Marine Tuff Cloth

K

kremeking

Joined
Feb 15, 2001
Messages
70
Ok Guys, I have quick question about the tuf-cloth.

I've used most of the products mentioned on this forum over the last three years except the marine tuff cloth which I ordered and received this week. Only problem is, I like my users to stay nice and shiny despite the scratches and "Work scars" they bear.

This is important because I am constantly giving wilderness survival seminars and although I don't mind a patina many of those who attend the seminars that I am invited to need to see a bright shiny work blade (Don't ask why) and this helps me sell them on uncle's knives as well as the kick butt demos I give using them.

Okay,enough rambling: The question/problem I have is that when I apply the marine tuf cloth, I get a terribly greasy haze when it dries, and I am applying it right after I clean and polish the blades, per the instructions on the package. Are you guys that use this product getting similiar results and if so, how do you solve this? How do you take advantage of the coating and at the same time keep a well polished blade? My blades are crying polish me hold me:D :D


Thanks ahead of time for the seasoned advice

Byron
Shalom
 
I haven't used Tuff Cloth, but if the haze it leaves can't be rubbed down to a "presentable" appearance (and still leave a protective film), here may be an alternative - yeah, I know, after you've already bought the other stuff :)
I ran across an automotive wheel cleaner called Duragloss 870 - impregnated cotton waste in a can. You tear out a swab of the stuff, apply it to the metal, and the swab can be returned to the can and re-used, if it doesn't pick up too much gunk in the first use. It takes off sap and tree debris (it's formulated for road film, brake dust, etc.) and the film it leaves rubs away. A coat of auto wax will adhere to whatever is left of the film, and the blade is showroom presentable, "honor marks" and all.
There is no warning on the can (I guess not many peope clean their mag wheels in a Lazy Boy :rolleyes: ) but this stuff gives off some eye-watering fumes.
 
I use Marine Tuf-Cloth, and it seems to work OK (no rust!), and I like the concept. I worry that the wooden interior of the scabbard can wick away an oily coating, and Tuf-Cloth is supposed to "bond" with the metal. At least it's dry.

Anyway, I think it's OK to buff the blade back to shiny after the Tuf-Cloth coating dries. At least, that's what I do.

I use it periodically and each time after I've used the khukuri.

Chris
 
Tuff Cloth is very popular, and, embarrassed by my ignorance, I just scanned their site. My guess is that a little more rubbing with a dry T-shirt will bring back the shine on your blade without reducing the protection. The carrier for the protectants, according to the site, is a mineral oil. That would seem to be the "greasy film" left after drying. They describe their lube and protectant agents as "micro-crystalline", and I doubt if hand rubbing will remove them to any degree after the oil carrier has dried - Just keep on rubbin' :D
 
Wal, I tell you. I have rubbed ad infinitem and all I get is swirls of residue. What I actually did was coat all but the firs 1/2 inch from the tip of my YCS just to see if their was any noticiable effect on the finish. It seems no matter how hard I rub with this t-shirt, the coated areas never get as blaringly shiny as the untreated area.
Up to this point I have been using turtle wax chrome polish which works very well. I'll keep experimenting I guess. May have to take it to a wheel eventually.

I actually ordered several packets of the stuff to be sold with the other items at my table including fire starters and pistons,lights, etc. and a variety of HI's khukuris set up for demo. If I can't find a workable solution to the challenge I will have to give them away as I have a policy never to sell anything that I can't personally vouch for through actually use. Anymore info on this product from the professionals will be greatly appreciated.
 
Byron have you asked this same question over in the custom forum?
Those that collect the fancy jobs may be better able to tell you any "tricks" to using the Tuffcloth.:)
 
I just asked the dust bunnies what they used and they just growled and snapped at me. They remind me of the kamis.
 
Yvsa, No I haven't asked in the other forums. I figured that since there were so many here that spoke of using it a good amount experience would be here to guide me. I will take your suggestion, though I seldom visit the other forums. About to take the easy way out and just stick to what I have used to this point. Try to polish the AK a few more times , but just isn't the same. I want the protection and the mirror shine. Maybe not posssible.
 
krem,
I've been using Tuff on all my stuff for a long time ,including customs & my H&K pistol,no problems! What I do is,wipe it on,wait a while(not long)then wipe it off lightly!Have had no rust ! Will test it tonight & give you a more detaied answer tomorrow!!
jim
 
While I hate to recommend something I haven't used myself, people who collect high dollar customs often use Rennaisance Wax. It is made to protect museum quality items. It's expensive, about $25 for a little tub, but they say it goes a very long way. It would have to be applied after each use, as would tuff cloth.
Steve Ferguson
 
But I like to use Break Free on my WW2. I put a few drops on the blade wipe it on,let it sit a few minutes,wipe it off.It does leave a very,very thin coat on the blade.It's not enough to come off in the scabbard and it doesn't discolor the blade. Plus it helps keeps stains from vegetation and wood down to a minnimum and makes them easy to wipe off.I wipe the the blade down about once a month and have never had a spec of rust.
Hope this helps.
 
Originally a gun care product..U put this stuff on in a semi-heavy coat like WD-40--smooth down w/tshirt or paper towel and wipe dry next day.. reapply lighter coat..it will dry much faster..wipe off when dry..then at your discression u can apply another coat if u wish..

aftr the application of your last coat wipe the item down with a soft lint free cloth or paper toweling..your khuk/ blade/weapon etc smells like lemon pledge and wont rust to save a dust bunnies butt.

You can use it to detail clean firearms of course--and the best news is as long as u use only EEZOX--it just gets easier and easier..Old residues will pop up..EEZOX impregnates metal..wipe them out or clean w/ WONDERLEMON again and I swear by my 18 in ak you wont be sorry dudes..

Dont use it on Kreyton--Kydex etc--it disolves fouling so u get the picture..It might weaken HI EPOXY..I dunno so be careful..:)

I HATE FREEKIN RUST!!!!!!!!:mad:
 
Originally posted by Stoneage
But I like to use Break Free on my WW2. I put a few drops on the blade wipe it on,let it sit a few minutes,wipe it off.It does leave a very,very thin coat on the blade.It's not enough to come off in the scabbard and it doesn't discolor the blade. Plus it helps keeps stains from vegetation and wood down to a minnimum and makes them easy to wipe off.I wipe the the blade down about once a month and have never had a spec of rust.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Stoneage, Welcome to the Cantina. I didn't see you slide in before.:)
And don't be afraid to recommend anything you've used that works.
Ha'il I used to recommend Olive Oil before I learned better as it was non toxic, that is until it went rancid anyway and started hanging up the khuk in the scabbard.:o
It took several treatments of silicone spray to get things slicked back up again.:D
 
I too use BREAK FREE on most of my stuff that just sits in the scabbards. The stuff I show off and I play with alot, Jewel and M43, I use REMOIL. REMOIL has a Teflon base and leaves a really really thin coat of whatever is in that little bottle. 1oz has lasted me around 6-8 months now. Needless to say a little goes a very long way.
 
Actually two. My personal preferance is Boeshield. This was developed by/for Boeing to protect and lubricate aircraft parts but it works well on guns and knives as well.

Something I haven't tried but which comes highly reccomended is something called Ballistol. Master bladesmith Jim Hrisoulas endorses and sells it on his website.

www.atar.com
 
Here's my approach (from the FAQ). I find that buffing with a cloth takes off the cloudy residue.

_____________________

I find that my khukuris fall into two categories. They are either users or display/weapons. With users, appearance is secondary.
The primary concern in care is ease of care and preserving the life of the tool.
For knives in the display/weapon category I want to preserve the smooth bright finish and the sharp edge during long periods of
nonuse. I don't mind investing some time in care initially, but I don't want to have to keep returning to the knife to care for it.

In order to preserve the bright finish and sharp edge of display/weapon knives with minimal effort I have arrived at the following
process.

1. Sharpen blade to desired state.
2. Wipe blade down with Marine Tuff-Cloth.
3. Let blade dry.
4. Buff off cloudy residue with a cloth.
5. Coat blade, handle, karda, chakma, and sheath with a thin layer of Renaissance Wax.
6. Buff waxed surfaces with cloth.
7. Put blade away until needed.

This treatment will preserve the finish and the sharp edge on a blade that is not in use for some time.

Using blades see frequent use around the house and in the field. They are handy tools but I don't devote a lot of attention to
them. They get an initial wipe down with Marine Tuff-Cloth when I first get them. After use I wipe the crud off the blade with a
scotch-brite pad, then wipe the blade dry and put it away. This treatment only requires a 20 second stop by the sink on my
way into the house. The finish on these using blades quickly becomes a dull gray.

I occasionally treat the wood handles of the users to a rubdown with linseed oil. The horn handles receive rubdowns with
lanolin or Hooflex occasionally. If I am going to put one of the users away for some time I may give the blade a protective coat
of mineral oil or wax.

Hooflex is a hoof treatment available in feed stores. It is made of pine tar and lanolin. It smells good and shines the horn handles
right up.
 
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