How's CR Shadow IV as a survival knife?

golok

golok

Joined
Oct 20, 2000
Messages
4,453
Personally, I like the length and shape of this particular knife but I don't know about its reputation as a survival knife.

Anyone care to enligthen me?
 
Well, you're not going to be able to do heavy chopping with it, but, then again, that's what an axe is for anyway. You also will not be able to break the Shadow. It's a good knife, made from good steel. I prefer something a little bigger, but the Shadow would certainly work just fine.
 
Well, I can't say I've ever had to rely on it for real survival, nor personnally known anyone that had to... But I've got a Mountaineer strapped to my backpack's shoulder strap, carried in a Tim Wegner made inverted kydex sheath. I've used it as a hammer and I carry the basics in the handle - it's never leaked from the abuse and it's relatively easy to sharpen in the field. Mine has the saw-back, and it actually works... as well as, or better than, the saw on my SAK Camper.
Now, the only difference between the the one you're talking about and mine is the size and basic blade shape. Since all the CR knives are built the same way, I think what you'll find is that you need to decide which blade shape works best for you, and which size you'll want it in. Otherwise, all of these knives will probably suffice for a survival knife.
 
The CRK One Piece knives are heavy duty for their respective sizes. Besides different tip designs, they also have slightly different grinds. Among the midsize line, the Sable has the highest grind, followed by the Mountaineer and Mark IV, followed by the Shadow IV you're interested in. I.e., the full blade thickness at the spine comes a little farther down the face of the blade on the Shadow IV, which is why it is slightly heavier than the Mountaineer, which is slightly heavier than the Sable.

Glen
 
I used to have a Shadow 4 that I had them make with a half guard. It was really well built, all the lines and grinds were perfect. I didn't like the hollow ground edge, but that's personal preference. It was easy to sharpen to a screaming sharp edge.

I really love hollow handled knives and this one was no exception. Like the others said, forget about hacking or chopping with it, it's too handle heavy and the edge is ground too thin for that type of work, but it is an exceptional slicer and would be a great knife to have in just about any situation.
 
Also, remember that it's made of A-2 tool steel which is not a stainless steel. The only Reeve Fixed blade I've seen that's stainless is the Yarborough which is made of S30V. Now, for most military people, or hunters, or those who take a firearm into the woods with them, who would normally carry a little tube or bottle of oil with them, carbon steel knives are not a problem. Otherwise, a carbon steel knife may be susceptable to some corrosion.
 
The CRK one piece knives have a tough durable anti-rust finish on them (Kalgard). I never had a problem with corrosion. The only steel that is not coated is the very edge of the blade. If the edge does rust or tarnish, it will sharpen right off.

If you ever wear the finish off, CRK will also bead blast and re finish your knife for a small fee as well.
 
the coating on the handle checkering wear away very fast, essentially giving you exposed steel, as is the edge as Placeknives mentioned. Keep these places in mind and you should be fine.
 
Whoops I forgot About that coating.... Plain A2 with no coating will rust quick though
 
I have the shadow III its a great knife the only thing is the handle is a little short for my hands. I contacted them and asked if they made a extended butt cap. They thought it was a good ideal but they dont make them. The shadow IV looks might be the right size. I prefer a midsize knife but wanted a smaller version for backpacking. easier to conceal on trails. Really liked the sheath to .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top