Koster Bushcraft (in progress)

[Martin Swinkels]

I'm working on some kydex-leather combi's for the Koster Bushie, and this is progress so far.

Liners are formed:

Here the leather is drying into shape after wetforming.
3 different kinds of leather I used.
The left one is made of lappleather. it's very thin (1.7 mm), but very stiff and strong. It's the lightweight.
The bottom one is made of 2mm halftanned, the one above in the middle also, and the one on the right is made from 3 mm halftanned. It's still a bit wet, hence the darker color.

After drying, i'll glue and stitch the beltloops. wet it again a bit on the outside, glue it shut and stitch it up. trim it, sand it, paint it and wax it.

There is no retentionstrap, since the blad is very lightweight, and retention is provided by the kydex (smooth klack) and friction will suffice for most outdoor scenario's.
On the upperbeltloop a rectangular ring will be attached to transform it into a dangler. This ring runs freely on the upper loop, and will stay out of the way on the bottom of the loop when not in use.
The beltloop is placed a little to the back of the grip, so it will not interfere when grabbing the sheathed knife. Use your thumb to push it out, for a onehanded draw.
The sheath on the right will have a square bottom with a lanyardhole btw.

I'll make more pics along the way..

Thanks for looking
martin


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[SPXTrader]

Very Nice! I especially like the lappleather! Can you give me a little more info on "painting" it? As far as kitchen drawer protection, do you think the kydex alone would be sufficient?

 

[Martin Swinkels]

I won't paint the lappleather one. It comes in this color, and will darken a bit by the wax.
The other ones will be like the Ratweiler and Howler sheaths mentioned elsewhere on this forum. Dark Brown. They also can be left natural ofcourse and waxed only..

 

[leatherman]

Looking good so far!

I'm curious, have you tried full tanned leaher? It can ba had thicker for belt loops and such. Also, full tanned holds its shape better while drying instead of trying to bounce back.

I've been attempting to get a hold of some decent half tanned here in the states, not easy stuff to find, I keep running into raw hide. Found a lot of cheap stuff though.

 

[Martin Swinkels]

Looking good so far!

I'm curious, have you tried full tanned leaher? It can ba had thicker for belt loops and such. Also, full tanned holds its shape better while drying instead of trying to bounce back.

I've been attempting to get a hold of some decent half tanned here in the states, not easy stuff to find, I keep running into raw hide. Found a lot of cheap stuff though.

I could send you some halftanned, no problem I have some in stock right now. I'll throw in a piece of lappleather too.. That stuff is amazing! It bounces like hell, turns into rubber, but once you know how to massage it into submission, it's great to work with. It dries up, stiff as kydex, but with the warm feel of leather.


I did one of these in fulltanned, and it is easier to work with indeed. I don't think it's the ideal material though (really no offense intended ). It's so much easier to cut through.
Halftanned makes the collar of the sheath nice and stiff, and when you don't sheath it properly and cut it accidentely, it won't cut through. It's gets less affected by weather, keeps it's shape better once dried.. I see so much pro's. Even with a kydex liner.

The clamps are there to let it 'shrink to fit'. They'll get all curled up without them.

 

[rayban]

I've seen these enough now that I'm starting to like em...until you get to the rivet part....
I look forward to seeing your progress....:thumbup:

 

[DutchV]

Okay, I'm just starting to work with leather, so maybe this is an obvious question: How do you avoid marking the leather with the spring-clamps you're using? Put the thread channel across the marks? Or is there another technique?

 

[Martin Swinkels]

@ rayban
There won't be any rivets on this one
not even a chicagoscrew to adjust the tension .. It will look very plain and simple, sleek, slender but it will be very strong and durable. Just like the knife it is hosting .

@DutchV
During wetforming I carve a little gutter with the bone-tool to outline the kydex. In here the clamps will rest, tight to the liner till it's dry. This is also the part where the stitching will be. Prior to grooving I will wet that part of the sheath a bit, and remove the marks as good as it goes with the bone-tool.
To prevent really disturbing marks you'll have to move the clamps left and right little bits during the first hour of drying. That will smoothen things out.

Disadvantage of these particular clamps is that sometimes they stain. But that will be covered up by the paintjob. Despite that, I love these clamps, tried several, but these are extremely well suited for this job, apart from the staining. They became part of the style I do I guess.. Sometimes you see little black dots..

 

[popedandy]

Very Nice! I especially like the lappleather! Can you give me a little more info on "painting" it? As far as kitchen drawer protection, do you think the kydex alone would be sufficient?

Kydex alone works fine for kitchen drawer protection.

 

[DutchV]

Thanks for the explanation. That helps quite a bit.

 

[Martin Swinkels]

I finished 2 today..

Here's a pic after the beltloops have been stitched, the waxing of the inside.

Three cups in a row showing the difference in thickness. The lappleather, still untreated measures 0.06" or 1.5 mm. Taht'll be a slick one.

The finished sheaths

The left one is made of a heavier grade leather, and weighs 66 grams (2.32 ounce). The right one weighs 52 grams (1.83 ounce), and is a liitle more compact also.


The ring to attach the dangler too sits out of the way

Starts to rain a bit.. Heck, they're made for that


Easy to grab with four fingers, and pushed out by the thumb.

Small sheaths do enhance the toolmarks indeed :foot:

Retention is fine. No rattling or fear of losing them, but easy to draw one-handed.
And they're all integral. Made from a single piece of leather. Even the small welt is made from the same piece..

Hope you like 'em
Have a Nice Day!
martin

 

[trestle]

Beautiful work, martin, you've raised your bar again. Do you have any pics of the square-bottomed sheath?

 

[Martin Swinkels]

Do you have any pics of the square-bottomed sheath?

Not yet.
I don't know for sure if I like it enough. To be honoust. I never used the thonghole on my BRKT sheaths (which are roughly the same on their bushcraft models), so why make one?
Unless it's a special request for someone who is determined to have a square bottomed sheath ..

 

[xaman]

Martin,

I guess I just assumed the leather was glued to the kydex ---- but if i'm reading your posts right, the leather is only "shrink fit" and then sewn around the kydex? It seems like that would not be stout enough around the throat area???

They look great BTW!

 

[Martin Swinkels]

Martin,

I guess I just assumed the leather was glued to the kydex ---- but if i'm reading your posts right, the leather is only "shrink fit" and then sewn around the kydex? It seems like that would not be stout enough around the throat area???

They look great BTW!

Yes, it's shrinkfit, sewn, and then some ..
It might as well be glued, cause you would not be able to tell the difference.

I don't know what you mean with the throat area.
??
I assume you mean what I describe as the cup of the sheath?
What do you think of as not stout enough?

I believe the 'cup'is one of the strongpoints of this design. It works like a funnel that directs the point of the blade into the sheath very easy. The stitching is protected by the welt. Further down a welt is not needed as it is impossible for the edge to reach the thread without breaking it first.

Glad you like the look, now you're ready to 'feel' one.

 

[TekSec]

Sometimes you see little black dots..

Not that I'm any expert but why don't you get some small diameter rubber tubing (surgical), slit it and slip it on the lip of the clamp. I just thought of this because I love those suckers too but hate the marks and having to move them.

 

[xaman]

Yes, it's shrinkfit, sewn, and then some ..
It might as well be glued, cause you would not be able to tell the difference.

I don't know what you mean with the throat area?
I assume you mean what I describe as the cup of the sheath?
What do you think of as not stout enough?

I believe the 'cup'is one of the strongpoints of this design. It works like a funnel that directs the point of the blade into the sheath very easy. The stitching is protected by the welt. Further down a welt is not needed as it is impossible for the edge to reach the thread without breaking it first.

Glad you like the look, now you're ready to 'feel' one.

I meant that, without glue, it seems like the leather would tent to roll away from the kydex at the top (or mouth or throat) of the sheath (where you slip the knife into the sheath.) Maybe it's shrunk so tight that it will stay put?

edit --- I looked closer at your pics... I thought the top of the kydex was level with the leather, but it looks as though the leather comes up 1/2" or more above the kydex. That makes more sense, when you sew it down tight, it cannot roll away from itself...

they look great :thumbup:

 

[raindog101]

Martin,
I'm loving the look of that lappleather. PM sent.
Dave

 

[trestle]

xaman, the leather does extend above the top of the liner on my HRLM sheath, similar to these. It is very stiff, just not quite as stiff as kydex. It is a little more pliable and comfortable to push off from as you draw the knife.

When I first got the sheath, I was a bit skeptical as well. I tried to flex the leather enough to see if I could wiggle the liner or misshape the opening/cup by trying to roll the leather, something I too assumed would happen. No chance, it is very rigid and strong. :thumbup:

 

[trestle]

Not yet.
I don't know for sure if I like it enough. To be honoust. I never used the thonghole on my BRKT sheaths (which are roughly the same on their bushcraft models), so why make one?
Unless it's a special request for someone who is determined to have a square bottomed sheath ..

Who asked for a thonghole?