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Bartman - Sharpening styles and methods are as varied as hunting styles and methods, each "expert" thinking theirs is the best.
This one is just mine.
Most serrations are originally ground on one side. This produces a very thin very sharp edge. If the goal is to retain this very thin edge, then sharpening on the ground side only at the same angle as the original grind will produce the thinnest and sharpest edge. This thin edge can under hard use damage teeth because EACH TOOTH STANDS ALONE. It does not have the adjacent plain edge to help support it.
The next method would be to use something like the Sharpmaker sharpening each stroke on the ground side with every 4th or 5th stroke on the opposite side to cut off the burr. This will widen the edge angle and produce a sharp edge that is still thin, but not as thin as the first method, thus stronger.
The next method would be to simply sharpen both sides on the sharpmaker as Blades mentioned. This will still give you a razor sharp edge, but it will be ultimately stronger per tooth.
I've done it like Sal said for the second
method, every 4th or 5th stroke, hit the other side once. It works out good every time, they stay sharper than the plain edge part too, even if you use them equally.
If you fail to prepare, you prepare to fail!
[This message has been edited by prigger (edited 27 February 1999).]
I have both the coarse and fine lanksky serrated edge hones. While I have had excellant results with the Lansky on plain edges, I only use the Sharpmaker for serrated edges. I have had to use a Grobet 6 inch swiss cut tapered file to restore the serrations on abused steak knives. I like to use a #0 or a #2 cut. These files are available from jewelry supply stores among other places.