Hudson Bay knife with updated steel?

T

tatalley10

Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
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Ok guys so let's ponder this. Times change, tech changes, steel changes right? So what about updating some old faithful designs with cutting edge steel and scales?
Specifically trying CPM3V on the Hudson bay knife design with some micarta scales in wood tones?

8.5" length
3/16"-1/4" thick
2" blade depth
4.5" full tang handles
rc hardness 60
Full flat grind
Now let everybody chime in....

ALL secondary bevel types and shapes?
What does the masses says about the steel upgrades, and about an open ended edge discussion to ubtain the best utilitarian/woodman blade possible?
Bring out the grey beards!
 
Jk knivs used to make a 7 & 9 inches in 01, maybe not 3v, but he had the heat treat just right and it would not be hard to sharpen. I think 3/16 would be the perfect thickness with a 1 3/4 inch blade at it widest. Still hefty but not unwieldy. I think it should adequate belly for skinning, but still have a good point too. Just my two cents. Some of my favorite HBs are ML knives, Idaho knife Works. (Mike Mann), and the Bark River. There are a lot of people who have experience with a large blade that can definitely give some ideas and get the discussion going.
 
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Definitely agree on the JK Knives Hudson Bay!
He will make them to your dimensions too. Want a recurve, want a 9" blade, want micarta or wood scales? You name it.
Fwiw, he normally runs his O1 to 60-61 hrc.

Hudson Bay. 12" overall, with a 7" blade of 3/16" O1.
r1eyjq.jpg


2mcudya.jpg


I have literally beat the hell out of my JKs and I have yet to see any deformation, or chipping. Prying fatwood out of stumps, chopping and getting pass-throughs onto pebble ridden soil and frozen pine and black locust.
 
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I'm making a few O1 knives right now and plan on messing with D2 soon by making some hudson bay knives. I want to end up going to cpm3v as I learn my way threw the steels.

Any info out there on secondary bevel types on hudson bay knives
 
I'm making it. Just wanted opinions on good secondary bevels people have done and used, and liked
 
Ah right. I didn't get that from the post. Good luck in building one then! Be sure to share the endresult with us :-)
 
21cc6422f4bb5357066ac38fdc9867bf.jpg

First grinds ever! O1 tool steel, next D2... cpm3v... and then I'll start branching out into different designs based on steel needs, coatings, use!
 
tatalley10 said:
21cc6422f4bb5357066ac38fdc9867bf.jpg

First grinds ever! O1 tool steel, next D2... cpm3v... and then I'll start branching out into different designs based on steel needs, coatings, use!
Click to expand...

Not to pick on you, because you aren't doing anything that other knifemakers do, but why do people get all wound up about the strength of full tang knives, then put a huge rivet hole right above the index finger relief????

The one on the left isn't any stronger than many hidden tang blades with no handles.
 
RX-79G said:
Not to pick on you, because you aren't doing anything that other knifemakers do, but why do people get all wound up about the strength of full tang knives, then put a huge rivet hole right above the index finger relief????

The one on the left isn't any stronger than many hidden tang blades with no handles.
Click to expand...
I thought the same thing looking at it after I drilled...lol
I was paying to much attention to handle placement and the handle shaping and not enough to structure!
Meh, maybe the 3/16 will make up for my bad placement of pin holes...lol. I'll find out this summer cause I plan on thumping on my design...
 
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