OD-1 Lock

D

DelrinFred

Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
171
Hi Steve.
Any thoughts on how to decrease the ball/detent engagement that keeps the blade closed? I have played with the adjusting screw on the blade shaft to the point where the blade wobbles, but the initial ball engagement is still too tight - it's wearing a groove on my finger. Once the ball comes out of its detent, blade opening is very smooth. I have tried some very fine lapping compound, and I have tried grease - not much change.
 
I thought the same also. What I also noticed with that one and others built similar is that if you happen to have your fingers on the lock pushing it in toward the blade it adds pressure to the hold of the ball making it double tough to flip opened. I noticed early on with some that I have to make sure when I'm holding it that my fingers are not leaning on the lock so you may try that also.

I could peen the ball in a bit deeper to loosen that up but its not going to do a lot if your fingers are the culprit.

STR
 
Hi STR. I noticed the same thing. I had to move my fingers a little further down on the handle to open the blade easily. On my OD-1 the ball detent is not very strong, especially for a tip up carry. I like the knife nice sleek looking. On my OD-1 the liner lock moves over all the way if I use any gripping pressure on the handle. Kershaw said not to worry as long as the knife seemed securely locked with no play which mine was secure. Just bothered me to see the liner move all the way over on a new knife.

RKH
 
I've seen that with even their frame locks once you really lean into the blade to cut something. You know the type pressure I mean I'm sure. Like when you really lean into a stop pin good to cut something. I had a Leek liner lock that also did that but it never changed after a lot of use.

RKH the flatter type contact like Kershaw seems to use on some models, although I am not totally sure they are not somewhat slightly concave at times because some stand out more than others but like on my Leek for example, with a stainless lock, the contact on the blade looks flat, but on my Tyrade with a titanium frame lock it had a definite concave shape to it on the contact. It appears they are smart enough at Kershaw to know how to make the best of titanium and steel from what I'm seeing but it is still possible they are just using a 7 degree angle and a 10" or even a 14" wheel to make that contact and if thats the case well, the concavity shape would be very slight and hard to see compared to one made with a smaller wheel which would be very distinct. Even if it is slightly concave which is very common these days across the board, that type of contact while sometimes allowing the lock to do as you noticed and slide clear across the interface, does tend to be secure even if the trade off for that security and added reliability is a bit of early movement like you have seen where the lock can cross to the other side.

So, I guess what I'm saying in a rather long winded way is, be thankful that its not a sharper pitch angle and concave or that stainless lock would move under load from some spine pressure and probably toward release. If its real bad on some they can just defeat altogether but of course I see that with titanium locks also. Generally speaking since titanium is more forgiving and tends to gall or stick to a contact you can get away with a steeper lock on those to some degree. For stainless it seems flatter is better so that may be what you are seeing since its a stainless steel lock on that folder as I recall. I believe its 410 SS.

STR
 
I really don't want a big debate about it you know, because its just my opinion but I really shy away from most of the concave type contacts using steel liners and locks since these tend to move a lot if you ask me. No offense to some that do this but I really don't think stainless liner locks stay put very well on a sharply angled concave contact on the blades and the knives that are long skinny things with easily twisted and flexed bodies made with thin or partial/nested liners with longer blades say 3.75" or longer really scare me personally and thats why I'm usually converting my own built that way to a frame lock or I just don't own one.

In experiments toying with contacts for various locks I used some concave contacts and have found what I like best if I'm going to do that and I prefer doing it just like Gene Baskett does. Gene is VP of the knifemakers Guild and uses a 10" wheel and his table tilted at a 7 degree angle. I tend to do mine from 7 to 9 degrees angle for my contact. On liner locks I don't mind the 7. With a frame lock I really find you can get away with a 10 degree and its not any problem at all but I usually set my pitch dial at 9.

Some of these I see in my shop for work from any number of manufacturers vary greatly for contact angles and based on as close to accurate as I can tell using my tilt table and a pitch angle gauge I see contacts that are concave using what must be 6" wheels at times because what I do is take the blade out figure what wheel fits it best and then find the angle to where that wheel fills the contact. Some are very curved indicating small wheels used and of course the size of the folder may be a determination for the design I really don't know but some are 8" wheels and others are 10" wheels and still others seem to go on varying from 7 degree angles to 15 degree ones and they can be flat, concave, or some are actually milled out straight with a distinct stop to keep the lock from moving in any farther at all.

Needless to say those 12 to 15 degree angled ones are the ones I see where people mail me the knives wanting to know why the lock won't stay put and the blade moves off the stop pin. I have quit mentioning names anymore since all it does is piss of the loyal following and since some of these companies have what amounts to "cult" followings I've just given up on trying to share my view much unless asked. Besides some with selective sight and hearing loss just don't want to hear it anyways you know. I have seen several examples over the years where I get two folders for work from two different individuals. One may be for a low rider and the other for something else but when they are both liner locks and they are from the same manufacturer made in the same year and of the exact same model and each blade has a different angle for a contact I know what I see. Its pretty obvious when one is 7 degrees and the other is 15 you know? And when I'm asked whats wrong with the lock my only conclusion is that the angle is so steep the lock is not able to stay on it so it slides toward defeat to a flatter spot with spine pressure.

Anyway, I wanted to add that for you since I recognize you asked and since it could be worse. Your issue to me is the lesser of the two evils. :D:thumbup:

STR
 
STR said:
I thought the same also. What I also noticed with that one and others built similar is that if you happen to have your fingers on the lock pushing it in toward the blade it adds pressure to the hold of the ball making it double tough to flip opened. I noticed early on with some that I have to make sure when I'm holding it that my fingers are not leaning on the lock so you may try that also.

I could peen the ball in a bit deeper to loosen that up but its not going to do a lot if your fingers are the culprit.

STR
Click to expand...
Nope, its not my fingers.
I'm willing to try the peening. What do you suggest - a brass face or a steel face punch? And how much deeper should I drive it in? If I screw it up, could you put in a new ball?
 
WOW! Steve, I think you just went over my head in the info on the lock. I am afraid I don't have your knowledge but I believe you and I trust you. I can live with the lock but I do not trust the ball detent. I have had more than my share of liner locks open when I did not want them to open. I can flip my OD-1 with little effort so may tighten the pivot. Tx is kinda funny about gravity knives. And so is the rest of my anatomy when it comes to a knife opening in my pocket. I do thank you for the answer Steve. Hey, what is the time frame on and getting one of your urban folder and price with a clip? And are they still available? i was a little late on the posts on that thread.

RHF
 
I can still put you down for one of BUSSTR folders in the next run but its two months out or so plus or minus before I can possibly get to them.

Sorry if I lost you on the info. I didn't know if you'd follow it or not.

Normally what I do is measure the washer thickness and if the ball is sticking on the blade too much I'll pick a washer from my selection that is thinner than the one in the folder and surround the ball on the lock with that washer. Then I'll peen using a flat end punch so that the ball sticks up the height of my thin washer. Hope you follow that. I'm using the washer as a stop to keep from punching the ball too far in the lock to where it doesn't work. Phosphorus bronze washers are best for this because they hold up and don't tend to deform so much like a nylon can over time. But a nylon will work in a pinch one time or two.

I'd be careful going too far with it but normally if the hole for the ball goes through the lock you can still get it back out you just have to know how.

STR
 
Steve,
Followed your directions and the action is now as smooth as butter! Of course, because the blade is now moved over a few thousandths, it is just touching the inside screw heads fastening the clip. Not enough to cause a problem, but it does highlight how close the tolerances are. If you do another clip I would definitely countersink the screws ~ .005" or file the heads a little, or both.

Fred
 
May be better to recess them a notch than to file the heads. That might make them strip out too easy for the wrench needed.

I hate permanent modification but unless I wanted to stock a smaller screw size and buy the taps and all I need to use those nothing else could be done for those I don't think. I doubt I'll do a lot of these models to be honest with you. Threading is one of my least favorite jobs truth be told. Its risky everytime you do it unless you have a professional set up which I don't have yet but do have on my wish list. I'm hoping to snag a tapmatic for a good price on ebay one day but so far someone that is a better sniper than I am gets in there ahead of me everytime.

I've lost three now that way.

STR
 
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