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dtsoll

Joined
Dec 15, 2002
Messages
173
Hey folks,
For a while now I have been thinking about a sharpmaker 204. I have had numerous stones and finally branded myself sharpening challenged. One of the stones I had was a DMT single grit(fine)diafold. A couple of nights ago I started experimenting with a couple smaller (cheap) knives that I have had laying around. I went to DMT's site and looked at their instructions for sharpening knives. The results I got were very encouraging. It's possible I've underestimated my abiltities. I had been trying to use circular motions without good results. DMT's site showed more of a slicing motion. Just like I was going to slice of a piece of the stone. Once again, the results I got were better than I have ever gotten. The 204 is on hold now and I just may get a 2"x 6" stone to see if I get even better results (fine grit 600 mesh). What do ya think fellas? Ideally, I would like to be able to sharpen my knives on a stone. I don't know what it is, maybe a sense of accomplishment or whatever. In your estimation, would the bigger stones be a step in the right direction? thanks for your time. and thanks for the forum. dtsoll
 
I have mentioned this in several threads before, I really believe it helps sharpening with regular hones, so here it goes again:

To help maintain the angle while sharpening I keep the hone tilted and draw the blade across horizontally, a simple jig will keep the hone at proper angle and it´s easy to move the knife horizontally by hand, same principle as crocksticks but horizontal instead of vertical.

Hope this helps.
 
the 600 mesh is a good one. I use these stones almost every day-larger,though, 2.5 x 8 i believe. the fine and extra fine grits are all ive ever needed-even on some pretty rough knives that customers have brought in.

the best stones i have ever used.
 
Don Luis, that is a smart idea! Good for you.

dtsoll, I think one great appeal to just using a stone is that... here it comes... all you use is the stone! No jigs, no power, etc. means you really can sharpen your blades anywhere. The simpler the tool, the harder it is to use. Like all hand operations (the bastids here know I'm smart enough not to type hand jobs! DOH!....), sharpening takes repetition to build in muscle memory. it also requires proper technique that is repeated. Reading all you can, watching other sharpen, and getting videos (Lee Valley Tools, Razor Edge Systems) all will help.

By the way, I'll be getting a plastic jig that kinda looks like the lansky set-ups soon. It is $13.50 Canadian from Lee Valley Tools and after clamping the blade in, you sharpen using a stone witht he jig gliding on your table. I'm getting it to see how well it works as much as anything else, but I bet it will do a great job at teaching my hands the proper motions to use (again, bastids, shuddup!) DMT makes a very similar jig, though it is more money. Buy the jig and some strop compound from Lee Valley! Or buy their video too, or maybe their DMT stones, or... :)
 
Don Luis,
Forgive my lack of vision, but in my words is this correct? Jig the stone at set angle, draw the knife as if you were using a slot gadget? Is that correct? It sounds great, now for the jig. hmmm.... thanks Don. dtsoll
 
Dtsoll,
All is right with DMT Diamond sharpening stones, I have some, use them extensively and obtain acceptably good results. In fact 95% of my sharpening tasks I proceed with DMT diamond stones finishing the edges on SPYDERCO ceramics. My SPYDERCO Ti-Salsa and some knifes more sharpened this way cut the forearm hair being moved above the skin without touching it.

If you have got good result with relatively short surface of Diafold (I suppose you have held it free-hand because it is designed mostly for this style of work) you certainly should get even better results with longer and sturdily based bench stone. The set of coarse (blue) and fine (red) 6x2-inch whetstones would be good as starting point for up to 4-inche long blades.

However adding just some bucks (or even at the same price) you could buy 8x2-inch double-sided (coarse/fine) sharpening surface Duo-Sharp. Add some bucks more buying plastic base what holds it sturdily about 2 inches above table surface and you will know what means to get true pleasure when sharpening
 
i do the same : rough sharpening with a DMT stone and touchup with a ceramic stone
 
The DMT aligner kit is great...i bought it with the fine and extra fine stone...sharpen with the fine...polish with the extra fine...perfect angle...superb results..

i also have a diafold for when i'm out and about...
 
A few ways I use to keep the stone at an angle:

- An old cigar box, put something inside, such as a smaller but taller box to keep the lid partially open, measure with a protractor, lay the stone on the lid.

- An "L" shape made from 1/2" plywood about 6" by 2" gives about 20 degrees, rising the lower end 1/2" by putting a spare piece of plywood underneath gives me about 15 degrees, so I can do a double bevel.

- Set the stone in a vise between two pieces of wood, measure with a protractor.

Make sure to keep the blade horizontal all the time, it should be intuitively easy, you can use slicing or circular motion. In particular I find doing the belly is easier this way than with any other system I know.

I have being doing this since the 60's, I can sharpen totally freehand, but I get better edges faster with this method.

Hope this helps.
 
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