Buff Preparation

Joined
Apr 19, 1999
Messages
3,560
I had the occasion a couple of days ago to retire a buff and replace it with a new set of 4 buffs, I use 1/4" X 18" circular sewn buffs with 1/2" spacing between rows of stitches. As soon as the buffs broke in I began to notice a great deal of flex in the new stacked buff. It seemed curious to me but today I realized that I hadn't glued the four individual buffs together with my Lepages wood glue as usual. The glue is setting overnight to be ready for tomorrow.

It is surprising how you can do something for years and the one time that you don't do it you can scratch your head for hours trying to figure out what is different.

Oh by the way the glue, while stiffening a stack of thin buffs, also increases the buff life by reducing flex. The stiffer buff is also safer to work with.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com




[This message has been edited by george tichbourne (edited 03-03-2001).]
 
George, have you ever used those expensive hard felt wheels???

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Take care!! Michael
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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
George, how far out toward the working edges does the glue go? This sounds like a great idea and one that I will use. I know what you mean about not remembering steps you have taken many times before.

Just ruined a great looking, tapered tang, gut hook skinner during heat treat. Forgot to naturalize the annealed L-6 before hardening. Sure hate to hear that "Ping" after all that work. Guess I can either start writing all this stuff down, or just hang the occassional disaster above the bench, that should do it. Thanks for the tip. Terry

[This message has been edited by Blind Dog (edited 03-04-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Blind Dog (edited 03-04-2001).]
 
I have tried the felt wheels in a couple of hardnesses but all had the bad habit of glazing. Glazed wheels do not hold compound and as we all know no compound/no polishing.

The glue is spread evenly on the surface but I prefer to put a little extra near the center to harden up the hole. The glue itself doesn't seem to mark pieces being polished.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com


 
Glazing of all buffing wheels is a problem. I use a board full of nails (short!) and a star wheel to clean up the buffer. The star wheel is what you use to flatten a grinding stone.
Has anyone else tried this?
Inventively, Lynn
 
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