First impressions, and random thoughts on first axe hafting.

[jviss]

In no particular order, entered here for your consideration and input.

1. My old axe heads' eye perimiters are peened over, inward, closing the eye a bit. Best to file off this ridge before hafting, no?
2. I occurs to me that there is a draft (draught?), or taper, to the eye of an axe head, such that when the wedge is fitted, it tapers the top of the handle to match, holding the head on. Is that universally so?
3. There doesn't seem to be a single way to wedge a handle that is accepted as the correct way. Some use metal wedges at 45 degrees, across the wooden wedge, while some do not. Where did this "safety wedge" come from? How does it work?
4. When wedging, some use glue on the wedge; some use linseed oil; some, nothing at all. What's the thinking on this topic?
5. In some books describing hafting, the wedge slot is sawn after the handle is fitted to the eye. My handle came pre-sawn. I have filled the kerf with cardboard so it doesn't close the slot during fitting. I might even make a filler piece of hardwood on the table saw before I fit the handle. Comments?
6. Does anyone use smoke to fit the handle, or just rely on the marks the head makes on the wood?

Thanks!

jv

 

[G-pig]

1. Yes, I would file that out before fitting. It probably occured when someone pounded on the top of the head to fit it.
2. Almost always. Some axes are straight with no taper. Some scandinavian axes are actually the opposite (don't ask me how they get a pine fit).
3. The safety wedge probably came to be as a band-aid for lack luster fitting skills. They are not necessary if you do the wooden wedge correctly. If I were to put one in it would be parallel to the wedge so as not to split the grain at the top.
4. I have never used anything like that on my wedges. I think the theory is that it will swell the wood, or for glue, to keep it from coming loose. The glue seems like a bad idea in case you have to re-wedge the axe later on without ruining the handle. I don't think either really make very much of a difference.
5. Most of my axes come very rusty so they mark the wood fine. I usually don't rely on the marks anyway, I can tell where I need to remove wood just by sighting up the hang.

Hope that answers your questions. Have fun.

 

[jviss]

...sighting up the hang.

Thanks for your reply! I have a question, though: what do you mean by 'sighting up the hang?' Could you possibly mean 'sighting up the eye?' The only definitions of hang that I can find are 1). the alignment of the head and handle; and 2). the process of installing a handle on a tool that has an eye.

Thanks,

jv

 

[M3mphis]

Agree with G-Pig. I would add:

3. When I have needed a metal wedge, I have found that it is not likely to cause a crack if you place it perpendicular to the grain of the handle. If you fit it in between the grains, it will likely start a crack.
4. I started putting linseed oil on the wedge. It makes it easier to drive the wedge deep because it lubes, and I always soak the top in linseed oil anyway.
5. Most of the handles I have fitted have the kerf sawn too shallow. Once I determine where I want the head to sit in relation to the shoulder on the handle, I cut the kerf to approximately 2/3's of the way down where the head will sit. As far as using something in the kerf to keep it open while hanging-I've never heard of that. I can't see how that could be necessary. If anything, it might just encourage you to take off more wood from the handle than necessary.
6. I always just eye ball it, like G-Pig said and look at the marks on the handle made by the head.

Also, pics are always in order!

 

[G-pig]

By sighting it up I mean looking down the butt end of the handle and seeing the alignment of the bit. If it is off in any direction I immediately know what I did wrong and where to remove more wood to straighten it out.

 

[M3mphis]

By sighting it up I mean looking down the butt end of the handle and seeing the alignment of the bit. If it is off in any direction I immediately know what I did wrong and where to remove more wood to straighten it out.

Good point. Definitely be checking the alignment as you go.