Kydex sheaths Beginner needs advice

R

Russ Josephson

Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
14
Hello from Alaska.

I'm interested in trying to make a few Kydex sheaths. I have never made one, although I have general crafting experience and skills. I need info about choice of materials (Kydex or Concealex, thickness I should use, layering??, etc.), where to get materials at a reasonable price, which designs are good and which aren't, where to find designs, detailed directions for a beginner (what's up with this foam I keep hearing about?), what tools I will need, etc. I'm interested in making sheaths for some straight-bladed knives and possibly for a folder and for a pocket tool.

I will appreciate any and all information.

A free tour of the Kodiak area to anyone who helps and then finds his/her way up here.

Much obliged.

Russ Josephson
 
yeah this would be cool, i have been wondering about this as well. wanted to make a kydex for my throwing hawk, and a multi-tool. please post some info if you have it (hope this isnt stepping on anyones toes who makes a living doing this)

billyp
 
I order kydex from Texas Knifemaker's Supply. It comes in 0.06" or 0.09" thicknesses. I'm sure that there's other places you can order from. You can check out any place that has knifemaking supplies, like Jantz, Koval, etc.

There probably isn't much of a functional difference between kydex and concealex. I haven't tried the latter though.

The foam is used to make the kydex conform to the exact shape of the knife (or whatever you're making the sheath for). Sheathmaking foam is thicker than anything I can manage to find around the house, so I'd suggest that you get one or two 1 square foot pieces along with your kydex.

There's two popular ways you can make a sheath. One involves wrapping one piece of kydex around the blade (pancake style). The other involves shaping one piece to the blade, and attaching this to a flat piece of Kydex. This latter method isn't very suitable for anything thicker than a knife blade, unless the thing has a flat side that can rest against the flat sheet of kydex.

Here's some links with complete instructions:

"Kydex sheath for my sheepsfoot", by Jens Anso

Two ways to make pancake style kydex sheaths (this is in the other place).

Oh, you might want to wear a respirator or ensure adequate ventilation while you're making the sheath. I'm terribly sensitive to bad burning plastic smells, and got a terrible headache from smelling the PVC heating up in the oven.
 
Many thanks! I've searched the discussions somewhat, but it's very time-consuming. I'm sure you've saved me a lot of effort.

It still sounds a bit daunting. I guess after doing one or two it becomes more routine. Was trying to figure out how to cut the Kydex so as to have a one-piece sheath with rivets on the sharp side and a long piece at the top to loop over to form a beltloop. I think I will be able to get it all straight with those directions.

I have to say the knifemaker/collector community is very friendly and supportive.


Thanks again.
 
you should see them flame
whoo boy :D

there's a local shop knife that's making kydex sheaths
pretty good worksmanship using blocks of resin as moulds for the kydex
but i still prefer concealex though
 
Russ
I'd be glad to give you some tips and insight about making sheaths.
Only one problem, I will be in the shop today and for most of tomorrow, then I'll be out of pocket thru May 6th, then back for 3 days(May 7,8 & 9 then I'm off to your neck of the woods for a spring bear hunt. If you can catch me while I am in the office I will make the time to talk with you.

Blade-Tech Ph# 253-581-4347
Thanks
Tim
 
That's very generous. Will try to reach you. If you're indeed coming to Kodiak, please call me. I'm in the book here. Maybe I can make you a fish dinner while we chat. By the way, Alaska salmon is much better for you than farmed stuff. We don't feed the fish antibiotics or dye to make them look natural.
 
Making a Kydex sheath is easy. Making a good Kydex sheath takes a lot of practice.

Getting a good system down for molding is a big part of it but knowing how to relieve the sheath to make it fuction well and not scratch the heck out of your blade in the process is another thing entirely.

I think the best place for resources on this forum is the Makers and Manufacturers section where Kydex is dicussed quite frequently. I have seen people mention a hundred ways of how they do it and it all comes down to finding a method that is good for you.

I have been making sheaths for about 3 years and have thrown away dozens of them I was not happy with, so buy plenty of material and be prepared to not like a few of them.

My systems is set up as follows:

2 -3/4 pieces of plywood
2 pieces of 2" dense foam padding
8" Woodworkers vise or bench vise
Scroll Saw
1x42" belt sander, 8" disc sander
Drill, bits and counter sink
2 Pot holders
Toaster oven or household oven depending on size of sheath
Scroll saw and tin snips
Dremel tool with sanding disc only if needed
Heat gun for clips


1. Basically I heat my Kydex in the oven until soft and easy to manipulate.

2. Clamp it between the foam and plywood for 10 minutes.

3. Rough cut my outline form on the scroll saw and use tin snips for anywhere I only want one layer cut.

4. Drill holes for my Chicago screws and check insertion and release of the blade, note any changes that need to be made to allow knife to release properly.

5. Sand to form on Belt/Disc sander and I only use the Dremel as a last resort if the other sander won't fit a curve.

6. Remove the screws and completely wash interior/exterior of sheath for debris.

7. Screw back together and check fit, adjust as needed with combination of stock removal or light heat gun.

8. Final sanding of edges to round and smooth them out.

9. Wash inside and out again.


For my clips I use a standard G clip or Tek-Lok. To make the G-Clip I have a piece of Oak I have formed to be the size I want the clip to be. I use the heat gun and pot holders to just heat the areas where the clip will be folded around the form as to prevent the gun from softening area's that have already been done.

Once formed I cut it to the proper width and fit it to the sheath.


IMO, the key to doing good Kydex is to not put the knife into the sheath at any point during sanding without a good bath first - this prevents debris from getting lodged in the material and always being a scratch hazard. Kydex won't scratch a blade but debris you have in there will.

Here's a batch I just finished a couple of weeks ago.


images\kydex\2.jpg



Good luck and have fun!
 
Much obliged! I find a lot of variation in the approaches taken, all right. I guess I need to just do some trial and error.

I enjoyed your pictures, although my computer reproduced them a bit dark. I think I see a sheath with a Leatherman Wave in there. It appears to be a double sheath with something else. Cool.

One question I haven't seen answered: Is there any problem making a sheath when the knife is rubber-handled, as my Buck Vanguard is. Will the heated Kydex mess up the rubber handle?

Thanks again for the advice.
 
Russ, If you get the Kydex really hot it may leave a shiny spot on the Kraton and at worst flaten the texturing just a bit. If you are worried about it try putting a single layer of masking tape over the Kraton and it will help to minimize that.

The Leatherman is a Supertool 200 and the extra stuff you see is just the clip and hardware.

I should have also mentioned that the green material in my photo is Concealex.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the info.

I imagine a two-pocket sheath for a pocket tool and a folder, for example, could be done by an experienced Kydexer. I look forward to being that skilled.

About clips, are the Tek Loks multiposition clips? I have seen something that's supposed to fit on properly-spaced eyelets on sheath edges. I'm guessing the clip is springloaded and rotates so the pegs on one side slip into corresponding holes on the other half. Is that about right?
 
I've done Piggy back sheaths before, they come out nice but lose some of the attractive lines of the Kydex. I also try to minimize bulk which does not happen with a piggy back.

The Tek-LoK is basically a clamshell design that locks open and closed. It has a series of holes on the back and you just need a couple of corresponding holes in your Kydex to be able to carry it in any number of positions. Very cool design.

I think the only draw back to it is that you have to wear it on a strap or belt. It would be nice if they could modicy the design to also be clipped to a waistband when not wearing a belt. So I tend to make more clips than use the Tek-Lok as I don't usually wear a belt outside of work.
 
Thanks for the clarification.
I was thinking of side-by-side rather than piggyback, actually. I've made leather and nylon/cordura sheaths and cases, etc. Thought I'd try something different.

I generally use a belt, so I'm thinking in different terms. I have tried using the integrated clips on some folders, but (other than a tuck-the-end-under modification that I made on a softer metal type clip on one knife) they don't hold securely, so I don't trust them. I know some folks like them, but that's what makes the world go around.
 
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