Cleaning etched blades

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Jun 8, 2009
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Have seen quite a few beautiful photos posted of blades, mostly model 110 with the etched/arum blades. My questions are, is what appears to be gold on the blades actually gold and how do you clean them? Can you just use something like NeverDull on the blade like you would on the bolsters? TIA
 
Have seen quite a few beautiful photos posted of blades, mostly model 110 with the etched/arum blades. My questions are, is what appears to be gold on the blades actually gold and how do you clean them? Can you just use something like NeverDull on the blade like you would on the bolsters? TIA

I don't know about all of them, but at least some are real gold. The COA for the 2002 110CEN1 that has the Blacksmith Shop etch on the blade says it's 24K gold.

Besides a soft cloth, I've found that pieces of soft chamoi works real well.
 
Gold, being a very soft metal, cannot be polished with any of the metal polishes. The abrasives in the polish will give you a gold colored polishing cloth and no gold on the knife.

Telechronos:):):)
 
I once asked Joe what to use and he told me a soft 'Damp' cloth.. It really worked well for me but on a few sticky, real dirty,gold 112's I went with a soaking wet cloth and was real gentle...Great job and no damage to the gold at all.A soft toothbrush will work on emblems/inlays.
 
Hi asked a friend of mine Samuel Shortes the founder of Aurum Etchings your questions recently, if anyone should know he should, here was his reply with permission.

Hi Tim,

First, everything that looks like gold on Aurum knives is gold. Further it is the type of gold that is used on watches and is very hard to resist ware.

The black that Aurum used was plated black chrome and actually harder than the stainless blade itself. The black that Buck uses currently is the "cold blue" that gunsmiths use and is not so tough----so be cautious. You can't really clean off the black but you can alter the character of the black. For example, instead of being a velvet black, it may change to a gray-black. This isn't necessarily bad but be aware that it may happen if one gets heavy-handed with the polishing or buff it on a wheel.

Despite the metals, one needs to be cautions and clean only when there is actually a need for it.

Back to the gold-----
It is very hard and rugged but do not try to remove a deep scratch.
unless you have the touch of a surgeon. You can successfully clean the surfaces to remove surface haze and restore its original condition.

The product "NEVR-DULL" (George Brasch, Co., Inc.), and "EVERBRITE" (Blue Coral, Inc.) are similar and use cotton wadding to deliver their chemistry---a kind of sponge that holds all of the things that do the job. The cotton also give the product some physical pass and resiliency for the polishing action. Other variation of the basic chemistry without the cotton look like tooth paste so you have to furnish your own cloth. Cotton wadding products deliver both a mechanical cleaning/polishing and also a mild chemical one.

The fundamental issue with a "do every metal polisher" is that for any metal, there are added components that are not really being utilized.

In general there are several basic components all of these many products have in common. The relative individual amounts may vary.

When you open a container of "NEVR-DULL" or "EVERBRITE" you can smell what seems to be mineral spirits and that is exactly what it is. It is sometimes called Stoddard solvent. It is essentially the same thing you buy at Home Depot to thin oil base paints. This acts like a degrease to help remove oils and fingerprints. After you break the seal on the container, some or most of it will slowly evaporate but you can add it back. It still works fairly well even when the wadding is dry.

Some other formulas add a bit of isopropyl alcohol for much the same reason but also to dissolve some of the other added chemicals.
Isopropyl alcohol (like in your bathroom), some ammonium hydroxide (like under your kitchen sink) as a cleaner and blue dye is essentially the formula of Windex window cleaner.)

The very mild mechanical polishing action comes from silica powder as fine as face powder. (Silica, silicon dioxide, is what sand this is except this is EXTREMELY fine----less than the size of a red blood cell. This is why it polishes without removing much metal.

There is usually oxalic acid to remove rust. Some formulations contain a bit of ammonia hydroxide for copper based metals.

Most of these formulas have been around since WW II. For a more aggressive cleaner, they increase the coarseness of the silica.

It is important to use caution and deliver the pressure as uniformly to the knife surface as possible while staying out of the black areas.

Sam,

Additional latter quote Re Jewelers Rouge Polishing cloths

It is true that the use of any cleaning/surface restoration process, that the chemicals should be carefully removed. With the NEVR-DULL system, you have to make sure that the residue is washed out of the etched lines because that is where they will end up. In the case of the rouge, you also have to wash the brown material of the etch area.

When you buy the polishing cloths, there are two sewed together at the top. The brown one has the rouge and the tan one is just the flannel cloth.
 
Hi asked a friend of mine Samuel Shortes the founder of Aurum Etchings your questions recently, if anyone should know he should, here was his reply with permission.
Additional latter quote Re Jewelers Rouge Polishing cloths

Thanks for passing that on. I'm off today to see if I can find those products!
 
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