Better Slicer... Sebenza Insingo or Inkosi Insingo? Large / Small?

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I really want a wicked slicer, and now that the inkosi insingo is a thing... I am not sure which to get. I want a small and large insingo, I just don't know if I should go Sebenza or Inkosi.

For those who have experienced all these combinations, what do you think?
 
Tim posted on the CRK facebook page that while the blade stock is thicker on the Inkosi, the hollow grind radius is much flatter. The Sebenza has a 10" radius, where the Inkosi has a 20" radius.

The Inkosi blade is also a slightly different design with more belly.

While I don't yet have a Large Insingo Inkosi (which will be rectified as soon as dealers have them in stock!) I would lean towards the Inkosi at least in theory, but like you I would also love to hear some real world experienced people chime in!
 
Tim posted on the CRK facebook page that while the blade stock is thicker on the Inkosi, the hollow grind radius is much flatter. The Sebenza has a 10" radius, where the Inkosi has a 20" radius.

The Inkosi blade is also a slightly different design with more belly.

While I don't yet have a Large Insingo Inkosi (which will be rectified as soon as dealers have them in stock!) I would lean towards the Inkosi at least in theory, but like you I would also love to hear some real world experienced people chime in!

Yeah, I am definitely interested in the difference. I'm not sure if I want an Inkosi Insingo or Sebenza Insingo..
 
Don't have an Inkosi Insingo yet, but for my experience the Large (drop point) Inkosi is at least as good if not better at most slicing tasks as the smaller hollow grind radius Seb21, in spite of the thicker stock. I definitely want a SMII.
 
Yeah, I am definitely interested in the difference. I'm not sure if I want an Inkosi Insingo or Sebenza Insingo..

Consider the difference between the two knives in terms of build difference. Do you like the bushing system over the adjustable pivot. Do you like the ceramic ball lock face on the Inkosi. The Inkosi comes standard with duel thumb lugs, has a floating stop pin, doesn't have the Sebenza lanyard hole.
So, there are some things to consider on which one you prefer. Personally, I don't use my CRK's because they are great slicers.
The best slicer I've found is a thin stock blade, FFG with a near zero edge fixed blade.
 
Consider the difference between the two knives in terms of build difference. Do you like the bushing system over the adjustable pivot. Do you like the ceramic ball lock face on the Inkosi. The Inkosi comes standard with duel thumb lugs, has a floating stop pin, doesn't have the Sebenza lanyard hole.
So, there are some things to consider on which one you prefer. Personally, I don't use my CRK's because they are great slicers.
The best slicer I've found is a thin stock blade, FFG with a near zero edge fixed blade.


I wish I could get the following...

-Sebenza frame & hardware (no floating stop pin) but with a ceramic lock interface
-Inkosi blade grind with Sebenza blade thickness
 
The Inkosi stop pin does not float. It is secured on the lock side and precision fit into the presentation side scale where it acts as a guide during reassembly.
 
You asked about large vs small size knife. Note that the smalls have a closed length of a hair less than 4". That's too short for me to use effectively. The small is okay until I want to close the blade. In that case, in order to depress the lock-blade with my thumb, I have to slide the knife forward in my hand. Once I slide it forward, the small tries to fall forward out of my hand.
So, it makes sense that I carry a large CRK...Sebbie or Zaan.
 
No need to be sorry. Just wanted to clear that up. The Inkosi design is so simple it's brilliant and extremely strong in the pivot, stop pin, lock area.
 
What are you slicing and where are you slicing it? My CRK Sikayo's are actually wicked slicers.
 
Now that they've been out for a bit. Anyone else care to share their observations and/or real world feelings on this subject.
 
I actually own a 21 and inkosi Insingo. Have used it in the kitchen, office, garden etc(no hard use)
Truly, l cannot tell difference in slicing abilities. Its a different knife overal, as described above. Especially for kitchen uses llike my insingos(both of them)
 
I know this has been discussed many times over, but I still can't get over the Inkosi lacking a pivot bushing. I really don't want to need to loctite my knives every time I take apart to clean nor do I want to fiddle with the adjustment tightness. I'm so OCD that it would easily add 20 minutes to each cleaning session as I thought "no, no, it should be 1/4 turn tighter... no, now it needs 1/4 turn looser..."
 
I know this has been discussed many times over, but I still can't get over the Inkosi lacking a pivot bushing. I really don't want to need to loctite my knives every time I take apart to clean nor do I want to fiddle with the adjustment tightness. I'm so OCD that it would easily add 20 minutes to each cleaning session as I thought "no, no, it should be 1/4 turn tighter... no, now it needs 1/4 turn looser..."
No harm in trying an Inkosi to find out if your concerns are justified. I used to take the same position as you have just stated. I now carry a Large Inkosi the most of any other knife.

As to the slicing, I've recently measured the width right behind the secondary (edge) bevel of a number of my really good slicers, and my Large Inkosi is among the thinnest of them, actually tied with my CKF Ratata (which is my "sliciest" folder). My LI is narrower than any of my Sebbie's right behind the edge.
 
I know this has been discussed many times over, but I still can't get over the Inkosi lacking a pivot bushing. I really don't want to need to loctite my knives every time I take apart to clean nor do I want to fiddle with the adjustment tightness. I'm so OCD that it would easily add 20 minutes to each cleaning session as I thought "no, no, it should be 1/4 turn tighter... no, now it needs 1/4 turn looser..."
Many inkosis require no loctite at all. I generally don't loctite my inkosis, umnumzaans nor my old 25. It depends on the model. Also, all three of those mentioned seem to go a lot longer than sebenzas before they need to be taken down unless you are in a particularly grimy environment.
 
blanco112 blanco112 I’d be pleased if my Inkosi after it’s first cleaning does the same. I also need to do my ‘Zaan and would like the same result.

Is there a trick to breaking the locktight on a CRK? Any advise?
 
blanco112 blanco112 I’d be pleased if my Inkosi after it’s first cleaning does the same. I also need to do my ‘Zaan and would like the same result.

Is there a trick to breaking the locktight on a CRK? Any advise?
It takes almost no effort at all. I believe they use the purple at the factory that they ship it with. You probably won't even notice it's got loctite. When you take it apart just take a small brush to the loctite and try and get it off. Then close it back up and use it for a while. You'll know if you need loctite if after a bit you see the knife off center. If you don't want to worry about it you could always just add the loctite to be sure (a tiny amount, like the smallest drop you can manage). I don't loctite because I like to adjust the pivot tension after a few days once the grease has moved around.
 
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