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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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Chinook
- Thread starter FullerH
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2001
- Messages
- 583
FullerH,
I just bought one also. I'll track my comments into your thread.
-Seth
I just bought one also. I'll track my comments into your thread.
-Seth
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2001
- Messages
- 1,794
Well hurry up, you guys! I've been eyeing Mike's sale on these bowie bladed folders! I already bought a Sifu D2, which I love.
Should I go for a Chinook, or what?
Waiting with "bladed breath,"
Karl
[This message has been edited by Safety Guy (edited 05-31-2001).]
Should I go for a Chinook, or what?
Waiting with "bladed breath,"
Karl
[This message has been edited by Safety Guy (edited 05-31-2001).]
My initial impressions are that it is a very solidly made Buck 110, and that is a compliment. What I mean is that it is a classic folder with a very solid back lock, so don't be looking for anything fancy there, and that it's blade is a modified Bowie shape, just as the Buck 110's was.
But the Chinook's has a very much more pronounced swedge, not surprisingly, when you consider that it is a James Keating design. Keating is THE major proponent of the back cut in knife fighting, a technique that requires a pronounced swedge and very sharp point. It works best if the swedge is sharpened, but there are state laws about double-edged blades with which to contend. Of course, you can always sharpen the final 1/2 inch of the swedge, as the author of the review in "Tactical Knives" current issue suggests, but I say "Good Luck in such a reshaping project on a CPM440V blade!" I suspect that the point would do very well in a back cut as is, thank you, but perhaps Sal or James Keating might have something further to say in theis matter. Sal, I think that this suggestion needs some consideration from a safety point of view, as well.
The knife is one heavy duty dude, that I can tell you! Dual liners and a very thick blade make it heavy in the pocket as well. This is not a light weight carry like a Military or a StarMate. You can look up the hard statistics, but that is my subjective opinion.
The shape of edge is a cutting wonder! I have tried it on all kinds of softish things like cardboard, leather, paper, and cloth, and it cuts up a storm. I surely would not want anyone cutting at me with it! As the review in TK said, it makes a heck of a skinner.
I have tried holding the knife in all hand grips that I can think of and I have yet to find one where my hand would be pressing upon the lock release bar, however, this may vary for others, so I cannot answer that question for you. I suspect that it depends upon hand size.
Again, the only concern that I have registered to date has nothing to do with the knife but with a very public recommendation about a modification to it about which I have some doubts and concerning which I think Sal might have something to say.
------------------
Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
But the Chinook's has a very much more pronounced swedge, not surprisingly, when you consider that it is a James Keating design. Keating is THE major proponent of the back cut in knife fighting, a technique that requires a pronounced swedge and very sharp point. It works best if the swedge is sharpened, but there are state laws about double-edged blades with which to contend. Of course, you can always sharpen the final 1/2 inch of the swedge, as the author of the review in "Tactical Knives" current issue suggests, but I say "Good Luck in such a reshaping project on a CPM440V blade!" I suspect that the point would do very well in a back cut as is, thank you, but perhaps Sal or James Keating might have something further to say in theis matter. Sal, I think that this suggestion needs some consideration from a safety point of view, as well.
The knife is one heavy duty dude, that I can tell you! Dual liners and a very thick blade make it heavy in the pocket as well. This is not a light weight carry like a Military or a StarMate. You can look up the hard statistics, but that is my subjective opinion.
The shape of edge is a cutting wonder! I have tried it on all kinds of softish things like cardboard, leather, paper, and cloth, and it cuts up a storm. I surely would not want anyone cutting at me with it! As the review in TK said, it makes a heck of a skinner.
I have tried holding the knife in all hand grips that I can think of and I have yet to find one where my hand would be pressing upon the lock release bar, however, this may vary for others, so I cannot answer that question for you. I suspect that it depends upon hand size.
Again, the only concern that I have registered to date has nothing to do with the knife but with a very public recommendation about a modification to it about which I have some doubts and concerning which I think Sal might have something to say.
------------------
Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2001
- Messages
- 583
FullerH pretty much covered my thoughts on this knife, so's there's not much that I can add.
Just completed an impromtu test on the back-cut. I fixed the knife in a hard-pressed cardboard tube. I then took heavy back-cut strokes againest baled compressed newsprint and other cardboard materials.(How I spend my lunch--skulking about the recycle area)
The lock held even with full body force swings. The back cuts were'nt slices, more like rips, with deep jagged channels.
It's a heavy knife, but that weight provides strenght.
Oh, Mike's got a great price on them. I paid more for mine to support my B&M store.
Seth
Just completed an impromtu test on the back-cut. I fixed the knife in a hard-pressed cardboard tube. I then took heavy back-cut strokes againest baled compressed newsprint and other cardboard materials.(How I spend my lunch--skulking about the recycle area)
The lock held even with full body force swings. The back cuts were'nt slices, more like rips, with deep jagged channels.
It's a heavy knife, but that weight provides strenght.
Oh, Mike's got a great price on them. I paid more for mine to support my B&M store.
Seth
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2001
- Messages
- 1,794
Thanks for the info, guys!
I'll have to pass on this one, though. I'm committed to tip up carry, and the Chinook is tip down.
I also prefer drop points to clip points, although that's not a big deal (and I really love my Sifu's blade shape).
Thought about it for left pocked carry, with an inertia opening to a reverse grip, but with a Sifu in my right pocket, and a Chinook in my left, I'd REALLY be pushing credibility under Ohio law! Best stick with my pink Delica until I get a black or blue Delica, or maybe a newer Endura.
Kinda wish my Sifu had "the hole!" Then it would be oh so perrrrrfect.
Tantalized but unyielding,
Karl
I'll have to pass on this one, though. I'm committed to tip up carry, and the Chinook is tip down.
I also prefer drop points to clip points, although that's not a big deal (and I really love my Sifu's blade shape).
Thought about it for left pocked carry, with an inertia opening to a reverse grip, but with a Sifu in my right pocket, and a Chinook in my left, I'd REALLY be pushing credibility under Ohio law! Best stick with my pink Delica until I get a black or blue Delica, or maybe a newer Endura.
Kinda wish my Sifu had "the hole!" Then it would be oh so perrrrrfect.
Tantalized but unyielding,
Karl
Hey, I had missed it, but I have gone over 2000 posts today! This will make 2003.
Karl, I don't think that the Chinook will ever be very great at inertia openings because its lock spring is so very stout that it is really pretty stiff opening. It may wear in some, like REKATS do, although it is smooth as silk already, but it is really stiff. Smooth but stiff, and stiff as a function of the lock tension.
------------------
Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
Karl, I don't think that the Chinook will ever be very great at inertia openings because its lock spring is so very stout that it is really pretty stiff opening. It may wear in some, like REKATS do, although it is smooth as silk already, but it is really stiff. Smooth but stiff, and stiff as a function of the lock tension.
------------------
Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2001
- Messages
- 1,794
Gotcha Hugh. Congrats on your over 2000 posts!
Heck, I have 350 now. No wonder I don't feel like a newbie any more!
Gettin older ev'ry day,
Karl
Heck, I have 350 now. No wonder I don't feel like a newbie any more!
Gettin older ev'ry day,
Karl
- Joined
- May 24, 1999
- Messages
- 115
New style chinooks will have a multi position clip for tip up or tip down left or right hand carry.
I sent mine to eric at OST to have a belt sheath made for it horizontal with the piviot forward should be fast.
Gary
I sent mine to eric at OST to have a belt sheath made for it horizontal with the piviot forward should be fast.
Gary
Karl, one last thing. Although I am not plenning on using it as such, the Chinook was designed by a Bowie fighter who emphasizes the back cut in his teaching. As such, the knife is designed with a Bowie style blade and a clip that is, if anything, exaggerated for the size of the blade in order to make for more effective back cuts. Or so I would think.
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Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
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Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
- Joined
- May 5, 2000
- Messages
- 1,478
I'm very pro-lockback (and I even like tip-down knives if they have a Spydie hole, for obvious reasons). But I tried five Chinooks and couldn't find one that was easy enough to open. It's probably the super-stiff lock. Couldn't flick or Spydie-drop any of them.
I've recently bought Chinook - local dealer had three of them. Two of them were smooth and easy to open with one hand using round hole or spydie drop. Problem is that one of this two had some blade play across blade (may be not correct term - it had blade play across the blade and in cutting direction, too). One which I've bought is PERFECT - it's one of the greatest folders I've ever seen (and had
).
I love my Chinook, it is my first Spyderco, and I particularly like the blade design, it has a good belly on the front of the blade which means you can use it to carve if you have the partially serrated model on the plain part.
Though one strange thing, I recently lost the nut that goes in the clip side of the pivot mechanisim, it doesn't seem to affect opening and closing, but I'm wondering how it shook loose, I use the chinnook every day, and one day, there I am, looking at a threaded hole where a hex nut used to be. I'm eventually going to send it back to Spyderco to get it fixed, but something to know for those that buy the Chinook to use it.
I've never had another problem with the knife, and the lock up seems very solid, but I am a bit worried about losing this part.
Todd (edgedance)
Though one strange thing, I recently lost the nut that goes in the clip side of the pivot mechanisim, it doesn't seem to affect opening and closing, but I'm wondering how it shook loose, I use the chinnook every day, and one day, there I am, looking at a threaded hole where a hex nut used to be. I'm eventually going to send it back to Spyderco to get it fixed, but something to know for those that buy the Chinook to use it.
I've never had another problem with the knife, and the lock up seems very solid, but I am a bit worried about losing this part.
Todd (edgedance)
- Joined
- Dec 16, 1999
- Messages
- 383
Todd,
Did you loosen up the pivot to enable inertial and "drop" style openings? I have found that there is no point in trying to make this knife open as easily as a linerlock. You really need to get that screw replaced as it seems to me like a major safety hazard. The pivot needs to be tighter that you might like or expect since backing off the screw on mine introduces up/down blade play that disappears when I re-tighten it. I posted here about the fact that my pivot screw is getting mangled looking (due the the allen head design
) and Sal said that a new one could be shipped out...
Paul
------------------
"TV invents a disease you think you have..."
-Jello Biafra
[This message has been edited by mr44 (edited 06-04-2001).]
Did you loosen up the pivot to enable inertial and "drop" style openings? I have found that there is no point in trying to make this knife open as easily as a linerlock. You really need to get that screw replaced as it seems to me like a major safety hazard. The pivot needs to be tighter that you might like or expect since backing off the screw on mine introduces up/down blade play that disappears when I re-tighten it. I posted here about the fact that my pivot screw is getting mangled looking (due the the allen head design
Paul
------------------
"TV invents a disease you think you have..."
-Jello Biafra
[This message has been edited by mr44 (edited 06-04-2001).]
I have stopped using it, as any knife with a piece missing is probably a problem, they don't just put those things on there for the fun of it
And I'll probably send it back when I get arround to it.
To answer the question, no I didn't loosen anything, or mess with the screw at all. Strange that it would come loose.
Thanks, all
Todd
To answer the question, no I didn't loosen anything, or mess with the screw at all. Strange that it would come loose.
Thanks, all
Todd