DPx HEST Folder Blade Setting

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Many thanks RYP,

Both for your reply in the other thread and the info here. I have every confidence in you and DPx and am glad to see how well you stand behind your products. Call me a happy customer and one who will proudly use my HEST/f until I really see a reason to have anything taken care of. Overall I am really stoked to be a part of the family. :)

-Connor
 
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I think a change to the stop pin is still the way to go. Its all about angles - the blade tip is 3" away from the pivot, the detent for the ball is what.. 1/4"? You need to drop the blade tip down 1/16" at most... thats SUCH a small amount at the detent that I doubt it would make the slightest difference.

Just like shooting but in much smaller scale - 1/10" at the muzzle is a foot off down range.

But.. as a test... since I don't have mine yet.. can somebody remove the stop pin completely, and then close the knife please? I'd be curious to see how far you would have to close the knife before the ball pops out of the dent on the backside of the travel. I'm guessing you'll hit the backspacer on the knife handle with the blade tip before it pops out.

And yes, I'm talking out my ass here, because I don't have mine yet, but try it anyway please, this will help validate one of the possible solutions.
 
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Sounds exactly right to me. although i have yet to get mine and try it out, it sounds like you hit the nail on the head. :thumbup:

I think a change to the stop pin is still the way to go. Its all about angles - the blade tip is 3" away from the pivot, the detent for the ball is what.. 1/4"? You need to drop the blade tip down 1/16" at most... thats SUCH a small amount at the detent that I doubt it would make the slightest difference.

Just like shooting but in much smaller scale - 1/10" at the muzzle is a foot off down range.

But.. as a test... since I don't have mine yet.. can somebody remove the stop pin completely, and then close the knife please? I'd be curious to see how far you would have to close the knife before the ball pops out of the dent on the backside of the travel. I'm guessing you'll hit the backspacer on the knife handle with the blade tip before it pops out.

And yes, I'm talking out my ass here, because I don't have mine yet, but try it anyway please, this will help validate one of the possible solutions.
 
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At this point I have had a chance to examine 2 of the Mr DP models.... mine and a friends.

Mine.....

*Lockup about 35% [Just the way I like it, room to break in and wear.]
**Blade centered right down the middle.
***Fit & finish excellent.
****Blade tip about even with liners. [I can barely slide a dollar bill behind it for about 1/16 inch.]

My friends......

*Lockup about 50%
**Blade centered right down the middle.
***Fit and finish excellent.
****Blade tip ever so slightly exposed. [I can slide a folded in half dollar bill behind it for about 1/8 inch.]

To me this is a pretty cool knife that I am pleased with. :)

I will say, both mine and the other one do not appear to have near as much "tip exposure" as some of the pics posted here. The design appears to leave very little room to tuck the tip away, for whatever reason.
It makes me wonder if some of the variation is in how the blades were ground and sharpened.

Cool knife though and hats off to RYP for taking care of those who need it. :thumbup:
 
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I think a change to the stop pin is still the way to go. Its all about angles - the blade tip is 3" away from the pivot, the detent for the ball is what.. 1/4"? You need to drop the blade tip down 1/16" at most... thats SUCH a small amount at the detent that I doubt it would make the slightest difference.

Just like shooting but in much smaller scale - 1/10" at the muzzle is a foot off down range.

But.. as a test... since I don't have mine yet.. can somebody remove the stop pin completely, and then close the knife please? I'd be curious to see how far you would have to close the knife before the ball pops out of the dent on the backside of the travel. I'm guessing you'll hit the backspacer on the knife handle with the blade tip before it pops out.

And yes, I'm talking out my ass here, because I don't have mine yet, but try it anyway please, this will help validate one of the possible solutions.

the bigger issue im seeing now is, Not all knives are having the same gap. there is an inconsistancy between the gap.
Here is 2 knives as an example..
DPxTip.jpg

and
IMG_0837.jpg


Also notice, The image on the blade is NOT lined up the same.(look at the tip, its obvious) Why? idk. but its something that got pointed out. Seems like there an inconsistency all over the knife thus far
 
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Apr 11, 2001
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2,978
I think a change to the stop pin is still the way to go. Its all about angles - the blade tip is 3" away from the pivot, the detent for the ball is what.. 1/4"? You need to drop the blade tip down 1/16" at most... thats SUCH a small amount at the detent that I doubt it would make the slightest difference.
It will make a difference. If your detent ball is 100% centered directly in the hole and you modify the stop pin.... it will no longer be centered.

Now, whether that makes enough difference.. to really "make a difference"... will vary from knife to knife. :)
 
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2,978
the bigger issue im seeing now is, Not all knives are having the same gap. there is an inconsistancy between the gap.
Here is 2 knives as an example..
DPxTip.jpg

and
IMG_0837.jpg


Also notice, The image on the blade is NOT lined up the same.(look at the tip, its obvious) Why? idk. but its something that got pointed out. Seems like there an inconsistency all over the knife thus far
I have looked close.... the image looks about the same to me. :)

I think the blade was ground different in the second image.... [read short].

What do ya' think????? :)
 
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I have looked close.... the image looks about the same to me. :)

I think the blade was ground different in the second image.... [read short].

What do ya' think????? :)

i sent a visitors message to the guy who owns the first knife, for a pic of the entire blade. If he sends one to me, i will match it up with my knife(bottom one) and see
 
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i sent a visitors message to the guy who owns the first knife, for a pic of the entire blade. If he sends one to me, i will match it up with my knife(bottom one) and see
Excellent.... :thumbup:

It may be one, or the other, or both???? :)
 
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Inconsistent gaps in the blade between different knives means that a one-size-fits-all fix is not going to work. If you change something that brings the knives with the most gap inside the handle, then ones with less gap will be more inside the handle, possibly striking the backspacer. Also something for FordFreak to think about before he offers to grind away at folks' stop pins. What works for one may be too much for another.
 
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Dude,I'm glad I'm not in your shoes!!!!!!!

Why? It's either fixed or money back. I actually heard it was built that way intentionally. That way you don't have to even open the knife to cut "Thin Skinned" people :D
 

1234

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Nothing says new knife like the sound of the Dremel tool .


1234,,,,,,:D
 

whitty

Dealer / Materials Provider
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I am not dictating the fix just saying that at first blush it appeared the problem is caused by the pin. We are not reengineering the knife since the prototype works perfectly and has been used for months without problem. As you know a folder is a complex interplay of geometry, fit and materials and one tiny thing can put this out.

So I don't know that a longer blade is the fix or even a pin change but I do know that there is some work to be done.


The reason I shaved my stop pin down was to prove that a slightly smaller stop pin is the easy and best fix to this problem. When I took the knife apart I could tell that the larger stop pin was keeping the ball detent from engaging completely. Taking just a miniscule amount of metal off the stop pin fixed the problem perfectly and did not have any visual effect or change on lock up. It actually improved the amount of pressure in the closed position because the ball detent fits perfectly now. This was not a difficult fix and I am not a mechanical guy. My suggestion would be for everyone to enjoy their knives, wait for DPX to come out with a slightly smaller stop pin, put it on your knives and be happy. The truth is I did not care about the knife point sticking out a tad but wanted to show everyone it was an easy fix that would not effect the lock up closed or open on the knife. Now lets all quit worrying about it and talk about the badassery that is the rest of the knife.



Whitty
 

whitty

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Would it be possible to get the outside diameter of the stop pin from a knife where the blade tip is not exposed?


Whitty, could you measure the 'new' diameter of your stop pin? Please measure it 5 times at three different spots along the length of the pin if you could. (15 total measurements)

Then, we would know how much material might need to be removed on our knives. This would take a lot of guesswork out of the mix for those of us with micrometers and the like.

AHHHHHHHHHHHH NO!

I would not begin to know how much to tell you or would I want to take the responsibility if I was wrong. Honestly I would wait for the fix from DPX. The gap is not noticable unless you put a camera 3 inches away from it.

Sorry I could not help!

Whitty
 

fordfreak

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Inconsistent gaps in the blade between different knives means that a one-size-fits-all fix is not going to work. If you change something that brings the knives with the most gap inside the handle, then ones with less gap will be more inside the handle, possibly striking the backspacer. Also something for FordFreak to think about before he offers to grind away at folks' stop pins. What works for one may be too much for another.

I'm pretty sure most people here understand that. I would never decide on an amount of material to be removed by analyzing one knife. If I did such foolish things I wouldn't be in business. I would have measurements taken at the tip on every knife and do my math from there. ...and I wouldn't be "grinding" anything. :rolleyes:
 

risen

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Inconsistent gaps in the blade between different knives means that a one-size-fits-all fix is not going to work. ...
For me, this supports my not wanting the pin swap option, and preferring a blade swap, instead, especially if pin positioning/placement proves to be more consistent than current blade lengths/gaps. It just seems that addressing blade length is the best way to go without possibly throwing everything else out of whack, so to speak. We'll see. :cool:
 
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the bigger issue im seeing now is, Not all knives are having the same gap. there is an inconsistancy between the gap.
Here is 2 knives as an example..
DPxTip.jpg

and
IMG_0837.jpg


Also notice, The image on the blade is NOT lined up the same.(look at the tip, its obvious) Why? idk. but its something that got pointed out. Seems like there an inconsistency all over the knife thus far

The blade on the second knife is simple a bit shorter due to a different factory finish. Sharpen the first one intensively and it looks the same
 

whitty

Dealer / Materials Provider
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The blade on the second knife is simple a bit shorter due to a different factory finish. Sharpen the first one intensively and it looks the same

I hate to tell you this but I think this is trick photography at its best. The angle on these pictures is slightly different causing the illusion of a bigger gap. The majority of the pics I have seen have been pretty similar as far as the gap is concerned.

I would have to believe from a business stand point that they would think the replacement stop pin is worth trying before they even consider replacing the blade. I am not even sure that would ever be an option.

The statement above is mine and in no way represents the opinions or conclusions of RYP. I have to state this so I do not get voted off the island or run over by a truck.

Whitty

P.S. I never thought I would talk this much about a gap in this particular forum:D
 
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