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Etching Blades

D

DEMPZ

Joined
Apr 25, 2012
Messages
37
Hey, for all you guys that have etched your blades.

I was wondering if you can tell if there has been any weakness in the blade after etching?

With the blades being so thick I wouldn't imagine any, but I was just wondering.
 
I aint noticed any difference...the etch is very very slight, barely enuff to catch a fingernail on. It's highly visible but not deep at all.

If ur talking about the blue/bleach etch.
 
Most etchings take off a minimal amount of material so there will be no noticeable difference.

I've never etched a Becker but I'm a knifemaker that does quite a few etched knives...anything from a light mustard etch to a very deep patterned etch(.010-.030" deep depending on the blade). A very deep etch will of course weaken the blade due to the blade being thinner, but as I said most etches are not deep at all. I've tested a few of my lightly etched blades to destruction and they have never broke along an etched line.
 
Any time you remove steel from a blade, it's going to weaken it to some extent. Perhaps not enough to affect "normal" performance, but it stands to reason it would weaken it some. A choil would weaken the blade, and so would jimping, for that matter.
 
Thanks guys! I'm planning on doing this to my BK2 but I'm not sure what type of etch to use. Is there a post that describes the different etching techniques and results? I think I'm looking for more of an antique look than a pattern.
 
DEMPZ said:
Thanks guys! I'm planning on doing this to my BK2 but I'm not sure what type of etch to use. Is there a post that describes the different etching techniques and results? I think I'm looking for more of an antique look than a pattern.
Click to expand...

Then Clich (blue/bleach etch) is your best bet, it's very random, but can be controlled with vinyl stencils or stickers. If you want it to look really cool, rub some vicks or petroleum jelly along the grind and just etch the flats.

Edit: How to Clich your knife!
 
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Ok, thanks oXide . . . . so is there a difference between etching and forced patina? Or are they the same thing? Guyon has the look that I'm wanting to do in the "Becker Modifications and Inspirations Thread". . . . any idea how his blade was done?
 
DEMPZ said:
Ok, thanks oXide . . . . so is there a difference between etching and forced patina? Or are they the same thing? Guyon has the look that I'm wanting to do in the "Becker Modifications and Inspirations Thread". . . . any idea how his blade was done?
Click to expand...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...er-etch-how-to-NEW-TECHNIQUE-AND-PICS-POST-25

that should get u started, read all the way thru the thread, some techniques have been tweaked and explained further as time went on
 
Gimme a sec, I gotta take a look. But as far as I know, the patinas are like the coating on the FPR (first production run) tweeners, they tend to flake off.

Edit: Do you mean this one of Guyon's knives? That's a BK10, KA-BAR LE I think, and as far as my limited knowledge is concerned, that's how it shipped, well, that's how the blade looked when it shipped.
 
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DEMPZ said:
Ok, thanks oXide . . . . so is there a difference between etching and forced patina? Or are they the same thing? Guyon has the look that I'm wanting to do in the "Becker Modifications and Inspirations Thread". . . . any idea how his blade was done?
Click to expand...

Etching is permanent..patinas will wear off, or can be sanded off, and changed to suit your taste....etches will be there forever LOL
 
DEMPZ said:
Ok, thanks oXide . . . . so is there a difference between etching and forced patina?
Click to expand...

Its a matter of semantics. Etching refers to removing material. Patina refers to surface discoloration.

You can have an etched knife with no patina, and you can have a blade with a patina that doesn't etch to much depth.

Most aging methods used on blades are a combination of the two, but the person coming up with the method may use either word.
 
I appreciate all the info. I'm gonna just give it a try and see what happens! One last question - from what I've been reading, is it correct that all that needs to be done to protect ares that wont get etched is to tape it? Thanks again.
 
Tape might work, but if I were doing it, I would use petroleum jelly or vicks vapor rub type stuff to protect from etching. Like ThrillBilly said, read though Clich's thread, megaton of info in there.
 
DEMPZ said:
One last question - from what I've been reading, is it correct that all that needs to be done to protect ares that wont get etched is to tape it? Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Pretty much. You just have to make sure the tape you choose fits the method you choose. Most clear packing tape works fine. Some masking tape works, some fails horribly(unfortunately thats from personal experience). Theres other masking methods you can use...wax, grease, paints, primers, etc. Some work better than others. Personally I use vinyl tape from sign makers for flat areas and paint for contoured areas. Just make sure the paint you pick holds up to your etching/patina method. I've actually found some paint that instead of masking the area will make it etch even faster...as strange as that sounds.

I recommend testing your masking method with your etching/patina method on a test piece of steel before doing a nice knife to make sure it does mask well.
 
Yeah, I was just reading through twice and didn't read anything on petroleum jelly or vics vapor rub. That's applied prior to bluing and bleaching right? I'm glad you mentioned to try it on a piece of steel . . . . I could have dipped my new 2!
 
Far as I know, it's pre-blue, but I would listen to the guys that makes knives over myself, all my experience with such things is all reading, until I get around to picking up some perma blue that is.
 
If you are referring to this one here

P1020983.jpg


that is the stonewash finish the LE BK10's came with. In order to duplicate that same look on a different knife, you would need to stonewash the blade after stripping off any coating.
 
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