My first folder sheath...WIP photos (lots of 'em!)

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Sep 16, 2002
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I've been tinkering with leather for a while (I've made about half a dozen fixed blade sheaths and a few holsters so far), and I decided to do something different for a change of pace. I read Gary Graley's sticky at the top of this forum, and watched a video on YouTube and decided I would make a sheath for my Sebenza. Since I was taking a lot of progress photos to send to a friend and I have not ever posted a WIP thread, I thought this would be my chance at fame and fortune (or at least might help some other newbies to learn from my mistakes and to get motivated to give this a try.) If anyone sees anything I did wrong, please feel free to correct me.

I started with a scrap, randomly sized piece of leather and went right to work getting it wet and molding it to the knife. I'm not even out of the gates yet, and I've already made my first mistake...I did not remember to cut a decorative groove along the top edge of the sheath, and I'm not sure I can do it now without screwing things up so this one will go without. I use the pictured tools for detailed molding once the leather surface just dried to the touch and was properly 'cased'. For some reason, the old spoon works about the best for me so it gets the most use.

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Next I cut away the excess and cut out the back piece, dyed the inside of the sheath and the belt loop, scuffed up the smooth leather with sandpaper and applied Weldwood contact cement.

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Once cemented together, I trimmed the excess leather away and made my second mistake...I got sloppy with the utility knife and goofed the cut. Thankfully, there was enough excess material to play with so I sanded it down on my belt sander and got rid of it.

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Here I've made the stitch groove, marked the stitches with an overstitch wheel, and punched the holes with a diamond punch. The hole at the top left is a little off, but some massaging with the overstitch wheel helped and is not too noticeable after stitching.

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Now it's time to stitch just the front side only up to where the belt loop ends. You don't want to stitch this area into the back piece, or you'll not have anyplace for your belt to go!

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Here I'm checking to make sure it's going to fit my belt. I goofed this part up as well...when I went to stitch the rest of the way down, I had to back stitch into this area so there wouldn't be any gaps and I hadn't thought it out properly beforehand. Luckily, I was able to add another stitch hole/stitch and my belt still fit, but I'm going to have to think it through more carefully the next time so I get it right. I'm still not sure what I did wrong.

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Trimming off the excess after gluing the back piece in place...this time more carefully with the knife...and sanding the edges smooth on the belt sander.

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Here I punched back through the front side holes creating the stitch holes for the back piece, cut the stitch groove, and used the overstitch wheel to mark the stitches.

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All stitched up. I go back over the stitches again afterwards with the overstitch wheel, dampening them first, as I learned from Chuck Burrows' DVD (excellent for new leather makers.) This helps to makes them more uniform and sit lower in the leather.

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Here I'm getting ready to burnish the edges. You can see where I've burned the edges a little by running my belt a bit too fast (see edge just above Sharpie marker.) I find a sharpie and a shot of vodka (OK, it's really just a little water) works as well as anything else I've tried for burnishing. I will burnish again after dyeing with Gum Tragacanth.

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If you squint carefully in this photo, you can see where I've already burnished the left side but not yet the right side. I go over the edges by hand with 400x sandpaper before I do this step.

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My last step before dyeing is to wipe it down well with rubbing alcohol (another tip from Chuck's DVD) to remove anything on the leather surface. I unfortunately haven't used up all my Tandy Eco-Flo dye, which is VERY sensitive to any moisture, so I will let this dry now overnight before I dye it to avoid any moisture related problems. This dye has given me all kinds of headaches and I won't be buying anymore once this is gone.

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Hopefully tomorrow I can get it dyed and finished up. Thanks for slogging through my long post!
 
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Great work. It may be simple, but the texture and color are great. Do you happen to buy your leather online? Besides picking up scraps from people who work with leather, it seems impossible to find leather in stores.
 
Great work. It may be simple, but the texture and color are great. Do you happen to buy your leather online? Besides picking up scraps from people who work with leather, it seems impossible to find leather in stores.

Thanks riz. The front piece is a scrap leftover from leather I bought at Tandy when I first started making sheaths. I find this leather (in my limited experience) seems to not take tooling, dye or boning well in general. The back piece of this sheath is from my new double shoulder that I got from Wickett & Craig (I ordered from them over the phone.) Had I used my head, I would have used the Tandy piece for the back and the W&C for the front!

My limited experience with this leather tells me it will work/tool/mold and hopefully dye WAY better than the Tandy leather I started with. Wickett & Craig isn't cheap, but from my research is one of, if not the best, leathers you can buy.
 
Wickett & Craig seems good, though the pricing and buying options are beyond me. They have skirting, tooling, harness this/that lol. I need to look into this more.
 
It is confusing and only slightly more clear when you actually talk to them on the telephone! I wanted to order a double shoulder, but the guy seemed to think I should get skirting for sheaths and holsters. As I recall, it gets more confusing with the names of colors...it's different for each type of leather. I bought undyed shoulder, which as I recall was called 'russet', but russet in other types was a dyed color. Unfortunately I can't really help you other than to say give them a call and talk it over with them...hopefully you'll get something that works!
 
It is confusing and only slightly more clear when you actually talk to them on the telephone! I wanted to order a double shoulder, but the guy seemed to think I should get skirting for sheaths and holsters. As I recall, it gets more confusing with the names of colors...it's different for each type of leather. I bought undyed shoulder, which as I recall was called 'russet', but russet in other types was a dyed color. Unfortunately I can't really help you other than to say give them a call and talk it over with them...hopefully you'll get something that works!

Lol. Is the pricing per piece or foot or something measurable? My head spins when I look at their page.
 
As I recall, the price is per square foot, and you are charged for whatever size the particular hide is that's chosen for your order. I believe they give you a typical estimated size range when placing the order. (It was a LONG time ago when I ordered mine, so my memory is fuzzy on all of this.)
 
As I recall, the price is per square foot, and you are charged for whatever size the particular hide is that's chosen for your order. I believe they give you a typical estimated size range when placing the order. (It was a LONG time ago when I ordered mine, so my memory is fuzzy on all of this.)

Well if I do decide to buy some leather from them I will post on here. Though it isn't like I need another money pit lol.
 
:) Nice Job! :)

Someone watched G2's tutorial. Good man - Amazing how that is turning out for your first sheath.

TF

Thanks for the input, fellas! If anyone sees any glaring error I'm committing, please feel free to correct my process. Just to clarify Talfuchre, I've made a few fixed blade sheaths but this is my first folder pouch.

Here is what it looks like after 2 coats of Eco-Flo dark brown. It's somewhat mottled and has a bit of an iridescent sheen, which I've come to expect from this dye. Buffing and top coat will help with those problems, but not entirely. Also, at the upper left where the top and bottom pieces meet it looks like I had some excess contact cement which prevents the dye from taking. Another thing to be careful of...

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PJ...good job, it looks great. My only question/concern.......and it is just that because I don't know the answer to it....is if it wouldn't be better to stitch closer to the shape of the actual knife (?)
I have one very similar to yours on the drawing board right now....only it will have a metal belt clip......and I"m planning on stitching right on the molding line.
I'm thinking the pouch may loosen too much, in time, if the line of stitching is too far from that line. :confused:
 
PJ...good job, it looks great. My only question/concern.......and it is just that because I don't know the answer to it....is if it wouldn't be better to stitch closer to the shape of the actual knife (?)
I have one very similar to yours on the drawing board right now....only it will have a metal belt clip......and I"m planning on stitching right on the molding line.
I'm thinking the pouch may loosen too much, in time, if the line of stitching is too far from that line. :confused:

Thanks for the compliment, rayban! I'm not sure to be honest with you. I think it will be OK as it's borderline too tight now with the very detailed molding (especially around the pocket clip), of course over time I'm not sure and you may be right. I guess I think/hope it's OK, although if your fit is not as tight stitching more closely would certainly help avoid loosening over time.

Let me know how yours turns out and post up some pics when it's done!
 
Great work Paul !

Hows the KMG treating ya? Leather is looking good ! :thumbup:

-Josh

Hey Josh, long time no see! I've been hibernating all summer so I haven't touched the KMG in months (other than working on this sheath the last couple of days.) I just noticed the KITH is coming soon though, so I have to get off my butt and get back to work now that it's finally cooling down.

Any pics of the finished product with the knife in it? Looks great! Good job!

Thanks for the kind words. It actually isn't quite done, so no finished pics quite yet. I have to put on the top coat and buff it, then it will be done. Hopefully I will have pics in the next few days...
 
Thanks for the compliment, rayban! I'm not sure to be honest with you. I think it will be OK as it's borderline too tight now with the very detailed molding (especially around the pocket clip), of course over time I'm not sure and you may be right. I guess I think/hope it's OK, although if your fit is not as tight stitching more closely would certainly help avoid loosening over time.

Let me know how yours turns out and post up some pics when it's done!

Worst case....IF it does loosen, you can still add that row of stitching at the mold line....it may look pretty cool with a double row of stitching.:thumbup:
 
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