More, more, more designs (bush sword?)

not2sharp

not2sharp

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This design is for a large tree chopping two handed camp knife. The two handed grip allows a maximum of force to be applied from the hip providing an additional margin of safety during the followthrough. The fullers are "J" shaped and used to reduce the initial blade thickness and improve the final edge angle (the higher side of the "J" is 4/8 inch while the lower part is 3/8 inch.

OAL = 31.5 inches
Blade= 21 inches
Handle= Horn/wood (two handed) 9.5 inches long
Spine= 0.5 inch
Fullers= (in yellow) 1/16" on each side, to reduce blade thickness
Edge= Convex continuous 1" reduction from 3/8 inch to final edge
Tang= (shown In green) exposed along the back (very heavy)
Pommel/Guard = Steel (welded in place)

What do you think?

N2S


Sketch below:
 
This would be a typical cross section taken at the 1.7 inch measure just in front of the guard.
 
A two-hander khuk is a useful tool; I can get both hands easily on my heavy 25" sirupati (the 3lb monster with the half-inch-plus spine), which makes it a practical proposition.

I like the blade shape, and the use of fullers.

Not entirely sure about the handle; all due respect, but I feel it's (a) overengineered (b) liable to upset the balance (c) likely to cause excessive handshock in use. Also, I don't like the thought of arc or torch welding on a blade once it's been heat-treated, and I'm also wary of welding mild steel to high-carbon.

A suggestion for you; have a full (chiruwa) tang, about 1/4" thick, which is drawn out & back in a nice easy taper, tapering to a point, for about 10-12"; this is then bent back to form a knucklebow, protecting the knuckles.

I'm suggesting this because I have a knife very similar to the one you're describing; it's a 2-hander, 21" khuk-style blade, with a very similar curve profile and similar use of fullers to yours (only a tad more forward-curving), which was made for me to my design by my bladesmith pal here in Somerset. It's extremely efficient, handy and pleasant to use, and can handle all the heavy chopping you want. (I don't use it much because it's way too pretty for active service, but it's had a dozen or so fairly gruelling outings in which it's proved its mettle)The extended tang/knucklebow, which ends up in a cute little shepherd's-crook scroll finial, has saved my knuckles from scratches and abrasions on many occasions, and it balances the blade very nicely, as well as doubling as a very handy belt-hook. Also - not exactly a practical asset, this, but very endearing - because of the harmonics, when you tap the blade lightly with your fingers, it 'sings'; a lovely clear note like a bell.

This style of tang/guard is actually pretty simple to make (gotta be; I've done several myself) which might also be a consideration for a production piece.
 
The blade looks attractive, almost like a Falcata. Nice design in my opinion.
 
Also - not exactly a practical asset, this, but very endearing - because of the harmonics, when you tap the blade lightly with your fingers, it 'sings'; a lovely clear note like a bell.
Click to expand...

Tom,

I love knives with good harmonic qualities. They almost sound like tuning rods.

I was a bit concerned with the handle when I put this together. On the one hand leaving the back of the tang exposed passes vibrations directly onto the hand, but, that same feature provides good feedback and lets you know immediately whether you are doing something wrong. I don't think it will be too bad provided the contact area is about 0.5 inches thick.

The balance and center of precussion is adjusted using the Mass above the fuller about 4-8 inches behind the point. The Kami can enlarge or reduce the amount of material here to bring the center of precussion to where it would do the most good.

BTW, can you post, or email, a picture of your chiruwa knife. It sounds like a great knife.

n2s
 
N2S:

I second your request for pics from Tom.

Also, I'd be game for such a bird as the bushsword.

S.
 
This is the cross section near the widest part of the blade. The 1/2 inch section is 0.6 inches long with a 1 inch wide fuller, and a 1 inch wide convex edge grind. The final edge shown here is about 22-24 degrees angle, but we can leave it to the kami to develop the best edge angle.

n2s
 
--Some-- similarity to Junglee Short Sword:
Junglee ju2000 21in Short Sword.jpg
 
--Some-- similarity to Junglee Short Sword:
Click to expand...

It's a similar idea; this version is about 4 times as thick and 10 inches longer (and two-handed). It will do to heavy brush (1.5-2 inches thick) what the Junglee does to soft vegetation. :)

n2s
 
Fullers! Add more Fullers! Gotta love fullers. I never get my fill of fullers. Love the design, jsut as long as it stays under 3-3.5lbs.
Its 2-hand use reminds me of the Dao Dao, a two handed slasher from China. just needs a ring pommel, but I like the knuckebow idea, too!

Keith
 
Here it is with some of the adjustments you have suggested. This one has a chiwura handle and a hand guard. The pommel and forward guard are permanently affixed to the tang either by silver solder, forging, or welding.

How about something like this?

n2s

BTW, although the handguard looks OK, this is a two handed knife so it is probably just extra weight. What are your thoughts on this?
 
I say lose the knucklebow in the interest of weight and balance. Baybe the buttcap flares out a bit more?

One wrong move with that monster could reult in limb-misplacement. Forget the Jaws-of-life, you could slash open cars like soda cans with that bad boy!

Keith
 
n2s wrote -

"BTW, can you post, or email, a picture of your chiruwa knife. It sounds like a great knife. "


I'll try, if someone'll post them for me. Also, if anybody might be interested in commissioning a similar knife from the guy who made mine for me, I can pass on a message. He's an outstanding craftsman, and his work deserves to be far more widely known.
 
Here we go again. :)

As suggested the knuckle bow is gone, and the rear pommel has been exteneded by 1/2 inch.

The bow did give me a useful idea. If we perforate the front guard we can add an after market wrist strap of the type used with ice axes and picks. They are very strong comfortable straps that can be adjusted to reduce the stress on the hands of swinging such a large blade. This will let one of your wrist take up some of the strain.

This is looking better all the time.

Any other thoughts?

n2s

These are the kind of straps I am talking about:

http://www.bdel.com/alpinism/icetools_android.html
 
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