Fillet knives

Joined
Mar 23, 2000
Messages
94
A couple questions...

1. How can i make a fillet knife, it seems that extreme flexability is desireable, how can i acheive that flexiness?

2. Why is flexiness in a fillet knife desireable?

any info would be great,, thanks!

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Fillet knives need to be flexible so they can follow the ribcage or spine of the fish you're filleting and make tight curve cuts. The way David Boye shows to make fillet knives in his book, Step by Step Knifemaking, is to put the blade between the stock support and the contact wheel and bend it back and twist it so the edge contacts the belt and pull it up. Repeat this till the blade is thin and ground the way you want.

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Take care!! Michael
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I just made one, my first. The method described is better then the way I did it. It took about twice as long to get right as anything else I've tried. Wait untill you heat treat it. Shoot for a R45-50.
 
I've made a lot of fillet knives but I don't believe David Boye's way is either easy or safe! 1/16 material-either 440c or Ats-34 will real work well for you. Only grind your outline, clean up the sides,and drill all necessary holes. Then send to heat treat. I recommend either a guard that is part of the blade material itself or bolsters. After heat treat if you still find the blade to flexible for your style of grinding make yourself an outline of wood for back up behind the blade that can be attached with a clamp at the handle. Of course this size of steal will require either flat grinding-which I believe works the very best for a fillet knife- or a very large hollow grinding wheel. Another suggestion would be to keep your blade on the narrow side.Made a little on the stiff side and you will in your same patern also have a super boning knife- just great for helping with butchering jobs and also very handy around the kitchen. I hopes this helps ! Frank.
 
I make mine like Frank 1/16" 440c or sometimes ATS 34. I grind some before heat treat using a 2X2 as a backup. I heat treat to RC 57. A slight convex grind is usually adequate considering the overall blade thickness.

Flexibility is determined by the width of the blade not its thickness (1/16 doesn't give much to play with). A 1/2" wide blade will easily flex to 90 Deg at RC57.

Buffing is the real dangerous part and must be done before handle goes on. Buff lengthwise using a 2X2 screwed on using the pin holes. This way if anything gets caught it is a block of wood instead of a sharp pointy object to deal with.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com




[This message has been edited by george tichbourne (edited 03-04-2001).]
 
Thanks alot! Now I might be able to finish this guys order on time!
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