Kydex forming advice??

F

FUBAR

Joined
Jun 12, 2001
Messages
78
I was wondering if anyone could give me any advice on forming kydex. Right now I have a crude press made from a couple hunks of stout plywood and some dense foam stapled to the upper arm. I'm using a dremel to do most of the cutting and finishing since I don't have the space for any large power tools. I learned a lot about what NOT to do on my first try. Anyway, I'd like to improve my technique so I don't waste too much kydex.
 
There was a strong thread on this subject some months ago. Try doing a search for it in the archives. I learned a lot about kydex that day. The general consensus was that the press I used did not apply enough pressure and there were a lot of very innovative ideas about presses.

I now use neopreme glued to a scrap 2X12 and a hydraulic press I made with a bottle jack.

I still heat with a heat gun.

I epoxy and rivit the sides and finish with a belt grinder.

Again, look up the archive and see what the really talented folks do.
 
Hey Fubar....

Forming synthetics is not difficault...
Somewhat difficault to get just right though...

The basic process is quite simple really...

I use blue sleeping pad foam. Other expensive foams can be used,,but have to be ordered and thats a pain in the A$$.
Stick with as many materials as you can find local...

I also use 2 layers on each side of the mold.
Roughly 1 inch on each mold side.

This with give you what I call a 3D sheath..A 2D sheath is flat on one side and molded on the other..

To obtain this you use foam on the top and a flat piece on the bottom.
The smoother your flat piece is the better or nicer of a finish you will have..

The same goes for the top mold..Any scars, nicks,dents or assorted damage to the faom will leave a mark on the finished product.
Avoid that.

When my molds start to show damage from heat cracks,or Major indentations, they get rotated into folder duty doing neck rigs. After that the garbage.

I run three custom presses and 6-8 different molds. I cycle as needed.

Onto the press...

You want alot of pressure from you press..
At least 300+ lbs on an 8X8 mold.

This type of pressure **can't** be achieved by standing on your molds..
Quick clamps also won't give you this pressure...

Pipe or C-clamps will...

The absolute best is Straight downward pressure, or lateral pressure from say a large vise of some type...
Doesn't matter what is producing the pressure as long as it is even and spread out across the mold.

Standing and rocking is about the worst thing you can do. The knife will slip and move around giving you uneven pressing and a Weak definition on the blade.

You are seeking Crisp ,Clean lines....

If you have any further questions, Please feel free to e-mail me privately..

Hope this helps..

ttyle

Eric....

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On/Scene Tactical
Leading The Way In Quality Synthetic Sheathing
 
What Eric said, although...
I use 3/4" thick camping pad foam both sides and I stand on the mold for the weight (I weigh 215). using 0.060" thick material I get perfect presses. Beautiful. Using 0.093" thick material, I get perfect presses. Beautiful! To each his own, though. I do not rock or anything. Another thing I have found helpful is to concentrate on your fit with the press. You want as tight a press as possible. Once that is taken care of, then you can use smaller localized heat to play with the retention of the sheath. Inititally it's usually too tight. Study your work and see where the retention is coming from...usually it is where the handle starts, although not always. Every sheath will show improvement. I made one last week that was my all time best, and I made one yeterday that beat the pants off of that one, so even after dozens of custom sheaths I still see improvement every time. Good luck! Email anytime.

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Dr. Steve Agocs
http://www.geocities.com/Chiro75/frames.html


agocs_s@hotmail.com
 
Thanks for the help guys. I definitely wasn't using enough pressure, so I'm gonna try some C-clamps on the mold.

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Deny everything, admit nothing, make counter accusations.
 
I found some incredible molding foam at my local hardware store. It's actually a pad you can carry around to kneel on when you are gardening. It's a lot denser than the blue sleeping stuff and about 1" thick by 18"X12". It comes in a light green. It does a super job molding kydex.

Hugh

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King of all that rhymes with Orange!!!
 
Hey Hugh...


Yes I know this type of foam, and it does work well..

If you use these types of foam make sure it has a smooth finish so that it won't impart a print onto the plastic itself..

Other then that it will work...

The rerason I say sleeping pad foam is because it can be Easily found,almost anywhere...


ttyle

Eric...

------------------
On/Scene Tactical
Leading The Way In Quality Synthetic Sheathing
 
Hey there Normark, I know what you mean about the pattern on the foam. It sort of reminds one of a miniscule diamond-plate. I thought it would mark my .060 kydex (heated to 325F) but suprisingly I could detect no trace whatsoever of the foam pattern. I looked pretty hard too.

Hugh



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King of all that rhymes with Orange!!!
 
Hey Chiro....

LOL

Just about,,less 28 tons or so..
smile.gif


3/16ths....

Hmm,, thats cool,,at least it isn't imparting a pattern...Whatever works Eh !!

ttyle

Eric....

------------------
On/Scene Tactical
Leading The Way In Quality Synthetic Sheathing
 
3/16's , I've looked high and low for some good foam material. I'm about to take my Emerson and carve up the wetsuit I just bought and use it in the mold. Seems like a waste of a perfectly good wetsuit, but.............it just sounds like too much fun. I'm gonna look into the gardening pad tho.

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Deny everything, admit nothing, make counter accusations.

[This message has been edited by FUBAR (edited 06-25-2001).]
 
I use the foam from Blade-Tech that is glued to pieces of wood. I don't have a press (haven't figured out how I want to build it yet), so I just stand on it and press against the basement rafters with my outstretched hands to create more downforce. I get perfect forms every time, whether single sided or 3D.

A buddy asked me to do a neck carry sheath for a Seecamp .32 the other day that took a few tries to figure out (3D does NOT work), and eventualy it came out super sweet. This stuff is so easy to work with, it should be called "Miracle Plastic".

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C.O.'s-"It takes balls to work behind the walls "
 
Hey there Fubar, don't cut up your wetsuit. You should be able to find this stuff at your local hardware store in the section that sells things like kneepads, toolbelts, etc. Or your local gardening center. Mine cost about 6 bucks CDN.

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King of all that rhymes with Orange!!!
 
I think the time it takes from the oven to the press is very critical. If Im slow getting everything stacked into the press and the kydex cools too much I dont get deep formation and I end up doing it again. I also think one of those cheap arbor presses like harbor freight sells for $29 would be very fast with plenty of pressure. The handle may not lock down though. Bruce B
 
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