HP for homemade 2 x 72 grinder

Joined
Dec 26, 2016
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Hello, I made a homemade 2 x 72 grinder and I am currently running it with 1/2 HP 3450 grinder motor with 2,3,4 step pulley. It just does not have the power to run other than on 2 pulley on the motor and 5 pulley on contact wheel. Question is, would a 1 hp motor do the job or do I need to get a bigger motor? Also any advise on where to get a motor? Don't want to buy off craigslist because you never know what you are getting. Harbour Freight has a 1 hp for $159.

Any suggestions are appreciated, thank you in advance!!!!
 
The bigger the better! Think of 1hp as really the bare minimum for a grinder.


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Check out automation direct. You'll get a much better motor for the same price. personally I'd go 2 - 3 HP but that's just me, you could get by with 1 - 1.5 but if you're sending the same amount of $$ why not go bigger.
 
I have 2hp. I'll likely go 3hp on my next grinder.
 
Thanks for the reply's, can you run a 2 or 3 hp on 110 outlet I do not have access to a 220.

Also suggestion on RPM 1750 or 3450?

Thanks!!!!!
 
Goblin if it's direct drive 1hp is more than enough. Also if your using a vfd 1725rpm then you can use the 2x jumper in the vfd. If your using single phase and pulleys 1.5hp minimum. I would still get a 1725 motor. I've heard from motor manufacturers that 1725rpm motors are more durable and run cooler.

Also 1.5hp is the most you can get on 110/120v
 
If a 1750 motor is more durable and runs cooler, what does doubling the RPM it was built for do to it? That doesn't make any sense.

There is no practical difference in the construction of a 1750 motor or a 3600 motor. Same fan. Same bearings. Same shaft. Same endbell, stator and rotor. The only difference is the number of poles.
 
Kuraki thank you the poles. Super nice guy from electric motor wholesale said something about 4 pole motors holding up longer. I've also seen Stacy and a few other respected members here echo this.
 
I run a 1 HP TEFC motor from HF on my home build 2x72. The direct drive on the shaft is 5" & it's OK, but I see some people who recommend 1 hp per inch of belt width as a minimum. I'm not running a production shop, so it works well enough for my needs.
 
If you can run a 220VAC, you'll have far more options for economical VFDs. Otherwise, as stated, 1.5HP is the most you'll get from a 110VACin, 220VAC out VFD, and that's typically on more expensive drives like the kbac-27d.
If I'm not mistaken, lower cost drives like the TECO FM50 series only go to 1hp for 110vac input, but just to 2hp with a 220vac input.
 
The biggest reason I want more HP than the 2 I have isn't even steel. It's wood. I can bog my 2hp machine right down until I get an over amperage alarm and it kicks out sanding a 6" long block of wood on a flat platen if I want to.
 
Thanks for all the input, it was really helpful!!! I found a USA made Dayton 2hp on craigslist today and got it. Works great with the extra hp. I did have to add a filter to the air intake since it is not TEFC. Just some velcro and home AC filter.
 
Copy and Paste from Northridge grinders of which I totally agree.
Electric motors

"The motors we supply are 2 horse power 1725/1800 rpm three phase 56c face mount 4 pole electric motors, and use a variable frequency drives (VFD) to convert from the 110v or 220v single phase power of a normal house or shop wiring to the 3 phase power the motor requires. At the same time the VFD gives smooth and accurate variable speed control. We chose the 4 pole motors despite there lower rpm because we can double their speed by increasing the hertz from 60 to 120 with the VFD and maintain full torque up to the original 1800 rpm of the motor with a slow drop off as it increases to 3600 rpm. But as you increase speed you gain inertia in the form of rotational momentum to help offset the loss of torque. Compared to a 2 pole 3600 rpm motor where you would lose torque throughout the entire rpm range rather than just half of it.


2 pole vs 4 pole

The standard AC motors that everyone is familiar with have 2 poles, that is two electromagnets on opposite sides of the motor. At any single point in time while the motor is running, one pole is north and the other is south. By alternating the poles back and forth, the changing magnetic field causes the motor to spin. The fields are switched twice per rotation, always trying to repel the close side of the motor’s armature while at the same time attracting the opposite side, in a constant game of tug-a-war. A four pole motor has twice as many magnetic poles, one every 90° instead of 180°. The same basic principles apply but instead of switching twice per rotation, the magnetic field is switched 4 times. This is like a game of tug-a-war with four ends to the rope instead of just two. Just like a 4 cylinder engine vs a V-8, the more poles a motor has the more torque it produces.

If 4 pole motors are so great, why don’t we use them everywhere? Well that’s because standard household current is only single phase, which means it’s only able to directly operate a 2 pole motor. To operate a 4 pole motor you need industrial 3 phase power which is not available to most people, which is why most consumer motors only have 2 poles. But there is a loophole that allows you to run a motor with 4 or more poles on single phase, and that is the Variable Frequency Drive. Through sophisticated electronics, a VFD can take single phase 120v or 220v current and convert it to the three phase power required to run a 4 pole motor."
A 3600 rpm motor is always cheaper and there's a reason for it!
 
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The biggest reason I want more HP than the 2 I have isn't even steel. It's wood. I can bog my 2hp machine right down until I get an over amperage alarm and it kicks out sanding a 6" long block of wood on a flat platen if I want to.
Is your machine direct drive? I only have a 1-1/2HP motor and I've never come close to bogging it down.
 
Is your machine direct drive? I only have a 1-1/2HP motor and I've never come close to bogging it down.

Yes direct drive. With a 5" pulley. Bogging down is the wrong term. It doesn't slow down. My motor has no thermal protection so I have my VFD set at an amperage limit on the motor nameplate. I can grind into it at full speed with ever increasing pressure and no speed loss until it hits that amperage draw and then the VFD cuts out.
 
ah. The only thing I have a problem with on mine is tripping the breaker when I first start it up on occasion. I have taken to starting the motor without a belt, then shutting it off and installing a new belt. I can then start and stop it through belt changes without issue. I am assuming the start capacitor needs to be charged when i first start work for the evening.
 
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