BushMaster tapered tang - pics!

[Daniel Koster]

I've now started the BushMaster Elites finally.....whew!

Here are some teaser pics....


Side view:

view of the underside (tip in the bottom left):

Booty pic:

These taper very nicely....but they are a PAIN to do....don't expect this ever again on any future runs!

So, why do I taper the tang? even though it's already lighter because of being skeletonized?


Here's why:

Blade as-is (standard BushMaster Blank) =

Weighs exactly 6.0 ounces.


Blade with a tapered tang =

Weighs 4.6 ounces.


That's a 25% weight reduction. What is already a fairly light, easy-to-carry knife now becomes an ultralight knife with a fullsize handle and full flat grind from 3/16" oversize CPM3V steel (read: TOUGH).

This is the most Blade-For-Buck you can get. It doesn't get any better than this in terms of Maximizing Function.

The Ironwood handles will just be icing on the cake.

Glue-up starts tomorrow!

Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

2 hrs later.....

3 more tangs done.

Holy Crap....this is tougher than flat grinding Survivors!



Dan

 

[chainring]

It's beautiful.

 

[BARBARIAN-X]

Sweet!!!!

 

[hollowdweller]

Those look great. Sort of regret getting off the list now

 

[Daniel Koster]

Holy Crap....I think I spent nearly the entire day today finishing up these tapered tangs. This is way too much work!




Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

I somehow finished the tapered tangs late last night. I wanted to shoot myself in BOTH feet. I wasn't sure I'd want to get out of bed this morning...but somehow managed it....



I'm sure it'll be worth it for you guys and I'll be able to look back someday and think "Oh....it wasn't really that bad".....

Someday....





Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

Pics for your enjoyment!




I have to use a special jig to do this and yes, I should build my own...but in the meantime, I can use the one at Tom's shop.


Here is a pic of the setup drilling the smaller holes:

And a pic showing the large hole after drilling:

Then I have to flip it over while the handle is still clamped on - in order to counterbore the handles.

So, by this time, you guys are probably wondering "Why all the fuss?".

Look here:

See the angle the handle slab is set at?

Normally, I can just clamp one handle slab to the tang, set it down on the stand and drill right through it. 3 times on a "F" (0.254") drill bit, once with a 3/8" bit.

But if I did that here, the holes drilled from both side would make a wide "V" instead of a straight line.

So, I have to clamp the knife in this jig that holds the knife by the blade ensuring that it's perpendicular to the drill bit and when the 2 slabs come together, the holes align in a straight line.

If that doesn't make sense...then you'll just have to trust me.

The difference is that it takes me about 8 times as long to drill the slabs for each knife.

Anyway....the first 10 are done now....

Have a look:

Will be glued-up today/tomorrow.

:thumbup:

Dan

 

[phm14]

Nice work. Seems like weight is often overlooked, which is OK for collection pieces, but critical if the knife will be carried along with other gear. I look for tapered tangs for balance also, along with good corrosion resistance (154CM or CPM-S30V are favorites) when considering a buy. The taper combined with skeletonization are a winner for me. Mailing list subscribed