Need Excellent FIELD Sharpening System

L

Longfisher

Joined
Apr 4, 2002
Messages
6
I've seen the Lansky systems and others which are quite bulky if carried to the field. No doubt, they're good sharpening systems but they'd not fit into my fanny pack or survival pack.

So, does anyone have a recommendation for a sharpening system which is both designed for carrying to the field/inclusion in a survival pack and that will perform well on all common blades to include axes, machetes, fillet knives and hunting knives?

Thanks,

LongFisher
 
DMT offers a line of handy 'folding' hones (like a balisong), with a coarse and fine grit, one each side. They work great.
 
A.G.Russell offers a field sharpener which is essentially a small version of "crock sticks". It is supplied with both diamond rods and ceramic rods. 4" rods fit inside the 5 1/4 " x 2 1/2" case. $39.95.
 
<a href="http://www.sergium.izet.pl/images/sharpeners/dmt/Diafolds_02.jpg" target="_blank"><IMG align=right SRC="http://www.sergium.izet.pl/images/sharpeners/dmt/Diafolds_02_tn.jpg" border="2"></a>My favorite outdoors combo is DMT Double Sided Diafold and free hand sharpening skills. Skills are always with me, they can’t be lost, stolen, burnt, drown, cracked etc.

Diafolds work nicely, they are fast, do not require oil and do not have tendency to clog. You have two grits in one smooth, light and easy to use package. It is very shock resistant as distinct from ceramic sharpeners. You can work even without sturdy base, just handling both knife and sharpener in your hands. All maintenance required – just rinse your tool in the water after sharpening and wipe it dry.

The choice depends on your disposition. If you tend to touch up your knives at the moment they lose shaving ability – choose fine/ultra fine Diafold (red/green). This is my choice...
If you tend to sharpen your knife only when it is completely dull and unable to cut anything – coarse/fine (blue/red) will be better choice. It will work better also on axes.

The downside is somewhat high price of DMT stuff - but Man, you do not need to buy it daily!

And Welcome to the forums :)
 
I'd say if you want to be able to sharpen just about anything in the field, and save as much space and weight in your pack as possible go with the DMT Diafolds. The only downside to this is you need to be able to hold the knife/axe etc. at a constant angle while sharpening. If you can do this, then great, if not The AG Russell system looks like it would do well.


Erik
 
I've used an Eze-Lap Model M for close to 20 years with good results. It's a diamond coated steel about 3 1/2" long. It is not good for a major sharpening job but it's OK for touching up edges in the field.
 
For versatility in the field with edged tools, other than hunting and fillet knives, the Spyderco Tri-angle Sharpmaker Model 204 would be a good choice. I've had mine for about a month now and it has served its' purpose well and without disappointment to me. Along with its' versatility, the compact storage case is a breeze to carry in your pocket or backpack.

Check it out at www.spyderco.com
Good Luck.:D
 
Or put a convex edge on your blade and carry a little bit of folded up 300 grit sandpaper. Works like a charm!
 
I have one minor quibble with the DMT Diafolds. The plastic handles on mine are very flimsy and flexible. I would prefer stronger and more rigid handles. I don't think that this would add much more to the price and would make them more useful.
 
tarsier, I agree with your minor quibble. The handles on those diafolds are a bit too flimsy for me. If only DMT could resolve this matter....:rolleyes:
 
Don’t you accidentally use too much pressure with sharpened blade against sharpening surface? This is diamond surface and no hard pressure is needed.
Mine holds up very decently for some years and doesn’t seem too flimsy and flexible at the forces necessary for sharpening, even without sturdy support (working bench for ex.)
 
Originally posted by pendentive


How does this compare to the DMT Diafolds?
Click to expand...


Many on this list will say that Eze-lap products use polycristialine diamonds and that they are not as durable as DMT monocristaline but there are many reports of Eze-Lap products lasting 30+ years while DMT products are known to rust. Also I think Eze-Lap has been in business longer. Both products tend to get positive play in the media. I think both are comparable.....Eze-lap is cheaper generally.
 
Ray,
Common sense says me that all talks about mono- or polycrystalline diamonds is not more and not less than very hard simplification. There is no polycrystalline diamonds, each diamond – small or big – always is mono-crystal. It is impossible to get diamond particle made of more than the single crystal.

In my experience with both sharpeners DMT uses much more consistent size of diamond particles for each grit and this is the secret of precise honing and durability. Another DMT goal is very consistent and durable nickel plating over steel surface what embeds diamond abrasive particles. What do you think about so-called break-in period? Is it the rounding up of diamond cutting edges causing them to cut less aggressively? Wow! it is impossible to round up diamond edges! Diamond shape is constant and invariable. It is also impossible to break diamonds but it is possible to break them out of the nickel plating. Breaking in diamond sharpener user breaks out from the sharpening surface inconsistently embedded – say, “redundant” - abrasive particles.

When I had only one DMT fine/ultra-fine Double Sided Diafold – I have reprofiled with it some dozens of pretty hard blades and restored heavily damaged ones. Please take into consideration than nor Diafold as itself neither fine grit are not suitable for edge reprofiling. So this kind of use should be certainly considered as abuse. But this my Diafold still lives and works!

As to Eze-Lap sharpeners – I can’t evaluate their durability. To last 30 years and to work 30 years is not the same. So far I didn’t make any Eze-Lap sharpening surface bald and I’m sure in long run use they will hold up pretty well. Taking into consideration that Eze-Lap sharpeners are almost half less expensive than similar DMT ones I would dare to say that they offer somewhat more sharpener for each your dollar from average user’s viewpoint.

Their main drawback is relatively inconsistent particle size in given grit. This provides the feeling of “crazy cutting” and noticeably less accurate result, especially if precisely honed edge is needed.

So I could say:
  • If you want to sharpen your knives to acceptable level of working sharpness for reasonable cost – go with Eze-Lap
  • If you are mastered free hand sharpening and want to get from your sharpener as much performance as possible – definitely go with DMT
Some kind of difference like between Ford and Mercedes...
In another words, want decent sharpener – get Eze-Lap, want excellent sharpener (see thread title) – get DMT.

However all said is just my humble opinion, as usually at least...
 
Originally posted by Sergiusz Mitin
Ray,
Common sense says me that all talks about mono- or polycrystalline diamonds is not more and not less than very hard simplification. There is no polycrystalline diamonds, each diamond – small or big – always is mono-crystal. It is impossible to get diamond particle made of more than the single crystal.

In my experience with both sharpeners DMT uses much more consistent size of diamond particles for each grit and this is the secret of precise honing and durability. Another DMT goal is very consistent and durable nickel plating over steel surface what embeds diamond abrasive particles. What do you think about so-called break-in period? Is it the rounding up of diamond cutting edges causing them to cut less aggressively? Wow! it is impossible to round up diamond edges! Diamond shape is constant and invariable. It is also impossible to break diamonds but it is possible to break them out of the nickel plating. Breaking in diamond sharpener user breaks out from the sharpening surface inconsistently embedded – say, “redundant” - abrasive particles.

When I had only one DMT fine/ultra-fine Double Sided Diafold – I have reprofiled with it some dozens of pretty hard blades and restored heavily damaged ones. Please take into consideration than nor Diafold as itself neither fine grit are not suitable for edge reprofiling. So this kind of use should be certainly considered as abuse. But this my Diafold still lives and works!

As to Eze-Lap sharpeners – I can’t evaluate their durability. To last 30 years and to work 30 years is not the same. So far I didn’t make any Eze-Lap sharpening surface bald and I’m sure in long run use they will hold up pretty well. Taking into consideration that Eze-Lap sharpeners are almost half less expensive than similar DMT ones I would dare to say that they offer somewhat more sharpener for each your dollar from average user’s viewpoint.

Their main drawback is relatively inconsistent particle size in given grit. This provides the feeling of “crazy cutting” and noticeably less accurate result, especially if precisely honed edge is needed.

So I could say:
  • If you want to sharpen your knives to acceptable level of working sharpness for reasonable cost – go with Eze-Lap
  • If you are mastered free hand sharpening and want to get from your sharpener as much performance as possible – definitely go with DMT
Some kind of difference like between Ford and Mercedes...
In another words, want decent sharpener – get Eze-Lap, want excellent sharpener (see thread title) – get DMT.

However all said is just my humble opinion, as usually at least...
Click to expand...

Well I say your Ford vs Mercedes comparison is a little off. More like Audi vs Mercedes.....
 
Spyderco's "Double-Stuff", i.e. medium and fine ceramic sharpener in a leather sheath is a good choice. Another one is the DMT Fine/UltraFine combination already mentioned here. I think the Spyderco's sharpener has finer grit than the DuoFold.
 
Yes, SPYDERCO ceramic is very good for edge maintenance but somewhat too gentle for reprofiling or restoring. They have issued shortened (4” long) version of their ProFiles (btw, excellent stuff for free hand sharpening! I use it much more frequently than SharpMaker). However in comparison with DMT Double Sided Diafold shortened ProFiles are heavier and much more brittle – it’s ceramic. Additionally – they require sturdy base to work with and are far less comfortable to work just holding in the hand.

IMHO the coolest set for home free hand sharpening is DMT 8” Duo-Sharp (coarse/fine) plus SPYDERCO full sized ProFiles – this makes possible to do with the edge all what you could need.

But for outdoors use I definitely prefer DMT Double Sided Diafold!

Opppsss, just edited to add – if you have the knife with plain blade, no serrations and no recurves.
If your blade has serrations or/and recurve – you should support the Diafold with one (also Diafold) Serrated Knife Sharpener. This is elongated conical rod coated with diamond powder, works nicely on serrations and recurves.

Or turn to SPYDERCO shortened ProFiles.
 
Well, I splurged and bought the DMT Diafolds. I bought the red and blue (fine and coarse) and the red and green (fine and extra fine). Wow, that coarse really works on the machete's even when the edges are bent due to limbing (can straighten them out at home on the vice/anvil).

Am now trying to learn free-hand sharpening. It's not as easy as the diagrams suggest.

But the edge which is attainable in the field with these devices is simply remarkable.

LongFisher
 
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