Can a molded sheath fit tight?

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
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I mean I molded the top part of the sheath to the somewhat rounded handle of a fix blade. Finished the sheath and it did fit and hold the knife ok. But the molded part is stiff and after a month of use, it does not grip the knife anymore like a flat sheath would. I hope this makes sense. :confused:

Patrice
 
There are so many variables involved with this. Do you have a picture of the sheath in question? That would help very much.

Simple molding of leather does not make a permanent form, leather will soften with time and use. Flex even very stiff leather long enough and it will lose its form. Its best to make the sheath fit tight without molding, then form fit the leather as a finishing touch.

without seeing the sheath its the best advice I can give.
 
Here is a pic:

new_sheath2.jpg


Thanks for your help.

Patrice
 
Patrice, nice looking sheath, from the way the handle looks
it would appear that the handle gets smaller as it goes down to the blade?
No guard to help with retention it seems?

On a sheath like this, I think you are right, wet molding isn't a good retention method
to save this, if it were me, I would glue in a small thin layer of soft deer skin
or elk skin as if you were lining the inside.

What this does is then make it a wedge type fit, the knife will snuggle up against
the springy elk skin and help with retention

See this thread, I had a similar situation;

Shown here

BUT, as I don't make a lot of fixed blade sheaths any longer
some of the other folks might chime in with some other ideas
but in the short run, this might be one thing you could try.
Dry fit it in before gluing of course, you want it snug.

Best of luck!
G2
 
You are right Gary, it tapers down a bit. I will try your idea.
Next one I will change the design and include a strap with snap I think.

Thanks for the good words and help.

Patrice
 
Patrice,
I feel your pain bro ! My buckskin inlaid sheath with "cam" lock welt worked fabulously maybe 20-30 times. All but useless now as the blade quickly sliced the cam off. Ahh these fun lessons. From talking with my mentor (who warned me of the cam style to begin with) on a blade of your style thinning the welt the correct amount will give a nice friction fit on the sides of the blade to aid in retension. I too will be considering the use of a Sam Browne stud on future sheaths that may end up with retension problems.

On a side note, the cam lock welt will work on knives with the correct geometry. My guard was almost even with the cutting edge hence the problem.

Live and learn, Thats my motto at this point -Josh
 
Patrice, try the "Chicago Screw Fix". If you made the welt wide enough, punch a number 7 hole just inside (not touching) the stitching if the uppermost corner of the sheath. Install a chicago screw and tighten it up. This will pull just the very top of the sheath in tighter around the handle of the knife and actually provides some cam action. Just make sure the screw goes through the welt and not the interior of the sheath. The edge of the Chicago screw cap (away from the sheath edge) will exert the pressure that tightens the whole thing up. I've done it a few times and it works like a charm and does not detract from the looks of the sheath. I use the concho cap screws instead of the plain.

Paul
 
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soak the sheath in hot beeswax, then push the knife in and let it cool for several hours. Remove the knife. It will form very well to the knife and have good retention, the knife will snap in like kydex.
 
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