nismo,
Pappy has told you where the action is for sharpening. The B part which is the edge.
When you use hard sharpeners, concentrate there. To get a convex edge that merges smoothly with the bevel, (A-B), you will find that some of the bevel parts get worked a bit also, and it won't look as pretty anymore. It's way too much work for me to try to work that evenly with hard sharpeners. If you don't care about that, no problem, and you're done once the edge is sharp.
The softer, resiliant things like a loaded strop or sandpaper on a mousepad are different. If you use those at the same angle as a stone, the give allows the abrasive to wrap around the edge and will dull it. How much depends on the pressure applied. So you need to use a flatter angle with those to get the edge sharpened. That naturally works on the B part also, and after the deformation of the soft material, the contact of the edge with the abrasive should now be correct. I've incorporated that into the sharpening procedure to get the whole bevel as polished as the edge and rest of the knife. It is partly cosmetic, but it also encourages a full convex profile if the khuk isn't hollow ground. And the polish helps discourage rust. Though you may never sharpen a khuk enough that it matters, it also thins the bevel as you sharpen. That way as the blade gets skinnier from remving metal from the edge, it doesn't get thicker just before the edge. If you eventually take a 1/4" from the edge, you won't need a drastic regrind, it's been adjusted all along. Recall Yvsa's coffee-can picture. Imagine that single profile extending from the beginning of the bevel all the way to the edge. Without a secondary edge angle. But this isn't absolutely necessary, and unless the edge, "B" is well formed and sharp, it won't cut or chop no matter what is done elsewhere.
Sorry about the confusion, hope this helps. It is so much easier to show than write about.
And the toys...you gotta have some kind of collector permit or something to have them in Kalifornia?
