how do I re-edge cold steel norse tomahawk ?

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Aug 26, 2005
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Hi I,m looking at the cold steel norse style tomahawk . I like the look and the shape of the blade loans itself to embedding itself in the target . I do find the edge a bit thick . Can I just file the edge down or is there a better method for a superior blade/edge ? This has to be easily done for a beginner as I have access to a bench grinder but would rather use hand tools .
 
Yes you can just file it, you can use power equipment just cool the edge after every pass in water to avoid over heating. If you are a fairly experienced thrower and don't miss often then you might want to polish the edge a little after the filing or rough grinding.

-Cliff
 
I have the Cold Steel Frontier and Norse hawks. Honestly the Frontier hawk has been a better sticker in my experience. The Norse hawk is a good product and hits harder and sticks well. I've just done slightly better with the Frontier Hawk.
 
I have read the reason some may have an issue with the norse penetration depth may be due to the initial factory sharpening and the obtuse nature of the blade itself . I find the blade profile itself loans itself to a forgiving hawk and a little touching up of the initial finishing may result in a superior product .
The norse is a less expensive hawk . I have seen it compared to a hawk that cost seven times as much .
Of course it came up short . I think with a little work a thrower can have a decent hawk .
It has been suggested that the hollow grind method while viable can result in
failures of integrity in some hawks .
I think a judicious resharpening of the edge along with re-angling(pardon the poor terminology)the supporting blade will have favourable results .
 
I have gotten good edges on my CS hawks by first using a good mill bastard file to thin and reprofile the edge a bit. Clamp the hawk in a vise of some sort. Then, I use a Smith diamond paddle to take some of the file marks out of the edge surface (this step optional). Finally I convex the edge a bit using progessively finer grades of emory paper on a computer mousepad. Use light pressure and a circular motion here so you don't roll the edge over.

It should not take more than 20 minutes...maybe 30, to get an edge that will be a bit scary.

Jeff
 
Kevin the grey said:
I have read the reason some may have an issue with the norse penetration depth may be due to the initial factory sharpening and the obtuse nature of the blade itself . I find the blade profile itself loans itself to a forgiving hawk and a little touching up of the initial finishing may result in a superior product .
I think a judicious resharpening of the edge along with re-angling(pardon the poor terminology)the supporting blade will have favourable results .
My hawks are shaving sharp, so that's not the problem. I think that sometimes the cutting edge hits in it's center and a corner never makes contact, thus it's "stickability" is compromised and it doesn't stay in the wood.
 
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