Care, Feeding, Optimization of GB Hatchet?

J

JDMSMBACPA

Joined
May 21, 2003
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I just got a GB Mini-Hatchet and think I will buy a Forest or Hunters Axe, soon. Is there anything I should know about caring for or optimizing these tools that is not in the "Axe Book" that comes with them?

I've seen tips here and there on care for the metal, wood and sheath, but I'd like to pull it together in one place.

For example, someone mentioned using carpenter's glue to protect the inside of the sheath from nicks.

Someone also mentioned maintaining the edge with a mouse pad and emory paper. Does it come with a convex grind, or do some people just put one on?
 
If you're thinking about the Hunter's Axe and plan to use it for regular chopping work, I recommend handling one first. It has a bunch of grip retention grooves ground into the handle. They undoubtedly help a lot when butchering a bloody, fatty animal. However, you might like the smooth handle of the Small Forest Axe better for regular chopping. Furthermore, you can't do even light hammering (such as tent stakes) with the rounded poll on the Hunter's model. [Note that you shouldn't do any serious hammering with either model, as Gransfors warns in the Axe Book.]
 
Thanks!

Got the mini in the mail today. Nice little tool, but mine is not as sharp as some people's out of the box--doesn't grab my fingerprints when I gently touch the edge. No worries, I have the mouse pad and sand paper at home to touch it up.
 
I would not use most glues to protect the inside of the sheath. Most household/carpenters glues that I have seen tend to absorb moisture and promote rust. An awful lot of two component adhesives like epoxy have corrosive hardening solutions. You need to do a really good mixing job and be sure there is no corrosive solvent or catalyst left around when you are done. RTV silicone adhesive can be good when it is fully cured and out-gassed, but before then it can release vinegar which is corrosive. So, test before you put something on your sheath that may cause a problem.
 
Now you've got me concerned! I've used sheaths with the glue protected area for about four years without any problem. The finish on the glue seems to be dried very hard and doesn't look like it would absorb moisture. The surface doesn't look as if it would absorb moisture as readily as uncoated leather. However, looks can always be deceiving, so I think I'll inquire with the glue manufacturer to determine whether there is a potential problem of which I am presently unaware. Thanks for the alert.
 
I love the mouse-pad and sandpaper thing. I'm starting to wish I had tried it before I bought my sharpmaker. A little work on 600 grit (all I had) and my GB mini will shave the hair on my arm. Nice deep cuts in 2x4, too. I can't wait to take it camping next weekend. I'll have to be extra careful to keep it away from the kids, though. It looks like a toy...

UPDATE: Whoa! I just got a package from Hand American. I took the GB mini and Yari down to 1200 grit and they are shaving sharp now. The mousepad technique on Buzzbait's convex grind webpage is really easy. I also reprofiled the clip on the Yari. It looks great and cuts even better :cool:
 
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