Corby Type Rivets

Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
198
Does anyone out there have any tips for using Corby Type Rivets? They are also called Hidden Bolt Fasteners by Texas Knifemaker's Supply. At any rate, they're suppose to look like pins when finished. Thought I'd ask for any and all advise now before I use them so as not to mess it up.

Thanks in advance.
 
Buy the step drill made for them....it makes life a little easier.

Use slow curing epoxy at first instead of the 5 minute type...those Corby's can be a little tricky at first.

When grinding them flush with the handle, go slow and cool in water. If the rivets get too hot, they will burn the surrounding wood or micarta and give a bad look.

In general, I do not use 2 scewdrivers to fasten them together. I will clamp the head of one in my bench vise and the use a screwdriver on the other. Less slippage that way.

Hope this helps.

Greg Covington
 
Is there only one standard step drill made for Corby rivets? Where is a good place to get one? And, do you use epoxy on the inside (threads) of the rivets as well?

Thanks,

John
 
John, you can get the step drill at whatever Knifemakers supply house you get the fasteners at.
It helps to make a few cuts in the bottom corners of the rivets, with a triangular needle file. It allows any epoxy in the bottom of the hole to escape upwards as they are tightened. Make small cuts @ 45deg..;)
 
Hey there, There are 2 different sizes of Corby type rivets, 5/16 and 1/4". There are 2 different step drill bits for them as well at both www.texasknife.com and at Kovals Knife supply. Epoxying the threads is a great idea, it works like thread locker, super strong. Hope this helps.
 
Use a saw to cut the excess head off instead of grinding. If you must grind use a new coarse belt. Its a good idea to use new belts anyway to prevent burning a beautiful ring on that precious handle material. Some handle materials shouldnt be dipped in water.
 
Bruce is right....(I forgot to add that) I saw the heads off the Corbys before I grind them too.

Saves alot on the heat buildup.

Another suggestion: Test fit everything before you start with the epoxy. If you drill the countersunk holes too deep, you might have to grind back the female side of the set so the Corby can cinch the scales together rather than just butt up against itself.
 
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