- Joined
- Feb 4, 1999
- Messages
- 5,786
With a little help from Ed Caffrey via email, I finally got a really nice temper line to show itself on my latest knife! So exciting! I learned quite a bit and I thought I'd share them here:
1) Finish is of utmost critical importance. When etching to reveal the temper, the finish is the most important thing. every stray scratch will attempt to ruin all the work you put into it, so expect to do a LOT of finish work. I hand filed the blade, then sanded by hand to 600 grit. If you've ever used a file to make a blade then you know how much work this is!
2) Slow etch is better. Make sure you are using properly diluted ferric chloride or it will pit the blade. 3:1 water to ferric chloride works.
3) Check the blade frequently when etching. Also be aware that it will darken even while soaking in TSP, so if you want a very light etch then don't soak in the acid for much longer than a minute or two.
4) There is a trade off between happy shiny blades and cool-looking etched ones. If you want that 600 grit polish to stay there, then don't etch it. The etch will ruin your polish.
5) Contrary to what you see in magazines, a proper etch will have a dark edge with the soft portion being lighter. The temper line itself should be the darkest part of all, usually with a thin band of almost polished-color steel running along side it. I didn't know this until Ed told me. He said a lot of makers buff the dark out of the edge to hide defects.
6) use 0000 steel wool to clean the blade up after etching. DON'T be tempted to use Scotchbrite pads, even white ones, because they will scratch the finish.
That's pretty much it. I found that it is both much easier and much harder to get a cool looking temper line than I had thought. Now I'm hooked, though, of course! One final note: Ed is insane for selling his EBK's (or whatever they're called) for $107.50. With the amount of work that goes into making a knife, finishing it, etching it, refinishing it, putting a handle on it, finishing the handle, then making a sheath for it he is practically giving them away at that price. I haven't seen one up close and personal yet, but they look awesome on the webpage and you show me another ABS mastersmith that sells knifves for that price! If you need more specific tips on working with 1084 let me know via email and I'll be glad to give some input...
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Steve Agocs, D.C.
http://www.geocities.com/Chiro75/frames.html
agocs_s@hotmail.com
1) Finish is of utmost critical importance. When etching to reveal the temper, the finish is the most important thing. every stray scratch will attempt to ruin all the work you put into it, so expect to do a LOT of finish work. I hand filed the blade, then sanded by hand to 600 grit. If you've ever used a file to make a blade then you know how much work this is!
2) Slow etch is better. Make sure you are using properly diluted ferric chloride or it will pit the blade. 3:1 water to ferric chloride works.
3) Check the blade frequently when etching. Also be aware that it will darken even while soaking in TSP, so if you want a very light etch then don't soak in the acid for much longer than a minute or two.
4) There is a trade off between happy shiny blades and cool-looking etched ones. If you want that 600 grit polish to stay there, then don't etch it. The etch will ruin your polish.
5) Contrary to what you see in magazines, a proper etch will have a dark edge with the soft portion being lighter. The temper line itself should be the darkest part of all, usually with a thin band of almost polished-color steel running along side it. I didn't know this until Ed told me. He said a lot of makers buff the dark out of the edge to hide defects.
6) use 0000 steel wool to clean the blade up after etching. DON'T be tempted to use Scotchbrite pads, even white ones, because they will scratch the finish.
That's pretty much it. I found that it is both much easier and much harder to get a cool looking temper line than I had thought. Now I'm hooked, though, of course! One final note: Ed is insane for selling his EBK's (or whatever they're called) for $107.50. With the amount of work that goes into making a knife, finishing it, etching it, refinishing it, putting a handle on it, finishing the handle, then making a sheath for it he is practically giving them away at that price. I haven't seen one up close and personal yet, but they look awesome on the webpage and you show me another ABS mastersmith that sells knifves for that price! If you need more specific tips on working with 1084 let me know via email and I'll be glad to give some input...
------------------
Steve Agocs, D.C.
http://www.geocities.com/Chiro75/frames.html
agocs_s@hotmail.com
