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Nyala - Insingo tip rolled over? Can I fix this myself or should I send it in? Pictures.

Discussion in 'Chris Reeve Knives' started by Dullknivescut, May 13, 2018.

  1. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    Pretty much I am not the most experienced with sharpening knives, but am picking up a sharpening kit regardless. Edit: Shortened

    Thanks in advance. Would a sharpmaker be fine?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2018
  2. TRfromMT

    TRfromMT Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 4, 2016
    Working carefully on the flat sides of the sharpmaker stones will take just a minute. Be careful to end the stroke with the tip still on the flat of the rod (don't let it slip off, which will round off the tip).

    If you have any concerns about your technique, practice on another knife (an old steak knife or kitchen knife even).
     
    Dullknivescut and OLd_gUY like this.
  3. Ajack60

    Ajack60 Platinum Member Platinum Member

    Apr 21, 2013
    Yes, you can take that burr out without much effort.
    Use a sharpie to mark the edge. It lets you know that you are getting the whole edge and not just part of it.
     
    Dullknivescut and OLd_gUY like this.
  4. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    Thanks I appreciate your answers, this was my first noticeable burr. I don’t have the box cutter or usual cheap knife to cut up cardboard and I believe along with the insingo shape after months of testing this thing on boxes it showed up. I’ll do my research.
     
  5. bart1

    bart1 Gold Member Gold Member

    809
    May 24, 2009
    Might have hit a box staple, I've done it before.
     
  6. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    I found this quote from me Reeve himself
    I see here he says you can use even a cardboard or back of a notebook to strop? I am looking for a leather strop. Edit after some research I guess it doesn’t matter what kind of leather strop, I am still somewhat unsure if I need the compound.

    No belts to spare. Should I use any stropping compound or is the sharp maker with leather strop afterwards enough?
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2018
  7. TRfromMT

    TRfromMT Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 4, 2016
    I was only speaking of the repair, specifically at the tip. Otherwise, follow the DVD instructions with the sharpmaker. Point being don't do more damage with poor technique.

    Making a strop is easy, but lots of quality strops out there for not too much money.

    Learning what works well for you is part of learning to enjoy your knives as a whole.
     
    Dullknivescut likes this.
  8. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    Yeah I understand about not rounding off the tip and I appreciate your response as I had no idea originally, I’ll definitely practice with some old knives first.

    From what I’ve read people use compound and others don’t use any compound ( that green block ), And lastly I agree a ton of strops to choose from. Maybe it sounds silly but I would feel odd stropping Sebenzas on cardboard..

    Edit: I found some nice strop blocks on KnivesShipFree, does anyone recommend picking up a compound or should I just go with the strop? @blanco112 @bhyde
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2018
  9. OLd_gUY

    OLd_gUY Gold Member Gold Member

    326
    Feb 20, 2018
    I am far from an expert but I have found the combo of the Sharpmaker and the strop from Knives Plus to work very well for me. Check out YouTube for videos re: the strop.
    Or email me ( oldguy at sti dot net ) and I'll reply with the address of a video.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2018
  10. Mike Large

    Mike Large Gold Member Gold Member

    351
    Jun 24, 2017
    The unbelievably pointy tip CRK puts on all their knives is going to be short lived and damn hard to get back. On users that is. It used to bug me how quick I would loose it on my hard users. If it's still sharp, I wouldn't loose any sleep trying to get back that factory tip... it would be a tough task
     
  11. GermanyChris

    GermanyChris Gold Member Gold Member

    Feb 18, 2015
    Yup just sharpen it out.

    I did worse damage than that when I put the SYE in my Jeep a couple months ago
     
  12. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    Is putting compound on the strop necessary if I’m going to be using the fine stones beforehand or it’s unnecessary? Thanks for your response guys I’ll send you an email in a bit as well @OLd_gUY

    Edit: Since KSP is an approved dealer here to my knowledge it should be fine I post these links.

    https://www.knivesshipfree.com/bark-river-sharpening-kit-ksf-double-sided-hone-w-compound/ - with compound

    https://www.knivesshipfree.com/bark...rop-hone-for-maintaining-convex-grind-knives/ - without
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2018
  13. HST

    HST Gold Member Gold Member

    Apr 2, 2015
    Pro Tip: keep using it as you were.

    OCD: continue to hper-focus on a small spot that won’t affect performance besides your own mind’s.

    If that knife is still sharp, then use it until it’s dull. If it needs sharpening, then go ahead and fix that spot. It’s a tool that’s meant to be used, it’s gonna have marks and edge deformities. IMO, that edge implies signs of use.

    Just use it. It will continue to serve you well.
     
  14. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    It’s not as sharp all around as I’d like it to be, the extra spot was just the icing on the cake. I haven’t sharpened it since I got it.

    So far I’ve read green compound can be a bit rough when using on the strop, so I’m thinking I’ll hit it with a sharp maker fine stone at 40 degrees, and then use the 12k grit white bark river compound on a strop and finish with just plain strop no compound.

    https://www.knivesshipfree.com/bark...s/bark-river-white-sharpening-compound-1-bar/ according to DLT it’s 12K grit and pretty much the finest compound from them, recommended via KSF.
     
  15. Mike Large

    Mike Large Gold Member Gold Member

    351
    Jun 24, 2017
    My ultra fine stones get it sharper than even needed. No need for a strop after
     
    lex2006 likes this.
  16. brownshoe

    brownshoe I support this site with my MIND

    Sep 6, 2002
    No need for a strop, but Chris is right, cardboard will work. The Sharpmaker's only weakness is the dark stones are not coarse enough when it's seriosly dull.
     
    Mike Large likes this.
  17. Mike Large

    Mike Large Gold Member Gold Member

    351
    Jun 24, 2017
    Agreed. They will get the job done but better start a long movie and get comfortable.
     
  18. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    Well update on the Sharpmaker I enjoy the system so much I’ll be grabbing the ultra fine stones, so far I have had mixed results when stropping so that will probably replace the strop until I figure out what I’m doing wrong.

    Had to use the medium dark stones to fine on the fixed blade, but from now on I will keep up with the fine to ultra fine stones only.
     
  19. Dullknivescut

    Dullknivescut Gold Member Gold Member

    371
    Aug 10, 2016
    It was almost as if the knives were less sharp after I stropped with bark river white and the DLT strop, but I’m just getting started.

    Fine stones worked perfectly, and if the ultra fine can replace the strop that would be easier.
     
  20. archieblue

    archieblue Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 19, 2001
    I've been using the Sharpmaker since 2002 and it has been great. I highly recommend adding the diamond rods to the system. I personally have no need or use for the ultra fine stones. I don't even use the fine white stones that came with it. I have even less use for a strop. When I sharpen a knife on my Sharpmaker, the first thing I do is 10-20 backward strokes on the med stones. This, in effect, acts as a steel does in pulling rolls and even small chips back in line with the apex. It makes sharpening easier and sacrifices less edge material. If the knife has some real flat spots or visible chips I start with the diamonds and go until those spots are no longer visible. I don't alternate strokes/side often. I find that I get a more consistent angle on the edge if I do 10-20 strokes on a side before stitching to the other side. Also, if one side of the edge grind is visibly wider than the other I may ONLY sharpen that side and finish off the edge as a whole by removing the burr on the thinner side... if that makes sense. Whatever you do, don't complicate it. Keep it simple. If you have even a shadow of a doubt, use the sharpie trick.
     

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