new surface grinder...stone or belt???

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
9,437
Okay, I just hauled home my new (to me) surface grinder.

It's a Grand Rapids with a Walker 8.25 X 24" extra fine pole chuck.

I didn't get any stones with it...and I'm wondering if I would be better off to buy one (or more) stones such as a Norton, or spend some more and convert it to belts.

I have always been worried that between the pliable characteristics of the contact wheel and the splice in a belt, that I would lose accuracy and ability to maintain flatness.

I know a belt would be much faster though.

If a belt conversion, what's better, to come up with my own arm and tensioner, or just buy one of those idlers (I think from Kalamzoo) and mount it to an arm???

Any help, suggestions, reasoning, construction...is all appreciated.

By the way, it has brand new 0.5 hp Baldor motor (3 phase) if anybody is interested in it. I'm gonna take it off an put on a single phase.

Thanks!
smile.gif

Nick
 
Congratulations Nick, ya lucky surface grindin bastid!!
biggrin.gif

In Shadley's book about making mutli blade folders they show a surface grinder set up that uses belts. The contact wheel is solid aluminum, no rubber on it. To reduce the belt joint problems he breaks down the grit at the joint with another grinder and then sands down the lap on the inside of the joint. I guess this smooths it all out so you don't get the little skips in the steel.Keep us informed on your progress!

------------------
Take care!! Michael

Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
I use both setups on a regular basis. You are correct that the belt is faster but nothing beats the grinding wheel for flatness. Ive used both machines for folders and the wheel makes for smooth operating folder.

Arthur D. Washburn
ADW Custom Knives
Production manager for Devin Thomas Damascus
 
Thanks for the replies guys
smile.gif


Arthur, do you have a machine there set-up to switch from stone to belt, or just two seperate machines? Maybe I just flat misunderstood.

I mostly bought it with folders in mind, but I still have tons of fixed blade designs I want to do...

Just goes to show how green I still am at all this...but you have to start somewhere
wink.gif


Thanks,
Nick
 
Nick,
If you use coolant, you can't beat the stone. I use Norton 32AA on just about everything and they work great. If I have alot of material to remove I mill it with a face mill, then surface grind it. If you have trouble with it "popping" up on the ends, lay it at a 45 degree on the chuck until the final pass, then go lengthwise.
 
Nick, I talked to Randy Spanjer today at the gun show. He switched from a 2" belt to a 1" belt. He says it cuts faster and is less money per belt. He boasts of up to .010" removal per pass. Thats fast. He has a harbor freight model. I wonder if you could use the belt dry and then switch back to the wheel for precision wet grinding. My thoughts, bruce
 
Back
Top