newbie needs help

[bushblade]

Hi everyone,

I am trying to make 3 knives out of 01 using the stock removal method, they have single flat bevels like those of Helle, Frosts Mora etc.

I have ground out one blade (my first) that is perfect and ready for heat treat, but have ruined 6 blanks trying to make the other 2

My problem is I can't keep the bevels flat and even, they just end up messy. But I did it fine on the first, so I must be able to do it right?

So how can I get a nice even flat grind?

I hope someone can help.

Will

 

[Crayola]

A couple of tips:

I usually leave the "scale" on the steel that it comes with from the store. As I grind, I "chase" the scale line up the steel. When the scale lien has reached the top of the knife, I have achieved a flat grind. In this way, you use the scale as a gauge. Grind up the knif eon one side, then grind the other side to match. If your scale lines meet but you notice that the bevel on one side isn't like on the other side, you know you have to adjust the angle you are grinding at on the one side. This will then create another "line" that you can "chase" up to the scale line.

Also, don't forget about files! There is nothing wrong with clamping a knife in your vice and draw filing it to clean things up.

I hope these tips help.

 

[Brett Bennett]

Will,

I daresay you were fortunate on your first attempt. Most of us ruined quite a bit a steel when we started out, so don't be discouraged. Part of growing as a knifemaker is learning how to correct one's mistakes. If there is anything left of the six you ruined, I'd suggest practicing with them some more. You may even be able to make a serviceable knife with them.
I'm not sure what you are using, but I'll give you some suggestions for using a belt grinder.
-Make your initial grinds at steep angles (I go about 30 degrees) in order to thin down your edge. Take the grind down to within about 1/32" of your scribed lines.
-Flat grinding is all about pressure. Slowly work your grind line towards the spine. Try to keep them even and equidistant from the edge (usually).
-Don't finish one side and then the other. Work each side some and switch to the other side. Keep working the sides back and forth until finished.
-Be concious of your lateral pressure, too. Otherwise you end up with a gouges in the blade that are difficult to remedy.
-As you reach the tip, pull the tang of the knife towards you slightly. This will thin out the tip and give you a nice distal taper.
-If you can, decrease speed when using finer belts. The finer belts have more surface area, which causes the belts to 'bite' more. If you are having a problem with 'faceting' of the surface, you are either using too much pressure or speed.
-The number one recommendation I can give is to continue to practice. Grinding is almost entirely (IMO) a learned skill. Tricks and tips will help, but you still have to train your hands.
Good luck and hope this helps.

Brett

 

[bushblade]

Thanks for that, some good advice and I'll give it a go, someone else recomended trying on a few pieces of wood to practice.

I think I'll send the good one for heat treat on its own for now so I will be able to have a go at the next stage, and have something to work towards.

Am I right in saying grinding the bevels in is the hardest part?

Thanks again

Will

 

[RobertHankins]

Are you using a fresh belt for each blade?
You will loose control very quickly by using a worn belt...period!
The most I get out of a belt is two blades and I have been grinding for 3+yrs. Then you can use that belt for profiling, sanding handles, knocking off the edges before doing the initial grind and everything else.

Being Thrifty is very expensive
when it comes to using Fresh good quality belts!

 

[Chang]

Use fresh belts to finish up, and don't keep grinding on the same place for long periods of time. Move it back and forth so the belt doesn't leave gouges. Unless you are using variable speed, chances are you might have to go back to hand sanding at 220-grit to get all the little miniature bumps out. Get something hard to back the sandpaper up, something like a 1/8" thick scale of canvas micarta usually works well.