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bush knife sharpening question
- Thread starter wasp
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2007
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- 955
Read the other thread here about sharpeningn tips for scandi grinds. I would personally not use the Sharpmaker, you may end up putting a secondary grind on it. Check out the video on the other thread, it is very easy. I think sharpening a scandi grind on a stone is easier than using the Sharpmaker anyway. Good luck!!!
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
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- 20,978
I think if you used the flat sides of the triangle hones only...should be ok. Just be sure to not put a secondary bevel on it.
If you put the Sharpmaker at 40 degrees and try to sharpen on it...you'll definitely put a microbevel on it.
I set the knife at 12.5 degrees per side (25 degrees overall).
Read up on the thread abiggs mentioned here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=521094
:thumbup:
If you put the Sharpmaker at 40 degrees and try to sharpen on it...you'll definitely put a microbevel on it.
I set the knife at 12.5 degrees per side (25 degrees overall).
Read up on the thread abiggs mentioned here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=521094
:thumbup:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2007
- Messages
- 3,121
just expanding on the other thread, this video is great! http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sharptutoj1.flv
thanks saxon.
thanks saxon.
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
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- 2,437
It would be better if you used one of the horizontal stone positions, you can use it like a benchstone, but as cautioned by Dan, no mirobevels...
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
If you sharpen it with a Sharpmaker you are going to have to slightly microbevel the blade. The finish on the blade bevel is 120 grit. It would take you days of honing with a Sharpmaker ceramic hone to cut through that surface finish if you honed flat on the bevel. You might conceivably be able to hone "flat" on the bevel and actually work the edge if you honed along the edge rather than the flat of the triangular honing rods. That might be able to get down into the grooves of the bevel finish somewhat.
I think your best bet is to ignore all of the purists who say to not microbevel the edge and just go ahead and hone using the flats of the rods in the 30-degree slots (15 degrees per side) in the Sharpmaker. This is only slightly higher than the 12.5 degrees of the primary bevels. Due to some slight flexing of the apex of the edge you won't even see a full 2.5 degree change in angle between the microbevel and the primary grind. If you see the microbevel at all it will probably look more like 14 degrees and just appear as a polished finish to the scandi grind.
I think your best bet is to ignore all of the purists who say to not microbevel the edge and just go ahead and hone using the flats of the rods in the 30-degree slots (15 degrees per side) in the Sharpmaker. This is only slightly higher than the 12.5 degrees of the primary bevels. Due to some slight flexing of the apex of the edge you won't even see a full 2.5 degree change in angle between the microbevel and the primary grind. If you see the microbevel at all it will probably look more like 14 degrees and just appear as a polished finish to the scandi grind.