Heat Treating ATS-34

R

rlinger

Joined
Mar 29, 2002
Messages
4,591
This is my first message being as I am new to the forum.

I have not made a knife before but want to make a skinning knife for use on deer. I wish to make the blade of ATS-34. I would use BG-42 if I thought I could heat treat it properly. I have read that BG-42 requires a complex heat treatment. After fashioning my ATS-34 blade will I be able to heat treat it properly by soaking it in hot coals (I have a great fireplace at my camp) until red hot then quenching in water or an oil?

Thank you - rlinger
 
Welcome to Blade Forums RL.
I'm not a heat treating pro but I don't think you can heat treat ats34 like that. I use a computer controlled electric oven and the temps and times are pretty critical. If I can make a suggestion, I think you would be better off using some L6. It's cheaper than ats34 and can be heat trreated in a forge and oil quenched, plus it's a super tough steel. Heres Admiral Steel's url, you can buy it there.
http://www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades.html
 
Michael,

Thank you. Can I harden the L6 in the crude manner I described above (heating it to red then quenching)? Should I use water or oil? Do I need to temper after hardening? Should I temper all the blade or the back to the edge, leaving the edge untempered?

Please forgive my ignorance.

Thanks again; rlinger
 
If you decide to use ats-34, you need to get it to approximately 1850 degrees to get it to non-magnetic, then you can air quench. No oil needed. Tough to gage that temp by color.
 
ATS34 is a complex steel that is best done under controlled conditions. It hardens between 1850-1975 deg., but it is required to soak at those temps for a period of time. You would be better off,IMO, using,01, 1095, etc. Much more forgiving of home heat treating methods.
 
Mike,

Thank you. Which would I get better edge retention with, L6, O1, or 1095?

Thanks again; rlinger
 
They are all good edge holders, if heat treated properly. 01 is the most forgiving, I believe. Can be reheat treated over and over, if mistakes are made. Good luck.
 
just to let you know, i send my ATS-34 and BG-42 blades to paul bos for treatment. both of these steels are treated the same. also CM154
 
Great!

About how much would you suggest it might cost to have him do a blade for a new customer? Also, how can I best get in touch with him?

Thanks; rlinger
 
I think Paul charges $12 for single blades.. He is the best man in the biz to send it too... Dont have his number right here, but I am sure someone will post it directly..

Take Care
Trace Rinaldi
www.thrblades.com
 
Thanks to all for helping me determine what carbon steel I should use for my first blade.

I have decided to go with a steel I can treat in-house. I am leaning toward L6. I believe I should harden L6 at about 1450 degrees F., but can find nothing about tempering temperatures for this steel. Can someone please advise me what it is and correct me if my guess about 1450 degrees is wrong for hardening L6?

I appreciate all the fast help I have received; rlinger

Later, should I become good enough, I hope to do a great blade made of something of the order of BG-42 and have a pro do the heat treating.
 
Now that we've moved into carbon steel, don't forget 5160. Everyone has their favorite. 01 is a good steel but IMHO doesn't take or hold an edge like 5160. L6 is a good choice and tougher than 5160 but not quite as forgiving as 5160. A lot of new makers start with 5160 because it's easy to work and stay with it because it's a darn good steel.
 
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