How do I get Miltec-1 off a knife

Dark Nemesis

Dark Nemesis

Joined
Mar 20, 1999
Messages
7,497
I've used Miltec-1 on many knivs with great success. However I recently applied it to my Strider AR, and have been very dissapointed with its performance and I want to go back to the Tuf-glide applications. Are there any recommended ways to truly remove Miltec-1 from a knife or will it basically only come off after time and normal usage? Thanks in advance
 
My first question would be what specifically are you disappointed with?

I have found with Militec-1 that you sometimes have to make several applications over a period of a week or two working the knife for a few days between in order to build up to the full effect. The alloys used and their surface finishes probably account for the differences. So, the answer to your problem may actually be found not in removing the Militec-1 but in actually applying more.

The other thing that just about everyone finds with Militec-1 is that best results require gently heating the blade and the other parts in the pivot area before applying the Militec-1. I use a hair dryer myself. Whenever you talk about heating a blade someone gets all paranoid about ruining the temper. In order to do that, you have to raise the temperature above the final heat treatment temperature which is always above 300F. Water boils a little over 200F. So, as long as you don't get the blade hot enough to boil water you'll have at least 100F of margin. Believe me, with a hair dryer you're not gonna get the blade anywhere near hot enough to boil water so you're not gonna affect the heat treatment of the blade at all.

Now, as to your original question of how to get it off, I really don't think there's a simple soap or solvent that will. It's some sort of florocarbon molocule. One of the claims to fame of such molocules, teflon being the most famous, is their immunity to solvents and soaps. It will just have to wear off. Fortunately, my experience has been that the first application of Militec-1 on a given knife does so fairly quickly. For a balisong, it may last only an hour or two of manipulation. The bad news for you: a couple of hours of balisong manipulation is equivelent of years of normal usage on a conventional folder. Now you know why I like Militec-1 and now you know why I say that nobody knows more about the lubrication of folding knives than balisong artists.

Now, another idea that comes to my mind is that Militec-1 is thicker than Tuf-Glide. It's possible that if your Strider is rather tight that the Militec-1 just didn't get into the joint and penetrate between the surfaces.

The other thing that occures to me is that if you've used Tuf-Glide in the past the problem may be that the old Tuf-Glide is keeping the Militec-1 from bonding to the surface as well.

If the Militec-1 isn't doing a good job on your strider, my guess is that for some reason, tight joints, metal alloys, surface finishes, phase of the moon, whatever, that you just didn't get much of it to "take" on the surfaces and so there's not much there to remove anyway. Just go ahead and clean the knife out and then reapply Tuf-Glide.
 
I think I applied it well. I've always taken my AR apart to clean and lube it. Even did the blade heating before applying it. My other knives all had either ATS-34 or 154CM blades and reacted well to the Miltec-1. The AR has a BG-42 blade, don't know if thats making any difference.

First I thought the same thing you mentioned that maybe the previous coats of Tuf-glide were stopping the Miltec-1 from bonding with the blade and pivot area so I've applied it twice. Can't say I've noticed an improvement. Its actually a good amount worse as far as smooth of opening and blade protective coating than it was with the Tuf-Glide.

I know many people say that Miltec-1 is superior to Tuf-Glide, and thats why I wanted to use it. Do you think I should give it three or four more applications over the next few weeks and that might to the trick? Or are my chances of seeing things better pretty slim?

Thanks
 
I would re-heat then work the knife a bit...wait a couple days, re-heat then re-apply the MiliTec-1. Heat it up before applying, work it in.

Without the heat it is nothing and honestly, I did a Sebenza first and saw no real difference, then I pulled out the Balisongs and did them, and as they cooled, I re-heated the Sebenza that had already been done and voila! It got smoother...so...this is just a new thing for many people...but I can tell you that even a "cold" folder you take off of the dresser, you can open it and it feels a certain way and after a few hours in the pants pocket...the warmth from your body will make it smoother with MiliTec-1 in it, now how is THAT for strange? Maybe it is just my imagination, I don't think so though.

I would stick with MiliTec-1 and even if that did not work, the only thing I found better than all of the junk grease out there in the Knife World, that are lint magnets, is BreakFree CLP.
 
Militec-1 is a bit more viscous than other multi use liquids. And is not necessarily designated as a penetrant. Before applying it, it is a good idea to back off the pivot screw til a bit of blade play develops. This will allow for the lube to flow in a bit more efficiently. Work it in for a while and readjust the screw. Works for me.

Nakano
 
How is a lube that works best after a bit of warming supposed to help when you're stuck standing waist deep in cold water and you need to cut something?

jmx
 
It's not so much that it works best when it's warm but that heat helps it to bond with the metal surface. This stuff is really different than most other lubricants since the joints actually become dry within a day or so of applying the stuff. The carrier evaporates leaving the lubricant bonded to the metal surface. There's no greasy oily stuff to attract and trap dirt or to wash out. If you're gonna be standing waist deep in cold water, this is definitely the stuff you want.

http://www.militec-1.com
http://www.balisongcollector.com/militec1.html
 
I tell you I can't get this stuff to completely dry on the two folders I have used it on. Yes I used heat of 180deg on both, and worked them. I waited 3 days, wiped them dry and did the same. Then again. So three times, and still looks glassy and wet inside even after I wipe every crevice and work the knife, some wetness is still there.

I have also been using this stuff in a few of my casting reels to great effect. It doesent seem to dry out in there either, I have been heating up the bearings, and all that seems to happen when I apply direct flame to militec, is that it gets less viscous like most oils, and flows more freely. Still trying to figure this stuff out. Not sure if it is just a good oil, but it has worked in making an auto of mine faster for certain (aqnd o blade play cause I can tighten it down enough now) that is an advantage to some that is overlooked. Well hopefully we can keep this going.

JC
 
I'm not sure what you want to do but if you want to clean the metal so that you can start with clean bare metal then try "M Pro 7" it is a gun bore cleaner it will safely remove any and all oil grease build up so that if you don't protect it soon after it may rust. This is because you now have bare metal not because of the harsh product which it is not. If you have firearms you should look into this stuff...
 
Might want to try GunScrubber by Birchwood-Casey. I have cleaned several surplus guns caked with cosmoline down to the bare metal (no residue) in minutes with this stuff.
 
Find someone with an Ultrasonic cleaner and dump her in,I would be suprised if any Miltec remained after 10-15 minutes in there.
 
Well, since I'm new here, I might as well go with the numerous posts about this stuff on glocktalk.com, thefiringline.com, the sig forum, etc. ect...

The million dollar question: IS the MILITEC that they sell for high prices in small bottles, the same stuff that they sell in quart sized bottles in auto stores?

For me, I dig CLP. Some have tried militec, clp, etc and have gone with Mobil 1? :D
 
Geez....

I WISH they would tell you to heat the surfaces first!!! :mad:

Here I've been applying the Militec-1 to the joints and wondering why the *blip* it has about as much lubricating power (and wears off faster) as any other blah oil (ahem, Hoppes...)

Last night I tried loosening the pin, heating up the pivot area with a hair dryer until it's hot to the touch, applying Militec-1 -- and there's an incredible difference. Now the action on all my knives are smoooooooooooth and have been stayed like that for a while.

Also, I can tighten the pivot screw until there's no play and it doesn't catch/jerk on opening. :D

Dur... why not put it on the packaging, those silly gits? :rolleyes:

-Jon
 
That's what's making me wonder... the automobile stuff is made to go in an engine that is running at hot temps where it makes a bond with or seals the metal, no? If the lubricant sold as knife lube or in the sniper kit has the same property, is it the same stuff? I think the price of the qt. was somewhere in the neighborhood of $20-ish (IF I could have purchased it, which is a whole different story)...

I mean, as you said, it doesn't SAY to heat the metal first, right? But when you do, it works better, no?

http://www.militec1.com/automotive1.html

Does this sound like the same stuff, same properties?
 
I can not quote the exact place, but somewhere in their info it does say that the bonding/chemical reaction for the best effect takes place at about 120 degrees. The larger bottles are the same stuff as the small. However, be sure that it is Militec-1, there are similar names and products which are not the same. The 16 oz bottle retails for $35.00. There is no quart size, from 16 oz the real thing in the next size a gallon. Have been using it for some time in everything from engines to knives, great stuff.
 
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