How to ask for steel?

D

dmelton

Joined
Jan 2, 2001
Messages
164
Ok, this will let you know exactly how new to the hobby I am. I have a list of phone numbers for local steel supply companies. If I were to call them what would I ask for if I want good steel for my first knives? What's a decent price for barstock?
 
What I would do is,first get a catalog from each of these co's.,then decide what type of steel you want to use ie:high carbon,stainless,etc.,thickness,width,length,whether you want precision ground,hot or cold rolled mill finish and so on.Once you have all that down,then call & get price & availibility.You might then find that their prices are higher than places like Admiral steel,Tru-Grit,and other places that primarily supply knifemakers.You might also find that the average phone sales person might know less than you as to what steel makes a good knife.

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MJH
 
Well that's why I was posting, even I don't even know whether I need "hot rolled" or whatever. I just know I want to begin knifemaking and I don't even know what to ask for. Should I use 440c or O1 or D2? If so, how do I ask the steel company to cut it, what lengths, widths, etc are good? This may sound way to simple for some of you but I'm VERY new to this.
 
Here are some steel types used very often for knives.

High Carbon: not stainless, will rust, can be oil quenched for HT

1095 $3 a foot
O-1 $10 a foot
5160 $6 a foot
L6 $4 a foot
CPM3V Dunno..but more expensive

Stainless: Will not rust as easily as carbon (all steel rusts), but needs more complex heat treating

440C $10
ATS-34 $11
154-CM $11
CPM 420V Dunno...expensive
440V $28 a foot
BG-42 not sure..a little more than ATS-34

Tool Steels:
A2 $8
D2 $10
M2 ??
O-1
ATS-34
52100 round stock for forgers only, unless you get it forged into barstock for you

considered tool steels. More complex HT

Some ideas. get barstock, usually 1/8-1/4 thick, 1 to 2" wide depending on knife type. Flat ground is always a plus. Mill run is as it is, not truly flat, cheapest form, blanchard ground, much flatter than mill run, a little more expensive, precision ground, more expensive, but flat, great for folders, but often available in 3' sections only
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The CPM stuff, and D2 are hard to grind, O-1 and 1095 are much easier and cheaper.

www.jantzsupply.com
www.texasknife.com
www.kovalknives.com
http://www.knifeandgun.com/
www.crucible.com
www.admiralsteel.com

all sell knifemaking steel, along with mcmaster carr, MSC and other places.

prices vary in terms of grade (mill, blanchard, flat) amount, and type of steel.



[This message has been edited by Taz (edited 02-07-2001).]
 
dmelton,my reply to your post was'nt meant to be flippant,just what I would do if I was in your shoes.I'd still get the catalogs,read as much as you can on the subject,might not make sense at first,but it will fall into place.Precision ground has mill scale removed,also more exspensive than cold/hot rolled finish.Just leaves you w/ a little less work,though not much,in finishing a knife.Stainless steels require the services of a proffesional heat treater,like Paul Bos to get the most from your blade IMO,carbon steels,like 01,1095,etc.,are more forgiving,and you might find a nearby knifemaker that can h/t them for you,till you find what you want to settle on,and gain more experience.

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MJH
 
Hi there dmelton,

If I were you I'd stick with the standard steels right now to simplify things. ATS-34 if you want stainless or 1095 (or O-1) if you want carbon steel...better yet you might even consider just picking up a few old files for near nothing.

I've been playing with some files (they are typically made from 1095 carbon steel) and have had some great success. Easy to work (once annealed) and easy to harden and temper at home...all you need is a heat source (torch, forge, bbq etc), a magnet to check for critical temp, some oil for quenching and your oven for tempering...you can search the forums for heat treat info on 1095 steel or O-1.

If you go with the ATS-34 you will want to find someone to heat treat it for you (I was lucky enough to find a local maker that knows how, but people like Paul Bos are the best choice).

Also, what type of equipment you have might help you determine your choice of steel right now...ATS-34, D-2 and the like are harder to work than say 1095.

As for pricing, it might be simplest to just call around and see where they are as compared to Admiral Steel, Koval, Texas Knifemakers, K&G etc etc. 1095, O-1 are relatively easy to find at most any metal supplier; the others can be a pain.

I have bought from Texas Knifemakers, Koval, K&G, Admiral, Jantz and some others with good results and fair pricing from each (from what I could tell, as there isn't much available where I live...that I've found so far).

Just my opinion, hope it helps. Enjoy the adventure. Lost of invaluable wisdom and information on this forum!

Darren
 
:
The 1st thing I would do without any experience at all is read the archives here on the Shoptalk Forum if you haven't already.
That will give you an idea of what steels will do what as well as many fantastic tips about how to design and make a knife.
And if you haven't boughten some good knife making books a trip to the library might be in order as well.
If you've had some kind of experience in other metal working or woodwork or as a mechanic that will help you in the skills needed to make a good knife.
One thing I always tell people starting any kind of project they're not familiar with is that. "Care and patience will go a long ways in making up for skill and knowledge."

Take it slow and easy and you will get there.
I would order 1095 to start with as it's a good steel and is relatively cheap, But makes one exceptional knife if heat treated right.



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>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
I think you get better advice, etc going to one of the knife suppliers for steel. Some posters to this thread have already mentioned several, all of whom are good.

Steel suppliers - and their salesfolks - usually don't know much about knives and when they hear you want to buy one piece of steel, well... if you want 500 pounds, that's different. One has to understand this too, they are in business to make money and they don't make money selling $20 worth of steel. The knife supply house may have prices somewhat higher than a steel mill, but that's justified because they will sell you $20 worth if that's all you need. Most can also heat treat the blade for you too.


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http://www.wilkins-knives.com
http://www.wilkins.de
 
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