Good oil to protect non-stainless blades from rusting

gunmike1

gunmike1

Joined
Dec 9, 2005
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I have a Krein Ultimate Caper in CPM M4 waiting to be opened tomorrow morning, and needless to say I am excited. I was wondering what you guys use to keep your non-stainless blades from rusting. I use Tuf Glide on my folders for lubing the action, would that work good on the blade to guard against pitting? My only current non-stainless blade is a Takeda Gyuto in Aogami Super Steel, and all I do for it is wash and dry it quickly after use, but that only gets used in the kitchen, and not as a utility knife. I may want to go with a food type oil if I decide to use the Ultimate Caper for occasional food work, but at this time I primarily see it as a utility knife for cardboard, rope, packages, ect.

Mike
 
just keep it clean and dry and you will be good to go.

If you want to put something on it a tuff cloth or ren wax would work.

Tom
 
if your going into a high corrosive inviroment to play awhile, you can take allmost any stainless steel with you,and not have to worry. if you want a knife that requires no maintanace you will want a spyderco in H1.
 
Tom Krein said:
just keep it clean and dry and you will be good to go.

If you want to put something on it a tuff cloth or ren wax would work.

Tom
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Thanks for everything, Tom. I just opened my present this morning and am like a kid in a candy store. This knife is like a little scalpel, it just has tremendous geometry. The edge thickness is right around .007" and the angle is just under 10 degrees per side (just about perfect if you ask me). That, along with the full hollow grind, mean that this is one great cutting machine! The tip is about as pointy as you can get, it pierces with just about no effort. The knife is very light with great balance, and it is easy to make accurate and controlled cuts. This is a very good precision cutter. The fit and finish are great, I really like the green and black G-10 handles, and the edge was tree topping sharp with great teeth to it (and a couple hairs made their way from Arkansas as proof). I wish the grip was slightly bigger for my plus size paws when I have a loose grip on it, but it is very comfortable and all of my digits fit on the handle. At first I thought the hump on the handle might not be in the right spot for me, but when I go to cut my hand naturally goes to a tighter grip, putting the hump right between my middle two fingers, and the handle feels just right. Thank you very much for making this one for me, Tom, I have been drooling over the Ultimate Caper for a while and now I finally have it thanks to your hard work. It was well worth the wait. It will be a lot of fun to check out the performance of this steel.

Here are a few pics.








Thanks again Tom, and Merry Christmas!
 
Mike,
MERRY CHRISTMAS!

I am glad you are happy with it!

I look forward to hearing how it performs for you!

Enjoy!

Tom
 
I use laxative grade mineral oil. Kid-tested/mother-approved/inexpensive/food-safe. That's one beautiful Ultimate Caper you've got there, gunmike1!
 
"Triflon", found at any good hardware, excellent for knives, as well as guns. "Renaissance Wax"- a little tougher to find, do a "google" search. Micro-crystalline wax used by the British Museum to protect all their priceless goodies. You can use this stuff to protect metal, plastic, wood, etc., paper even. Great, but not cheap.
 
Rust on carbon steel is seldom a problem unless you are in salt water. I like to use CorrosionX.
 
The stuff that 'wins' all the testing for rust-proofing is called Eezox. They now have a special knife care solution but I understand the gun care should work just as well--both guns and knives are steel!
Greg
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions, but I think I may go with Thom's suggestion if I decide to coat it since this knife is about perfect as a paring knife. Oh, and thanks for the compliments Thom. How are all of your new Christmas Cow Swords treating you? And Tom, don't worry, I will definately enjoy using this knife, you did a great job on it.

Mike
 
gunmike1 said:
How are all of your new Christmas Cow Swords treating you?
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They're all waiting for me to start cooking and stop using Larrin's santoku. They're also calling me an idiot for selling the Moritaka to fund a Nenox and the Nenox is saying "Shut up and use me! You know I'm your destiny!" Kinda creepy.
 
Nice knife!!! I also use the laxative once and a while, because I'm cheap. I live in such a dry climate, I usually just dry it and have no problems.
 
congrats on the Ultimate Caper, Mike, it looks great :thumbup:
I've been using the heck out of mineral oil, like Thom suggests.... ;)
 
What's the matter with WD40? Or even sewing machine oil. If you spray WD40 on a knife and it ruins any part of it than what good is the knife to begin with? WD40 is designed to prevent rust.
 
WD-40 is actually designed as a water displacer, hence the "WD".

I would stick with mineral oil for a knife that will perhaps be used around food. Works well, easy to find, odorless, food-safe.
 
FoxholeAtheist said:
WD-40 is actually designed as a water displacer, hence the "WD".

I would stick with mineral oil for a knife that will perhaps be used around food. Works well, easy to find, odorless, food-safe.
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Yeah, that's a better idea. Forgot about knives and food relationship. I spray WD40 on tactical knives with carbon steel blades while in storage. The WD40 dries but leaves a rust protectant on the surface; anti-oxidation.
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions and compliments. For now I have just been keeping the knife dry but will probably put mineral oil on it when I do need to coat it.

Thom, you do have problems if your knives are talking to you and taunting you. Have you ever been visited by the men in white coats to take you to padded rooms (my wife says the guys in white need to visit me, so maybe you are equally wrong in the head)?

Mike
 
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