Gränsfors Bruks

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Mar 17, 2009
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So my buddy over in Sweden just sent me a Gränsfors Bruks Small Forest Axe; this axe is a thing of beauty! Beautifully hand forged, has a great weight, and sweet handle ... plus a beautiful leather sheath. I have zero experience with axes, zero. Should I protect the handle [just below the head] just incase I "miss" my target. How would I go about doing this? This axe will be used for camping and nothing else. Any other maintenance items I should consider ... ? Thanks everyone.
 
I believe that REDPOINT is asking just that. Basically, how do I properly use and care for this axe?
 
I have zero experience with axes, zero. Should I protect the handle [just below the head] just incase I "miss" my target.

If you are beginning some protection might be a good idea - some use cordage or leather strip wrapped in a tight simple spiral for about 1-2 handspans beneath the head, others use bicycle inner tube slid up and doubled over.

Here is a reasonable link to get you thinking safety:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tUUctg6dfk
Take care not to swing it into your legs!

Enjoy your GB!:thumbup:
 
learn to use it properly and you will never have a problem

Haha - well obviously! :) I'd like to keep the axe in good shape for a long time plus keep all my appendages that I was born with.:D

Most axes I've seen all seem to have damage just below the head - hey we all miss sometimes. I'm just wondering if there's some way of preventing that damage. I've seen tape, wire wraps etc ... what are people's opinions on these various techniques.
 
Small Forest....Great Axe....Dry head and oil when done and putting away...Sharpen when needed.....
Oil the sheath every once in awhile....And just use it.....
( Use Common Sense )
 
Haha - well obviously! :) I'd like to keep the axe in good shape for a long time plus keep all my appendages that I was born with.:D

Most axes I've seen all seem to have damage just below the head - hey we all miss sometimes. I'm just wondering if there's some way of preventing that damage. I've seen tape, wire wraps etc ... what are people's opinions on these various techniques.

if your worried about cosmetics put some tape on it to keep it looking nice i guess... when you take the tape off. i think it would look stupid personally.
after heavy use yea you'll have some misses and it might leave some marks but you probably couldnt even swing that axe hard enough to break the handle on a miss. nor should you swing it that hard anyway, they're extra sharp, so the axe does the work not you.
a worn handle adds character.
 
Small Forest....Great Axe....Dry head and oil when done and putting away...Sharpen when needed.....
Oil the sheath every once in awhile....And just use it.....
( Use Common Sense )

That and a little appropriate oil on the handle from time to time. :thumbup:
 
Ive got an axe that Ive had (used and abused) for a while.. What is the best way to get an edge back on it? Is there a good tutorial somewhere? I want to get a Husquavarna hatchet, but I'm not sure how to sharpen it when it gets dull..
 
Ive got an axe that Ive had (used and abused) for a while.. What is the best way to get an edge back on it? Is there a good tutorial somewhere? I want to get a Husquavarna hatchet, but I'm not sure how to sharpen it when it gets dull..

The hatchet is super dull when you get it.... I don't think it could even cut butter.
 
Look, this is the latest axe from Gränsfors, it has a steelprotection just below the head.

http://www.naturkompaniet.se/Product/Product.aspx?id=71770

That looks like more of a splitter rather than a regular axe. I have a slightly larger model and the protection is a nice feature.

On a regular axe you can use a few layers of heavy gaffer's tape or wrap with paracord. I have a hawk that the maker wrapped with rawhide to give it a traditional look and feel.

If you wrap the handle with something thick like paracord or rawhide, in my experience (with the above-referenced hawk) the wrapping will get chewed up a bit when you are splitting because the handle will become thicker than the adjacent head. The wrapping can contact the wood as you split. No problem if you are just chopping.

DancesWithKnives

Edit: On closer examination, I might be wrong about that being part of the splitting axe series. The head looks a little different than on the splitters and although I can't read much of the text, the weight looks too low for even the smallest splitter. If that's actually a regular small axe/hatchet with a steel guard, I'm surprised. I would not have thought there would be a big demand for a steel guard on a normal small axe.
 
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I personally like the look and idea of having a small piece of hide leather wrapped around the handle about 3" from the head to the head to protect it. With a simple cross pattern tie in the back to cinch it tight.
 
Damn---looks like I might be out a few bucks! I have many of the other GB axes, including most of the Ancient Axe series. I've never had a problem with haft damage on smaller axes so I'm uncertain whether I'd ever need the steel protector (although it has saved me some damage to the large splitter). However, the head shape and haft configuration are interesting and it might be worth a try.

Thanks for the new product info.

DancesWithKnives
 
To me, marks and stains on an axe handle are all part of the character of the axe. Each little nick has it's own story to tell. When I get a new axe ( I have a few) I can't wait until the handle begins to take on it's own colouration. I really don't worry about breaking the handle every time I swing the axe. if I break it, I'll simply re-handle it. I haven't managed to break one yet though. I maintain the handle with linseed oil (brush on the linseed oil and then wrap the handle in cling film for a couple of days, then remove the film and wipe off the excess oil with a rag) and I maintain the head with fine wet and dry paper and wire wool, and keep it with a coating of gun oil.
I've had 5 or 6 Gransfors axes over the years (I still have a couple knocking about) but more recently, I've developed a liking for Swedish custom maker "Cegga". but Gransfors axes are really good tools.
 
Start by giving your new ax a good sanding with 120 grit. move up to 200 grit and wipe clean with a rag. Then soak it in kerosene (75%) and tung oil (25%) for about a week. Remove and hand rub the excess into the wood grain. Finish by adding some paste wax or orange oil wax with a rag and rub in very well.

always keep the axed sharp, never loan out or use for roots or sandy wood. It will last your lifetime and your childrens and grandchildrens lifetimes.
 
Could you tell us more about the soaking in kerosene and tung oil? What does it do? And why? Thanks.
 
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