S90V, etc) with Ti or Carbon Fiber scales. Not sure if the "super steels" even apply, since they have huge carbides, as I recall, and that means they won't form as nice an edge... still sounds awesome!
 
I like how you think, Lucky Bob! :D :thumbup:



The steel needs to be something that is easily polished. 1095 would be a good choice. I'm also wondering about 13C26 - a fine-grain high-carbon stainless. But I need to do some testing with it first.


Would you go for thin stainless scales w/stab. wood on top?
 
YES, would love to see a straight razor.

Also for simple carbon steels 1095, W1 The wider the better. Micarta handles for toughness (nothing against exotic woods of course) to keep price down.

Something that I would like to see is maybe a forward choil of sorts like on a gaucho knife where the thumb could "choke up" on. Dunno if you know what I mean. But it would look neat. Of course a plain jane is always nice.

As for pricing, I wouldnt even know what to suggest for a custom. A bare bones Dovo could be found for under $50.
 
Yes, Yes, Yes! Do it! Ti or G-10 for slabs. I'd suggest a short (2" +) version and a long (4"+) version. I also like the idea of a choil on this, but maybe as a curved element of the stem that is the pivot point. I'm not too sure about steel, but I sure trust your judgement.
 
Dan, I would definitely be interested in a custom razor (maybe even two, one for a gift to my barber who gave me my first straight razor cut a couple of weeks ago). Now I need to learn how to give myself a straight razor cut as I don't fully trust my wife to do it for me (too much for her to gain <grin>).

Oh, btw, did you receive my email about my son's sheath and if so do you have an answer for me? Inquiring minds wish to know! Cya.....

Jack
 
While wider is generally nice it can reduce the rigidness/stability of the edge. I would imagine you've read the Dovo descriptions:
http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/sharpen/instrazor.html

Generally I have found straight razors not too expensive at antique malls, flea markets, and thrift stores. You could get some to experiment with how different configurations work. You need a fine-grained steel that will respond well to stropping. I don't think that most of the powdered metal alloys with micron-plus sized grain structures would work. The edges are so thin and the final edge angle is so accute that the carbides would fall out. You may want to look for an alloy that is like 13C26, but is maybe vacuum remelted or purified through some other steps. You may want to look for an alloy that the vendor supplies as razor stock. Since modern safety razors use extremely thin stock you would not actually get the razor stock itself, but get something from the same manufacturer.

For a non-stainless you might want to try 1084 if you can find a high quality source.
 
Ooooo, good idea! These would be sweet! I like the idea of one in 13C26 or another fine grained stainless over a carbon steel. Also, stabilized California Buckeye Burl handles with white liners would be really cool!
 
Yeah, I just came back to add that 12C27 (or is it 26? I can never keep them separate in my head) would be a much better idea for stainless than any of the super-steels I mentioned.

Also, yeah, micarta/G10 might be a better/cheaper option than stabilized wood.
 
My grandfather shaves everyday with the same straight razor his father gave him. Of course, my grandfather also eats glass and shits pure molten iron. I've never had the pills to even try straight razor shaving. Hey Dan, can you coat the blade in that bad ass copper fleck finish?
 
dan...i don't know alot about straight razors but i think a nice carbon steel like 1095 would be wicked....as for the handle....i would say stainless steel handle....some nice burled wood maybe.....as for price i would think under 140....ryan
 
1095 would keep costs down...as would micarta/G10. I like the idea of some simple G10 frames (no liners)...with countersunk screws to keep things "together".

Simple rounding of the edges...bead-blast the G10 for texture...make a nice handle...and available in an array of colors! ;)
 
Just bill me for one, I'll take it.

I don't know a lot about steels so I trust that an experienced knifemaker would make a good choice.

As far as scales go I have to say that synthetic is the way to go. I like the look of translucent acrylic, but g10 or micarta would be great also, g11 would be cool to if you could swing that for I'd appreciate it.
 
I think a polished finish would be better than forged or copper-coated. If you were going to actually use it, then a polished finish would be easier to clean up. If you wanted to make a utility folder in a razor pattern, thicker steel with the rough finish would be interesting. Carbon fiber handle with abalone inlay, if you wanted a fancy handle. Otherwise, simple micarta.
 
I was kidding about the copper finish, although it would look sweet.
 
It would definitely look cool....;)


But would add cost. :(

It is always, of course, an optional add-on. :thumbup:



That said...it would actually be easier to clean...the finish is quite smooth and "sealed"....just warm soapy water...done. A little touch-up now and then on the copper will keep it bright. :thumbup:



Keep the suggestions coming...I'm serious about giving it a shot!
 
The problem with a coating on the razor is that the technique for sharpening involves laying the edge on your hone or strop, so the finish would be gone in no time.
 
I'm short on ideas, but I like what I'm hearing! I say go for it! I'd be interested in one from you. :thumbup: ...Especially with options for different handle material. :)
 
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