How to make a homegrown wood stabiliser?

Kalindras · Dec 16, 2001

I've got the basics, already...I've procured a hand-operated vacuum pump (of the type used for bleeding brakelines), some mason jars, and nylon fittings and hose...

My question is...what do you use to seal around the fittings? I tried silicone caulking, like is used for fish tanks, but the first time I tried stabilising some walnut burl, the ensuing froth (as the air from the wood evacuated) bubbled up the acetone/wood hardener mixture, which then ate away the silicone...

So, I thought, maybe I'd tried putting the fittings on with compression fittings and rubber gaskets, but I figured that acetone would just eat that away, over time, too. So I'm stuck. I can't think of any material that will allow me to get an airtight seal around my fittings, but not get dissolved by the acetone or its fumes.

I know a couple of you'se guys have built these things, and I'm wondering how YOU did it?

TJ Smith · Dec 16, 2001

Been using one of those for a couple years now. I use goop around the lid. by the way I use wide mouth mason jars either the quart or 2 quart.Punch a hole in the lid insert a piece of 1/4 inch brass tubing . Put a liberal amount of goop around the tube. I use mine right away but it's probaly better to let it set up.
I punch the hole with an awl as that gives a little support. A seal of vaseline around the lip helps the seal.Can usually get 25 inches.
After 2 - 3 days switch the hose to the top connection and you can put a little pressure on the jar.
hope this helps
Take Care
TJ Smith

sattley · Dec 17, 2001

I used a canning jar with a glass lid, drilled a hole through the lid and put a regular barb type vaccuum fitting in it with JB weld. as for hoses etc, just high quality oil resistant vacuum lines from your local parts house. I had trouble with all the acetone "boiling" out of the wood hardner at a little over 20" hg. the more vacuum you pulled the faster it went. Never could reach 26" like I have with other stuff, it would just boil all my stabilant away.

Kumdo · Dec 17, 2001

Sounds pretty easy, but is it a very bad idea to just oil burls (say, buckey or maple)? I love working this way, and the finished look. I just wonder what might happen if your wood is solid (not spalted) and it's all pinned and epoxied properly. Has anyone had non-stabilized wood crack or split?

TJ Smith · Dec 17, 2001

Had some problems with unstabilized maple . It would grow or shrink depending on the weather. I use min wax on all my wood even ironwood and cocobolo. The acetone has to have some effect on the oil in the wood. It seems to make the handles eaiser to finish.
Take Care
TJ Smith

mott · Dec 17, 2001

what chemical or chemicals are being used to stabilize?

Kalindras · Dec 18, 2001

I'm using a 50/50 mix of Acetone and MinWax Wood Hardener. I'm thinking of cutting back to a 2:1 mix, heavier on the wood hardener, since the Walnut Burl that I did is still WAY soft. I mean, I keep putting scratches in it while buffing, by accidentally scraping it with my fingernail while rubbing it with a cloth!!

It LOOKS good, though. And luckily, I've only put it on a letter opener, so it won't be going out to the field, or anything. Still, part of what appeals to me about knifemaking is the "Mad Scientist" part, wherein you have to know touches of EVERYTHING to do it well. Scientist, Tinkerer, Metalworker, Woodworker, and Lunatic all mix with other trace elements to make a good Knifemaker or Swordsmith!

indian george · Dec 18, 2001

I have been using the mason jars, too. I started out putting valves in the lids and had problems with them leaking. My girlfriend got in a Foodsaver vacuum sealer the have a attachment for mason jars. I hooked it up to my vacuum pump work great.