Maintanance For A Superglue-Finished Handle

Big Bob

Big Bob

Joined
Oct 13, 1999
Messages
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The handles on my khuks are due for a coating of Boiled Linseed oil. My repaired 18" AK has a superglue finished handle. Will boiled linseed oil damage the superglue in any way?

Bob
 
Originally posted by Big Bob
The handles on my khuks are due for a coating of Boiled Linseed oil. My repaired 18" AK has a superglue finished handle. Will boiled linseed oil damage the superglue in any way?

Bob
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Bob, I doubt the linseed oil or anything else will actually penetrate a super glue finish and I don't believe the oil would hurt the finish in any way.
It may be possible a little oil will get into the wood around the butt cap and bolster if it's not sealed off completely.
A little oil and rottenstone really brings out the polish though.:)

I did the super glue finish on one of my Flutes to keep anything from penetrating it from the outside.
The reason I did that was to stop the slight cracking I was getting when I took the Flute into the Sweatlodge.
Moisture can still enter from the inside of the Flute as I didn't seal it, so far so good. The Flute I finished with polyurethane still has slight cracking problems if I take it into the Lodge and one of these days I will put the super glue finish on it as well.

You sure need to do it outside when you're working with as much wet glue as I do when putting the finish on.
It gets very overpowering really quickly with the eyes really burning and watering from the fumes, let alone what it does to the breathing.:eek:
 
Originally posted by Yvsa

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You sure need to do it outside when you're working with as much wet glue as I do when putting the finish on.
It gets very overpowering really quickly with the eyes really burning and watering from the fumes, let alone what it does to the breathing.:eek:
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I would avoid putting a paper sack over my head too. :D
 
Bob,
I have never bothered putting more Linseed Oil or anything of the sort on any of the knives I have done the superglue finish to. I figured that the Superglue would never let it penetrate.

I dont know if I told you or not, sorry if I havent, but I finished your 18"AK first in a quick dip of Murphy's Oil Soap. After Boiling the Handle to get it off I was trying to slow the drying process so that the crack wouldent grow. Needless to say, it grew.

After drying, 2-3 days, I dipped it in 50/50 Linseed and Turpentine to replace what Murphy's and Water there was left in the wood. This continued around one dip every couple of days for a long while. (I lost count of how many dips it got.)

After that I sanded the whole thing down and saved the sand dust to mix with epoxy. Then repeated the process to the handle to make it as dark as the sawdust.

I noticed that the epoxy turned the sawdust a darker shade than the handle after the epoxy dryed in the crack so I went at the handle again with Birchowwd Casy's Gunstock Finish to darken it to look like the epoxy filled crack. I could never get the handle as dark as the little streak where the crack was.

The Superglue finish is the last thing I did before I shipped the knife to you. If you do get more linseed oil into the finish it will be around the bolster and the buttcap. However, due to the way I epoxyed both the bolster and the buttcap (Dont worry guys, I peened the keeper as well) you might not be able to get any in there.

Just keeping you notified on your blade.

How is she treating you?
 
Yvsa, I don't know what kind of wood you are using, but if it is red Cedar like the Natives in this part of TX. The best thing I have found to seal it with that doesn't change the color as much as poly and varnishes is plain old Hohnson's paste wax. The kind my wife used on the wood floors.
Maybe you have already tried it and it doesn' do it for you, but I have had pretty good luck.
 
Originally posted by Pappy
Yvsa, I don't know what kind of wood you are using, but if it is red Cedar like the Natives in this part of TX. The best thing I have found to seal it with that doesn't change the color as much as poly and varnishes is plain old Hohnson's paste wax. The kind my wife used on the wood floors.
Maybe you have already tried it and it doesn' do it for you, but I have had pretty good luck.
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Thanks Pappy.:)
It's the same red Cedar or more properly called Juniper, but I don't know anyone who calls it by that name.
I use the Johnson's wax too on several different items. It's excellent on my scroll saw table in preventing rust for one
example.
I have also used it on some of my Flutes as well, but nothing does the job quite like the super glue finish for use in hot and wet conditions such as in the Sweatlodge. It's almost the same as putting a coat of pure glass on the wood.
The first coats of super glue to cover such a large piece will make you think you've ruined the project.
The finish is rough and not at all even. Sanding the high spots off between coats leaves the finish scratched and still uneven on such a large piece, carefully filling the low spots and subsequent sandings will start bring everything level.
Then when you think you've got enough on the project and start using finer and finer grits until you get to a 0000 steel wool then it starts looking pretty nice.
Finishing it off with rottenstone and oil will bring a highly polished finish hard as glass.
 
Dave, I haven't had the chance to chop anything with my AK lately, but thanks for the info on the superglue finish (and thanks for everyone else's input). I guess that's one less handle to treat every other month or so. :)

Bob
 
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