convex grind tips

valleytinworks

valleytinworks

Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
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ok folks, lots of folks have a hard time with the convex edge.... especially when the edge hasnt been maintained....



so i had a heavy heart that had a real f'd up edge, almost down to a v grind....

solution..... i taped 220 grit sand paper to my strop..... ran over both sides for five minutes

then to 400 grit.....
then 1200......

i now have better convex grind on this knife than the factory or any other i have ever done.....




i wanted to start a thread that provides a lil help to all the guys that are using sharpmakers on thier busse' knives.... before its too late.....
 
valleytinworks said:
ok folks, lots of folks have a hard time with the convex edge.... especially when the edge hasnt been maintained....



so i had a heavy heart that had a real f'd up edge, almost down to a v grind....

solution..... i taped 220 grit sand paper to my strop..... ran over both sides for five minutes

then to 400 grit.....
then 1200......

i now have better convex grind on this knife than the factory or any other i have ever done.....
Click to expand...

Yup...leather backed sandpaper is what I use. I get some killer results.
 
So you always use sandpaper, and motion from spine to edge?
Opposed to using a benchstone and motion from tip to spine (like trying to cut the stone with the blade)
 
yeah, you want to go spine to edge with sandpaper or leather otherwise it'll most likely be cut and accomplish little.
 
I've had good success with mousepad + sandpaper. Maybe I have been using the wrong kind of leather, but I get better edge geometry with material that gives a little more.
 
Sandpaper/Mousepad combo is the best I've found. A steel and a ceramic rod for fixing my edges (often) and a Norton 600 mesh diamond/steel plate for any tweaking (the Norton has worked for plane blades and chisels for years, so works awesome on INFI as well).
 
That sounds great VTW! I've to give it a try soon:thumbup:
 
Wow, Just got some killer results on my GW with the mousepad technique and 320, 800, 1500 grit sandpaper!
Thanks for the tips VTW and others! :thumbup:
 
I'm going to try and dig up an old mouse pad. Haven't needed one since I went to the optical. My latest knives a bowie and a camp tramp have a convex edge. I need some cheaper knives to practice on.

But didn't the the HH come with a sabre grind? Do the newer Busses have a convex edge?
 
1. does it have to be wet/dry sandpaper? or will "normal" sandpaper work?

2. do you Wet the sandpaper with anything? ie water/oil?

3. What motion do you use with mousepad? circular? or stropping motion?
 
tony22r said:
1. does it have to be wet/dry sandpaper? or will "normal" sandpaper work?

2. do you Wet the sandpaper with anything? ie water/oil?

3. What motion do you use with mousepad? circular? or stropping motion?
Click to expand...

1. You'll need to get into fine grits, but it doesnt really have to be wet/dry sandpaper. Just as long as you can start with a course grit (i used 320) then up to 800, then finished with 1500 grit.

2. I just left it dry.

3. Place the mousepad on the desk. put the sandpaper on the pad. hold it down with your non-dominant hand. Strope the knife at desired angle with light to moderate pressure on the sandpaper. The motion will be opposite to that with a benchstone. So the edge will be "dragged" on the sandpaper (otherwise you'd cut into the paper). Do this for several minutes alternating sides, then go to a higher grit. The higher grits will also put a nice polish to the edge, as well as smooth out the razor edge. If you only use a course grit, it will be sharp, but with a rough, jaggy edge. (which will actually cut some materials better then a smooth edge)

Hope that helps!:thumbup:
-Dan
 
you know, making a video on the different sharpening methods and how they are done would be good. Showing is so much better than explaining. But who would make it?? Maybe we should get Cliff to do it.
 
thombrogan said:
What's wrong with that if it gets the knives sharp? :confused:
Click to expand...

Sharpmakers are for V ground edges. Stropping on a mousepad/leather strop is how you maintain the convex edge that all Busse's have. Sharpmakers take out the convex edge.

Anyone have a good supplier for those stropping compounds you sometimes hear about? I live in a small mountain town, so the internet is my supplier for most stuff.
 
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