Modding my M-Type

U

untamed

Joined
Jan 7, 2003
Messages
5,445
After almost a year of waiting, I finally got my M-Type!

It's all I ever hoped it would be and really a great user EDC. I could see it giving me several years of service. After two days of having sore thumbs because of the stiffness, I took it apart, spritzed it with WD-40 and loosened the pivot. Now it's even "flickable" with a snap of the wrist!

I do have some questions though -

1. How do you guys re-sharpen the recurve blade? I don't have any fancy technical sharpening thingy and do it freehand. I taped a fine grit sand paper and stuck it on a round aluminum rod and followed the contours of the blade. Anybody wanna share how they do theirs? I'm all for more efficient and simpler methods :thumbup:.

2. I really want to drill some holes on the steel liner of the G10 side to lighten the weight a bit. The thing is though, I've already stripped TWO (2) sets of allen wrenches trying to take apart the screws! Has this side been applied with loctite? The screws on the all metal lock-side came out with no problems. Has anyone ever attempted this?

TIA guys!
 
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They're Torx screws... not allen/hex screws (despite what they look like - I too thought they were hex screws at first). You can probably get replacement screws from Boker.
That's probably the main reason.

And I'm sure a lot of us have "stripped the M-type" ;).

Sounds like a fun mod - do let us know how it works out.
 
I screwed up some screws tinkering with my Direkt too:o!

Senobdec is correct you need torx instead of philips/hex.

Mine where loctited blue. I would recommand heating up the screws a bit with a paint stripper our hair blower on max before unscrewing.

For sharpening recurves and hawkbills i use the 204 set & duckfoot from spyderco ( duckfoot is diamond coated for more agressive touchup's). I strop on a tube of clay coated paper.

I would be very reluctant drilling holes in the lockside metal . It could result in to weak a handle with minimal weightloss.
 
Maarten said:
I screwed up some screws tinkering with my Direkt too:o!

Senobdec is correct you need torx instead of philips/hex.

Mine where loctited blue. I would recommand heating up the screws a bit with a paint stripper our hair blower on max before unscrewing.

For sharpening recurves and hawkbills i use the 204 set & duckfoot from spyderco ( duckfoot is diamond coated for more agressive touchup's). I strop on a tube of clay coated paper.

I would be very reluctant drilling holes in the lockside metal . It could result in to weak a handle with minimal weightloss.
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Thanks for the info guys!

Hey! I too initially thought they were Torx (being the unofficial industry standard nowadays) but when I tried to borrow a set from a mechanic/DIY friend of mine, he said they allen-type! The thing is though they worked out well on the pivot as well as the lock bar side as I already "stripped" mine. I even changed it to tip-up carry. It's on the G10 side that became a PITA! Hmmmm. . .

Maarten, I was thinking of drilling holes the liner on the G10 side, not on the lockbar side. But as you observed, I also noticed the "bluish" tint on the screws which made me suspect they were loctited.
 
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Nope, they are Torx screws.
A #6 for the handle, and a #8 for the pivot.
I would be wary of drilling any additional holes, as it could weaken the knife, but if you do it, let us now how it goes.
Terry
 
^ Copy that.

I didn't want to sound I was insisting on them being allen's, just that they did work out OK in my case when I disassembled it (except on the G10 side as was observed being with loctite). May have to get a torx set of my own ;)

Hope to post a brief review soon on this well-designed folder.
 
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More than likely those screws are 2-56's. If you will give me a shipping address I will send you a few to replace the ones that got stripped. You will probably have to cut them to size as they are about 3/4" long. These are #6 torx. Let me know.:D
 
Oy Manong!!!

:D!!!

Glad you got your M-TYPE, and I must agree with you. I dunno what's up with the screws on these latest releases, but I have used with greater success, Allen wrenches to make clip changes! Could it just be a "Filipino t'ing"?:p

Anyway, I say go for it...drill some holes in that SS Liner under the G10. But do so with care and don't go over board. You also know that this will void warranty, right? I wonder though, if a SS liner can be purchased separately?

As for sharpening the recurve....I got one tip por you dat I gabe to my priend in Slobakia...okay...ehhhhhh, do you hab a sharrrrrrrpening shtone? Ip you do, hold de shtone bertically and den ehhhhh, angle/tilt de shtone (you can use a protractorrrrrrrr to get de angle) den use de corner ob da shtone to sharpen! Dis works just like de...ehhhhhh, Sharrrrrpmaker! I hab done dis bepore to sharpen my Spyderco Police bepore I got de Sharpmaker and it works!!! :p:rolleyes::D

Seriously, it does work, even on serrations...let me know manong how dis works...

God bless and take care!;)
 
cutter17 said:
More than likely those screws are 2-56's. If you will give me a shipping address I will send you a few to replace the ones that got stripped. You will probably have to cut them to size as they are about 3/4" long. These are #6 torx. Let me know.:D
Click to expand...

cutter17...you are the man. What a great gesture!:thumbup:

God bless you sir!:cool:
 
cutter17 said:
More than likely those screws are 2-56's. If you will give me a shipping address I will send you a few to replace the ones that got stripped. You will probably have to cut them to size as they are about 3/4" long. These are #6 torx. Let me know.:D
Click to expand...

Yes, Nice gesture, but I'm betting they are M2.5 not #2-56.... Haven't taken apart an M-Type yet, but every Boker I have has used metric hardware.
 
cutter17 said:
More than likely those screws are 2-56's. If you will give me a shipping address I will send you a few to replace the ones that got stripped. You will probably have to cut them to size as they are about 3/4" long. These are #6 torx. Let me know.:D
Click to expand...

A most AWESOME gesture indeed!

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Life would get a bit better if we had more decent and generous folks like these. My deep appreciation for the offer. :D
 
Daywalker said:
Oy Manong!!!

:D!!!

Glad you got your M-TYPE, and I must agree with you. I dunno what's up with the screws on these latest releases, but I have used with greater success, Allen wrenches to make clip changes! Could it just be a "Filipino t'ing"?:p

Anyway, I say go for it...drill some holes in that SS Liner under the G10. But do so with care and don't go over board. You also know that this will void warranty, right? I wonder though, if a SS liner can be purchased separately?

As for sharpening the recurve....I got one tip por you dat I gabe to my priend in Slobakia...okay...ehhhhhh, do you hab a sharrrrrrrpening shtone? Ip you do, hold de shtone bertically and den ehhhhh, angle/tilt de shtone (you can use a protractorrrrrrrr to get de angle) den use de corner ob da shtone to sharpen! Dis works just like de...ehhhhhh, Sharrrrrpmaker! I hab done dis bepore to sharpen my Spyderco Police bepore I got de Sharpmaker and it works!!! :p:rolleyes::D

Seriously, it does work, even on serrations...let me know manong how dis works...

God bless and take care!;)
Click to expand...

Kuya dude, pleeeasee don't don't call me manong :eek: Yesh, I am pamilyar with dish teknik and hab eben used it on my old Endura bepor! Yap! No kidding! No milking! :D

Still, it is gonna be a bit tricky though negotiating the contours on the curves.

I'm now having second thoughts if I am going to push thru with drilling the holes. The "heft" is growing on me so to speak especially since last night I was doing knife drills and FMA applications. :)
 
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untamed said:
Kuya dude, pleeeasee don't don't call me manong :eek: Yesh, I am pamilyar with dish teknik and hab eben used it on my old Endura bepor! Yap! No kidding! No milking! :D

Still, it is gonna be a bit tricky though negotiating the contours on the curves.

I'm now having second thoughts if I am going to push thru with drilling the holes. The "heft" is growing on me so to speak especially since last night I was doing knife drills and FMA applications. :)
Click to expand...

:D:p:D:p!!!

Berrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry punny you!

Seriously, I am glad the "heft" is something you are getting used too...it really isn't all that bad ya know...;) Go grab a DIREKT later...it is the "Pacquiao" of polding knibes!:thumbup:

God bless and take care bro!:cool:
 
Now stop drinking guys weekend is over!! lol

Untamed;

Mtype overall weight is 130.41 grams approx. lets say the liner is 25 grams ( i dont know) . cutting holes will say loose 50 % weight makes 12.5 grams. I don't know if that would be worth the trouble?

For the record the catalog states G4 to be 154 grams ?? compared to Direkt weighing 120something.

which reminds me to zjarpen my Direkt which is blunt like marshmaloowmans butt.

(I cut a tin sheet.)

The duggiefootie might come in handy . AS u zee iz haz roundez corners so alzeu viry goud for zzzerrazionz...

duckfoot2.jpg



duckfoot1.jpg




;)
 
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