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MOD Plunge Lock
- Thread starter BryanH
- Start date
I just got a MOD CQD Mk II about a week ago.
I haven't had a chance to really test it out yet, but I have some initial opinions.
The plunge lock consists of
1- a cutout/dip in the top edge of the blade, and
2- a spring-loaded pin/cam, in the exact negative shape of the slot
Unlike some other locks, where the pin rides along the edge of the tang, this one is pushed along the SIDE of the blade by the spring, riding along the edge as the blade rotates to open and close.
Once the blade is opened all the way, the spring pushes the pin into the cutout and the blade is now locked. There is no stop pin; instead, the ambidextrous thumbstuds brace the blade up against the flare in the top of the grip.
The unlocking button is tight and small. I can't disengage it using only the pad of my thumb, without using my thumbnail (and I have small hands.) It seems difficult to disengage with gloves on.
Overall, lockup is extremely tight. There is absolutely no play at all, while maintaining a smooth and moderately tight action.
Because the pin is constantly pushed up against the blade, frictional forces do apply to the action. In this way, it's impossible (or so it seems so far) to have the blade very loose, like I have the setup on another linerlock of mine (although the loose action equates to a bit of play when open, many linerlocks also get jumpy when tightened too much, and I'm not doing any SD with it...)
It also took a number of solid hours of work to get the action non-gritty (as evidenced by an earlier post of mine.)
I originally chose the plunge lock because it wasn't friction-loaded like linerlocks, and I've had some close encounters (under duress) with normally-behaving linerlocks. I also have seen the lock wear down to the point of creeping entirely across the blade and loosening up to the point of being easily disengaged -- whereupon it seems to need some professional services (or a prompt EOL...)
I wonder, though, after seeing the mechanism, whether sufficient use will cause the plunge lock to develop some permanent play. If there's any inaccuracy or abuse to the locking pin or slot, it looks like the lockup could get loose. Furthermore, it's not self-healing/adjusting like linerlocks.
Either way, it's a very nice locking action. It's extremely solid, there's very little fear of mistakenly unlocking the blade (and the CQD's safety reduces it even more), and it's not subject to the same wear as a liner.
Hope this helps.
-Jon
I haven't had a chance to really test it out yet, but I have some initial opinions.
The plunge lock consists of
1- a cutout/dip in the top edge of the blade, and
2- a spring-loaded pin/cam, in the exact negative shape of the slot
Unlike some other locks, where the pin rides along the edge of the tang, this one is pushed along the SIDE of the blade by the spring, riding along the edge as the blade rotates to open and close.
Once the blade is opened all the way, the spring pushes the pin into the cutout and the blade is now locked. There is no stop pin; instead, the ambidextrous thumbstuds brace the blade up against the flare in the top of the grip.
The unlocking button is tight and small. I can't disengage it using only the pad of my thumb, without using my thumbnail (and I have small hands.) It seems difficult to disengage with gloves on.
Overall, lockup is extremely tight. There is absolutely no play at all, while maintaining a smooth and moderately tight action.
Because the pin is constantly pushed up against the blade, frictional forces do apply to the action. In this way, it's impossible (or so it seems so far) to have the blade very loose, like I have the setup on another linerlock of mine (although the loose action equates to a bit of play when open, many linerlocks also get jumpy when tightened too much, and I'm not doing any SD with it...)
It also took a number of solid hours of work to get the action non-gritty (as evidenced by an earlier post of mine.)
I originally chose the plunge lock because it wasn't friction-loaded like linerlocks, and I've had some close encounters (under duress) with normally-behaving linerlocks. I also have seen the lock wear down to the point of creeping entirely across the blade and loosening up to the point of being easily disengaged -- whereupon it seems to need some professional services (or a prompt EOL...)
I wonder, though, after seeing the mechanism, whether sufficient use will cause the plunge lock to develop some permanent play. If there's any inaccuracy or abuse to the locking pin or slot, it looks like the lockup could get loose. Furthermore, it's not self-healing/adjusting like linerlocks.
Either way, it's a very nice locking action. It's extremely solid, there's very little fear of mistakenly unlocking the blade (and the CQD's safety reduces it even more), and it's not subject to the same wear as a liner.
Hope this helps.
-Jon
Bronco
Moderator
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2000
- Messages
- 7,580
Plunge locks don't get discussed around here nearly as much as liner, frame and Axis locks, which is something of a shame in my mind, because they're a time-tested and reliable locking mechanism. They're especially resistant to blade torqueing forces which, in certain cases, can decrease the reliability of some liner and frame type locks. About the only way the plunge lock can fail mechanically is if the plunge itself is sheared (a situation which would require the application of a tremedous amount of force).
A more legitimate concern, however, is the possibility of inadvertantly unlocking the blade during vigorous use by accidentally contacting the plunger button. Most quality manufacturers (such as MOD) guard against this by either slightly recessing the button into the handle, or by building up a shallow collar to surround the button. Only by evaluating your intended use, and the safety features built into the blade can you determine if a plunge lock is right for you. Along these lines, it's worth noting that MOD includes a secondary slide lock to further preclude the accidental deactivation of the plunge lock during use.
Jon,
I wouldn't worry too much about having to baby your CQD for fear of the tight blade lock-up eventually loosening. Not only does MOD stand behind their products and intend for them to be used vigorously, but in most plunge lock designs I've seen, the sides of the plunge lock are ever so slightly beveled so as to self-compensate for any wear that might occur over time.
A more legitimate concern, however, is the possibility of inadvertantly unlocking the blade during vigorous use by accidentally contacting the plunger button. Most quality manufacturers (such as MOD) guard against this by either slightly recessing the button into the handle, or by building up a shallow collar to surround the button. Only by evaluating your intended use, and the safety features built into the blade can you determine if a plunge lock is right for you. Along these lines, it's worth noting that MOD includes a secondary slide lock to further preclude the accidental deactivation of the plunge lock during use.
Jon,
I wouldn't worry too much about having to baby your CQD for fear of the tight blade lock-up eventually loosening. Not only does MOD stand behind their products and intend for them to be used vigorously, but in most plunge lock designs I've seen, the sides of the plunge lock are ever so slightly beveled so as to self-compensate for any wear that might occur over time.
Bronco,
Sweet!
Thanks again for your quick comments. You've always been very helpful.
I have a question: Where else are plunge locks used? This is the only knife I've seen that uses it. Supposedly automatics have them extensively, but I haven't seen much confirmation of this.
(Microtech says it has a "Constant Torsion Spring", which sounds more like the propulsion mechanism rather than the locking mechanism.)
Why don't more knives use them? Is it because the tolerances to build it are very tight (a millimetre off and it looks like the pin would slip...)
Also, do you know if MOD is associated with Microtech? Their build and quality look very similar.
I wasn't -terribly- worried that she'd get loose, mind you... just a little overprotective, let's say.
It'll be only a few more days before she starts getting the same abuse as all the rest of my knives... daily MAIL-OPENING duty!!!
~dum dum dum~
-Jon
Sweet!
Thanks again for your quick comments. You've always been very helpful.
I have a question: Where else are plunge locks used? This is the only knife I've seen that uses it. Supposedly automatics have them extensively, but I haven't seen much confirmation of this.
(Microtech says it has a "Constant Torsion Spring", which sounds more like the propulsion mechanism rather than the locking mechanism.)
Why don't more knives use them? Is it because the tolerances to build it are very tight (a millimetre off and it looks like the pin would slip...)
Also, do you know if MOD is associated with Microtech? Their build and quality look very similar.
I wasn't -terribly- worried that she'd get loose, mind you... just a little overprotective, let's say.
It'll be only a few more days before she starts getting the same abuse as all the rest of my knives... daily MAIL-OPENING duty!!!
~dum dum dum~
-Jon
Bronco:
I think the reason plunge locks are not evaluated here more, is that they are found most often on autos, which are not readily available to most members, except for LEO's, etc.
That said, MOD seems to have done an excellent job with the QC on it's CQD line. Time will tell, but mine has not developed even a tiny bit of play and in regular use, gives me a great deal of confidence as to it's reliability.
I think the reason plunge locks are not evaluated here more, is that they are found most often on autos, which are not readily available to most members, except for LEO's, etc.
That said, MOD seems to have done an excellent job with the QC on it's CQD line. Time will tell, but mine has not developed even a tiny bit of play and in regular use, gives me a great deal of confidence as to it's reliability.
Bronco
Moderator
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2000
- Messages
- 7,580
knifenerd,
I think you're absolutely right. This is but another reason why I think the proliferation of laws against autos are so unfortunate. Not only does the vast majority of law abiding citizens miss out on the opportunity to own an entire style of folder with an extremely high gadget factor, but they also, as a result, largely miss out on an excellent and very reliable locking mechanism as well.
Jon and Examon,
Thanks for the kind words.
Jon, I think the main reason plunge locks aren't seen more often on manual action folders can be attributed to A) its relative lack of notoriety amongst the non-knifenut public (for the reasons explained by knifenerd), and B) because in this era where the one-handed opening and closing tactical folder is deemed an absolute marketing must, the one-handed closing of a plunge lock can take a bit longer to master. This latter point doesn't pose nearly as much of a concern to the auto builder because two hands are often used for closing so as to safely overcome the tension offered by the spring mechanism as it's being reset.